Krylon Fusion paint question

motman241

Well-Known Member
Originally posted by SithLord7768@Feb 9 2006, 05:11 PM
im not sure either on the clear coat compatibility...did you have no problems and if so what did you use for the clear coat?
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As long as the Fusion is cured, any of the Krylon clear coats (Triple Thick Gloss, Glossy, Satin, and Flat) all have worked well for me.

Again, though, I clear coat my stuff to guard against the aditional weathering coming off (not the Fusion coming off). Plus, I don't want anything coming off on any of my costumes (the props I make are usually for costuming purposes).
 

matt1466

New Member
The guy I talked to at Krylon said that they only recommended using the Minwax Polycrylic as a topcoat. Not sure why but I'm guessing its because the Polycrylic is water-based.

My experience has been to use light coats, allow it to dry fully, sand lightly and topcoat again until you get the finish you want.

Matt
 

Fetthunter

Sr Member
Originally posted by motman241@Feb 8 2006, 11:28 AM
Fusion was made specifically to work its way into plastic. You shouldn't need a primer if you use it on plastics.

I painted my first trooper blaster with Fusion, and when I had it in my holster, I would get black scuff marks on my armor. Nothing ever showed up on the gun, but I clear coated the E-11 so nothing else came off.
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It contains a solvent that actually softens the top layer of plastic that you spray it on. It allows the paint to bond without a primer.
 

JDFett

Active Member
i also spoke to someone at krylon via email and he said not to use the clear gloss arylic as it contains more solvents in it and may cause the fusion to bubble or lift...he also stated the minwax as an option but stated that buffing the minwax or the fusion directly may leave scratches due to it being made from softer resins
 

JDFett

Active Member
Originally posted by SithLord7768@Feb 10 2006, 02:04 AM
i also spoke to someone at krylon via email and he said not to use the clear gloss arylic as it contains more solvents in it and may cause the fusion to bubble or lift...he also stated the minwax as an option but stated that buffing the minwax or the fusion directly may leave scratches due to it being made from softer resins
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DO NOT...I REPEAT..DO NOT use minwax polycrylic water based for your clear coat...the spray pattern splatters and gives a nasty orange peel look to it. I tried at least four coats and a sanding inbetween with 400 grit to smooth and it never came out like i wanted. another bad side effect...its water based and im not sure if its different when fully cured..but after about 3 hours of waiting..water turned the clear into blue spots everywhere that dried clear again...unless you want to get caught in a rainstorm as a blue vader i would say stay away from this stuff...I also was able to salvage my project after almost eight hours by wetsanding...took the entire four coats of clear off the painted surface with very little effort...this stuff is not a good choice...go get it cleared at an autobody shop you would be better off and wont get frustrated as i did.
 

matt1466

New Member
Sorry about your problems SithLord. I had good luck with the Polycrylic. :(



Originally posted by SithLord7768+Feb 14 2006, 07:51 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SithLord7768 @ Feb 14 2006, 07:51 AM)</div>
<!--QuoteBegin-SithLord7768
@Feb 10 2006, 02:04 AM
i also spoke to someone at krylon via email and he said not to use the clear gloss arylic as it contains more solvents in it and may cause the fusion to bubble or lift...he also stated the minwax as an option but stated that buffing the minwax or the fusion directly may leave scratches due to it being made from softer resins
[snapback]1180590[/snapback]​
DO NOT...I REPEAT..DO NOT use minwax polycrylic water based for your clear coat...the spray pattern splatters and gives a nasty orange peel look to it. I tried at least four coats and a sanding inbetween with 400 grit to smooth and it never came out like i wanted. another bad side effect...its water based and im not sure if its different when fully cured..but after about 3 hours of waiting..water turned the clear into blue spots everywhere that dried clear again...unless you want to get caught in a rainstorm as a blue vader i would say stay away from this stuff...I also was able to salvage my project after almost eight hours by wetsanding...took the entire four coats of clear off the painted surface with very little effort...this stuff is not a good choice...go get it cleared at an autobody shop you would be better off and wont get frustrated as i did.
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