Latex Painting Advice

sulaco1967

New Member
Hi guys would like some advice. Have finished latexiing expanding foam feet and after reading all the threads thought aye lets paint the buggers.

I took a step back though and thought I'd try testing the process first and latexed up a spare claw. I applied the pros aid and airbrushed some tamiya color as a test. Next morning picked it up in anticipation and bent the claw slightly and it the paint cracked big time.

Now I'm thinking probably wrong acrylic to use for test and have a fresh latexed claw for test number 2. I do have the liquitex basics set of paint and Windsor and newtons galeria set of acrylics and plan to try both. Any suggestions on using these would be fantastic. I do want to use the airbrush with these, do you think I should put some latex in to the mix?

The full painting thing is out my comfort zone and my pred budget as it stands us zero for the forseable future. Could anybody recommend a pred paint scheme based on my complete lack of confidence in mixing colours. My pred is I suppose more wolf and has leather armour and backpack and gauntlets are shades of brown.

Here is the link for my w.i.p

http://www.thehunterslair.com/topic/28800-sulaco1967-wip-first-build/page__st__25#entry355253

Any help would very appreciated

Cheers

Sean
 
Hey, I actually mix the pros aide in with acrylic paints and a drop of water. I later seal it with Perma wet after it dries. It works everytime.
 
All I can do is share my own experience using acrylic paints on latex. No matter how I mixed it, I couldn't get it to work correctly. The acrylic I was using dried and there was zero flexibility. I ended up using FW inks, and had great results. I just got done latexing my torso, and ended up mixing latex paint in with the raw latex to darken it up, and it worked great. I would try thinning down the latex with distilled water, and tinting it with some acrylic to see how it comes out. The problem I ran into was my AB didn't like spraying the latex until it was so thin it was worthless. My final combination ended up being 1 base coat of pros-aide, then layering on the different colors of FW ink that was mixed with a small amount of water and more pros-aide. I then applied 3 coats of permawet and it seems to be holding up well. I would do a little more experimenting to find out what works best. Hope this has been helpful.

Brian
 
Thanks grothloch and wonko advice much appreciated.... Just going to try some test pieces now.

Would still like some advice on a skin colour I anybody can give me some pointers.

Cheers

Sean
 
Before I painted my head, I studied a bunch of pics to get a general feel for the coloration and markings. I discovered that it's basically one solid off white(ish) color with layers of shading, and a bunch of different sized/colored spots and "blotches". I used mostly red earth, burnt umber, and black on mine (FW ink colors). It came out a little darker than I wanted, but doesn't look too bad for my first go around. The thing I learned right away was to layer the different colors , then go back in and shade the areas that needed darkening. I don't think there's any wrong way to do it, it's just how I ended up doing it. Break out the AB and practice different techniques to find what works for you.

Brian
 
I also have found with a passhe air brush i use a larger needle head and use small amounts of acrilics i use enamels whenever possible . and a little pros ade and a few drops of water . that always works for me .
 
generally i used the createx airbrush colours to paint latex, they're flexible , you can also mix latex and colour but you lost the possibility to use the airbrush. after rthat tehre're some final clear flexible paint to do the effect of the glossy skin when i usedthe normal acrylic there hadn't enough flexiblity so they work badly. however what is teh prose-aide?, i know only the special glue called prose-aide taht i used for the prostetic protsis for the make-up...
 
I like to use rubber cement paints. They are more flexible than the latex, so they never crack. They are cheaper than the prosaide method. They require no sealer. The bond better to the latex.
 
I like to use rubber cement paints. They are more flexible than the latex, so they never crack. They are cheaper than the prosaide method. They require no sealer. The bond better to the latex.

Hi I just replied to another post of yours about rubber cement...

http://www.thehunterslair.com/topic/28941-painting-bare-latex-are-these-steps-correct/#entry357563

Any advice most appreciated

Cheers

Sean
 
Rubber Cement paints are not something you can buy, you need to mix them yourself, using a high quality rubber cement as the base. The Elmer's stuff in the picture is alright, but the one I like best is Barge Rubber Cement TF. Comes in a teal can. I feel that the quality is better. Best Test is alright too. Then you thin with Naphtha, although in California they banned Naphtha, so I am using Industrial Coating Maintainance Thinner, and you tint with a touch of artist oil paints.
 
an other way is hwver to use professional airtbrush colours like createx over the raw latex, asnd after they dried cover with the mix-plast finally clear paint. The Mix-plast is a a finally cover-paint clear based on rubber-cement.
 
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