Leather Work?

ERen89

Active Member
I am planning to learn leather work for the first time to make leather belt pouches for a star wars build I am making. Though since I am new to leather, it is a head ache trying to find which kind to use because there are so many types. I have narrowed down it needs to be shoulder leather 4-5oz. But what type? Also does anyone know where to get leather the cheapest way possible? I have been looking at Tandy Leather and I know leather is not a cheap material, but it would look as if I would have to spend at least $70. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
I am no leather expert, but if all you are making is a pouch, you might try repurposing leather from an old coat or something...you could even get a cheaper one from a resale shop.
 
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That's definitely an option but anything I have would not be thick enough and be too flimsy. The type of pouches I want to make are made of the thicker type of leather that you can form nicely
 
For my nieces Rey costume I had her pick up a Oak-Leaf Side from Tandy.

From that I made the backpack, belt, wrist cuff, a holster and pouches for my work belt and a few notebook (Field Note) covers and still have leather left over for more projects.

If you get on their mailing list, they have deals several times a month on assorted types of leather.
They also have the Outlet site that sells scraps.
 
I am planning to learn leather work for the first time to make leather belt pouches for a star wars build I am making. Though since I am new to leather, it is a head ache trying to find which kind to use because there are so many types. I have narrowed down it needs to be shoulder leather 4-5oz. But what type? Also does anyone know where to get leather the cheapest way possible? I have been looking at Tandy Leather and I know leather is not a cheap material, but it would look as if I would have to spend at least $70. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

You're gonna pay a bit in tools and materials to make those two pouches. It might be worth it to just buy them already made if possible.

Otherwise...
You are probably looking for "veg-tan" leather. A single shoulder should be about $30-40 at Tandy's.

When you say leather that forms well, is it to make a molded pouch kind of like this?

1451080144_6c933ccd22.jpg

This is called "wet-molding" and as you can see, that requires making a couple wood forms. So you need all the tools and skills to do that first.

The leather part is relatively simple.

Soak the leather in hot water.
Gently form it over the wood by hand.
Place the cut-out board over the top and let it dry.

You can work the edges in various ways after you trim it to size leaving them raw or burnish them.

The stitching will require tools to puncture the leather, string, and needles.

Any hardware like buttons or snaps will take their own setting tools.

And you will need to dye them and seal them unless you want natural colored leather.

Also, wetting leather and letting it dry will remove all the oil from it. So you'll need to condition it. Stay away from pure neatsfoot oil.
 
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Look on ebay for offcuts, there are plenty pouch size pieces for far less than $70. Look for veg tan, doesn't have to be shoulder. Around 2mm would be best for a folded pouch design (T shape template - this will be the easiest way forward). Combination tan like chromexcel is great for pouches but it is really expensive, but if you can find a small piece on ebay go ahead. It breaks in easily and looks old/used easily.

You need a deadly sharp craft knife, scalpel type thing. Cutting mat. Something for stitch marking and making stitching holes, 2 sturdy needles and some waxed polyester/nylon or linen thread. Sam browne stud for the closing.

Look up some youtube videos, pouches are easy.

Wet moulding like above is more advanced and requires more tools/workshop etc, but still watch youtube videos for that as well.

If you are really into it, I also recommend buying the cheapest WW2 ammunition pouch you can on ebay to study. They are always so simply made, due to the mass production required. You can make your own copycat template and just copy it. I practiced by copying the Star Wars famous swiss pouches (Luke's belt) and British bandolier pouches (Jawas/Tuskens)


2mm to 2.5mm leather is good for pouches, when formed into the pouch shape it is rigid. Too thick and it looks goofy and doesn't form properly. Sorry, I forgot the Oz measurements a while back but you can cross reference yourself!


P.S. if you can tie shoelaces, you can saddle stitch!
 
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Also, wetting leather and letting it dry will remove all the oil from it. So you'll need to condition it. Stay away from pure neatsfoot oil.

The head curator for Rawlings baseball gloves told me to throw my bottle of Neatsfoot Oil out when I asked him what was best to recondition leather with. He recommended Lanolin Oil. You can get 100% pure, medical grade, safe for babies to eat it out of the tube, Lanolin Oil in a product called Lansinoh. It's available in the mothers/babies isles at CVS, RiteAid, Walgreens, etc. Look for a lavendar colored box. Having difficulty finding it yourself, ask the pharmacist where the nipplecream is.

I used it to restore my baseball gloves from when I was little, and darned if they don't look new now having done it! Applied it to my new glove to soften and protect it and it works like a charm! If it's leather, and I own it, it gets the Lansinoh treatment.
 
The head curator for Rawlings baseball gloves told me to throw my bottle of Neatsfoot Oil out when I asked him what was best to recondition leather with. He recommended Lanolin Oil. You can get 100% pure, medical grade, safe for babies to eat it out of the tube, Lanolin Oil in a product called Lansinoh. It's available in the mothers/babies isles at CVS, RiteAid, Walgreens, etc. Look for a lavendar colored box. Having difficulty finding it yourself, ask the pharmacist where the nipplecream is.

I used it to restore my baseball gloves from when I was little, and darned if they don't look new now having done it! Applied it to my new glove to soften and protect it and it works like a charm! If it's leather, and I own it, it gets the Lansinoh treatment.

Neatsfoot oil basically destroys the leather fibers. There are some mixtures that can work okay, but I just assume stay away since you can find other things.

I've been looking at making my own cleaner-conditioner from coconut oil.
 
Neatsfoot oil basically destroys the leather fibers.

Yep, that's pretty much what he said too.

He threw in a little pitch for Rawlings new (at the time) Glovolium with Lanolin, but told me that if I could find pure Lanolin Oil to use that as my first choice.

Vanson Leathers sell a "balm" for their jackets and racesuits that's more or less vegetable wax and animal fat. Their leathers last forever if they're taken care of properly.
 
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Depending on what look you are going for, most types of grease or oils could work. If you're after the "lived in" look of most Star Wars props, simply fondling you pouch after having done some car or bicycle repairs or gardening will do wonders. The best grease is the natural grease from you hands.

If you have access to a gas of electric grill, there's usually some sort of grease pan at the bottom. Not only is it chock full of free (and excellently workable) grease, the grease itself us usually black with carbon residue which will ad a nice and very authentic hue to leather. The wear of time on leather us a combination of dirt, UV-radiation or heat and oxygenation. The grease fro a grill has already gone through a very similar process due to the heat.
 
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