Luke OT lightsaber project, the build begins

l33tLX

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RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
What an amazing day.

Finally have all the parts to start building what I consider to be the most accurate versions I can of Luke's sabers from each of the original films

I'll detail each step of the build as I go, but here's what I'm starting with.

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Very nice start! I'm starting with a similar setup, just out of curiosity what was the last part you got? For me it was the calculator. Can't wait to see your builds!
 
this is going to be a great thread!! loving the vintage parts!!


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I did a build of all of the Graflex family, I guarantee you'll have fun doing this! Who's Luke ROTJ is that? Anakin Starkillers?
 
Wow, nice collection. Looking forward to your builds.
I notice you have two New York Folmers. Sweet.

I have two vintage NY versions but have been unable to find a New York version for the ESB. Those are so hard to find!
 
Wow, nice collection. Looking forward to your builds.
I notice you have two New York Folmers. Sweet.

I have two vintage NY versions but have been unable to find a New York version for the ESB. Those are so hard to find!

It gets worse... not only do you need to find a "New York' but you also have to hope the stamping is in a favorable spot as well.

I have two... but the bottom stamping for the pristine one I have couldn't be in a worse spot :cry
 
It gets worse... not only do you need to find a "New York' but you also have to hope the stamping is in a favorable spot as well.

I have two... but the bottom stamping for the pristine one I have couldn't be in a worse spot :cry

That blows although it's a nice problem to have. I'll take that less than pristine one off your hands.;)
 
It gets worse... not only do you need to find a "New York' but you also have to hope the stamping is in a favorable spot as well.

I have two... but the bottom stamping for the pristine one I have couldn't be in a worse spot :cry


I wonder how how hard it is to pop the bottom out of place and resituate it into the right place. Might try it with a 2-cell bottom and let you know how it goes.

Edit, looks like it is brazed in place. Not sure it would be so easy. Would either end up denting part of it or discoloring it if heated up.
 
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Very nice start! I'm starting with a similar setup, just out of curiosity what was the last part you got? For me it was the calculator. Can't wait to see your builds!

The most recent thing I acquired was the v2 from anakin starkiller most recent run

Gino I'm hoping to get the funds together to get in on your run, I have used your grips exclusively on the 6 previous Graflexes I've done
 
Finally found some time to get started on the trio of Luke sabers.

The plan is to go through them chronologically so let's start with A New Hope.
Parts Needed: Graflex 3-Cell Flash Handle, Exactra Bubble Strip, Grip material and a D-ring.
These builds are thesis sabers of a sort so I'll explain exactly why I've chosen each part used.

The Graflex

The 3-Cell used for Luke's hilt in ANH has some very unique features to it that differentiate it from a lot of it's 3-Cell brethren. There aren't many good close up photos out there and the ones that do exist are usually cropped from a much larger photo. Therefore some things can be very clearly made out and other things I took an exhaustively calculated guess at.

These pictures are what I base a lot of my choices on

Episode_4_LukesToePic.jpganhluke.jpg

Features I see here as being very clear to identify for the 3-Cell are first off that it is essentially complete, the only things missing as far as functioning camera parts are the reflector and the small set screw and nut from the clamp that secures the top tube in place. The red button has long knurling. The "beer" tab and rivet are visible. The bulb clamp("bunny ears"), brass pins, connectors, and set screw are present. The clamp's lever has a plating that is shiny and reflective and the pin is skinny and doesn't have a machined head, appearing slightly darker than the lever itself. Finally on the base of the bottom tube where the end disk is attached to the tube the lip is very thin.

A little less clear to me from these pictures is the glass eye. It appears to have a deep recess to it but the exact angles are harder to make out than the other details I've listed.
I have to go to this picture to help make a decision on what eye to look for. Still not very clear but it does help when looking for the right finish on the glass eye. I see a more matte machine finish than shiny reflective plating and no smooth radius on the bezel.
star-wars-anh-luke-lightsaber-promo-2-x600.jpg

With the details listed previously in mind I acquired this Graflex

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All parts present and accounted for and it hits all the key features I can make out in the reference photos. Thin lipped bottom tube, shiny clamp lever with the correct pin, long knurled red button, and the glass eye has a deep recess and straight angle bezel.

Next up will be Grip, Clip, D-Ring, and Bubble selection.
 
Time to find some parts for the 3-Cell

Grips

Episode_4_LukesToePic grips.jpg

Reference photos show the saber as having seven grips around the bottom tube with the ends cut at an angle, made from a black T-track material. I have never seen a vintage part that exactly matches what appears to be on the prop, but I have seen some that come close. Usually described as sliding door track, and made of plastic. The t-track has been called many different things over the years, like windshield wiper blades and most recently by Roger Christian as a type of car weatherstripping, but as research from the great people here over the years has concluded they are most certainly a plastic material. Being that there isn't a current reliable source for vintage t-track I turned to the aftermarket.There are several sources for saber grips but as far as I know only two that make them out of plastic, Roy and Gino. I have used several sets of Gino's grips in the past based on their reputation and the research put into making them so that is what I've selected for this build. I also own a set of Roy's grips and they are top notch, you can't go wrong either way, with the slightest of an edge to Gino.

D-ring and clip
anhluke d ring.jpg

There is no known reference photo that clearly shows what the profile of the clip is and how it is attached to the bottom of the hilt, it can only be guessed at. The size and shape of the D-ring are ,luckily, fairy easy to surmise. When looking at vintage parts to try and find something that would work, pointed out by member Sym-Cha, and that is the D-ring and clip attaching handles and on the sides of some Graflex camera cases. Although not attached to the case the same way it is on the lightsaber, the size and shape of the D-ring, it's finish, the finish of the clip, and the profile of the clip when removed from the case and folded over, look incredibly like what is present on the prop. I have been looking for a couple of years now to try and acquire one and the only cases listed for sale that have the proper ring and clip have been listings with full camera kits and garnered $500+ price tags, a bit outside my budget for a D-ring.
Now I'm not saying that I know for sure that the case clip and ring are what's on the movie prop but I think it' a pretty high probability. It could also be a custom made part by the production team. And with that said I'll bring up the best option for an aftermarket part, and what I'll be using in the mean time while I wait for an affordable vintage part.
Designed by Sym-Cha and sold by Roy I think its the most accurate reproduction piece available.
If anyone has a line on a vintage D-ring and clip I would be forever in your debt.

Exactra Bubble display

Finally we get to the bubble strip found in the clamp of the Graflex. Here is a known vintage part, found inside Texas Instruments Exactra 19, Exactra 20, and TI-2000 calculators. It is a 7-digit bubble magnifier strip for displaying the numbers on the calculator.
Here's where it gets tricky. There are two disticnt types of strip to be aware of when acquiring a bubble strip or calculator. First there's frosted with all round bubbles, second is clear with small flats on the sides of the bubbles. There is also a difference in how the two types of strips are mounted to the circuit board in the calculator, as well as their overall profile.
Here's a wonderful thread detailing the different calculator bubbles http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=73545

Now which is used on Luke's saber? Back to the reference photos. The clearest shot of the bubble strip is in the infamous toe pic.
Episode_4_LukesToePic.jpg
Distinguishing between bubbles with or without the flats on the side is difficult, but I do think I see a frosted backing, especially when I compare what each version looks like in a Graflex clamp. Furthemore, the frosted bubbles have a rectangle underneath where the calculator display fit into, the clear does not, and I believe you can make this rectangle out in the toe pic here which I've highlighted, poorly, and can be seen in the previously mentioned bubble discussion thread.
toe pic bubble rectangle.jpg

Once again there is no way to know for sure which bubble strip was used, this is just my best educated guess.

Assembly time!
 
for informations sake Todds Costumes also offers T track. It's similar to Roy's but with an asymmetrical profile, much like the T track on Boba Fett's rifle.

I love the documentation too, i'll be following this thread!

Also, that toe pic, it looks like the bubble strip is slid underneath the clamp ridges, and it looks a LOT wider than a normal bubble strip. Unless it's slid all the way to one side, its just confusing to me whenever I look at it.
 
for informations sake Todds Costumes also offers T track. It's similar to Roy's but with an asymmetrical profile, much like the T track on Boba Fett's rifle.

I love the documentation too, i'll be following this thread!

Also, that toe pic, it looks like the bubble strip is slid underneath the clamp ridges, and it looks a LOT wider than a normal bubble strip. Unless it's slid all the way to one side, its just confusing to me whenever I look at it.

Good call. I was unaware of todd's costumes t-track offering
 
Great thesis write-up sofar :) In my thread you mentioned above ... lonepigeon said that the non-frosted bubblestrip was most likely used for ANH. And have you seen my latest thread about all available kind of T-tracks and my latest discovery vintage black plastic T-tracks with the most accurate-looking center rib profile to date?

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=253797

Chaim
 
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