Kevin's scatter build thread

[kevin926]

you truly are a machine! for the price, and that paint job thats a heck of a deal! i really like how you did the copper base. as for the blue i am so scared to try something like that. did you use a air brush for the emitters?

i really need to invest in one. i was actually at michaels the other day, i know you said you have worked with air brushes for years, is this a good entry level one?

http://www.michaels.com/badger-model-350-airbrush/10219099.html#q=airbrush&start=6

i cant believe how expensive the little pumps are... i was wondering if i could use my regular pancake compresses and use a valve to achieve the correct psi

thanks danny. 15 dollars is the total cost. Already had the paint.

As far as the airbrush goes, that's not bad for price and it's an easy gun to clean. I used my small compressor for a long time before I bought the mini compressor. It's just noise that makes the difference. The mini is so quiet you don't even know it's going if you have a radio on or talking.

As far as the finish, the only spray was the brass base. The rest is all by hand.

 

[Halliwax]

thanks danny. 15 dollars is the total cost. Already had the paint.

As far as the airbrush goes, that's not bad for price and it's an easy gun to clean. I used my small compressor for a long time before I bought the mini compressor. It's just noise that makes the difference. The mini is so quiet you don't even know it's going if you have a radio on or talking.

As far as the finish, the only spray was the brass base. The rest is all by hand.

are you going to add the blue? if so would you use a air brush for that?

 

[kevin926]

are you going to add the blue? if so would you use a air brush for that?

I don't think so, I should be able to drybrush in a little more blue to the ends.

airbrushing has its place. mostly for solid clean smooth finishes or base coats that need to be smooth and uniform. hand brushing for me is not painting. you can actually touch my projects while I'm painting them because the paint is drying while I'm painting. not to be confused with drybrushing which is a totally different application. my first coats are always sprayed.

 

[Halliwax]

I don't think so, I should be able to drybrush in a little more blue to the ends.

airbrushing has its place. mostly for solid clean smooth finishes or base coats that need to be smooth and uniform. hand brushing for me is not painting. you can actually touch my projects while I'm painting them because the paint is drying while I'm painting. not to be confused with drybrushing which is a totally different application. my first coats are always sprayed.

wow i thought for sure thats how you would achieve that burned stainless look! see you learn something new everyday!

 

[kevin926]

This one's finished. Mostly all drybrushing with the exception of the brass base coat.

Back to Kylo's bucket. Just about finished. The final dull clear coat is drying. As promised, here are a few shots of my lining job. Used the same material from the sandtrooper bucket and same techniques
kinda difficult to be really detailed here because it's mostly feel and lining things up more than anything else. First I layed in the fabric and used a white crayon to mark my cut. BE sure to leave plenty of over hang on each side.
Once cut I lay in place. Didn't take any shots of gluing because I needed my hands (lol) basically you just lift one section at a time and put some glue on it, then push it or pad it down. Keep going until the entire section is attached. Don't worry about over hang because you can cut it off later
second verse same as the first! Just do the same with your next section.
You will see a circle left out at the crown of your helmet. I messed up and didn't take a picture but all you need to do now is cut a circle and lay it in place. Again, be sure to lift one section of the circle at a time and glue,. Tomorrow once the helmet dries, I will show you the inside finished

Sorry, I used a hot glue gun. This is great for removing the material if you have to.
I hope that helps

 

[kevin926]

Here is a finished Kylo build. Total for helmet and saber, 45.00 dollars with about 5 or 6 dollars in extra parts and supplies. I also have a cool display idea for it. I plan on getting a foam head sold at hobby lobby for a couple dollars and putting the same material I used for the inside lining to act as a hood. The helmet finish was copied from the anovos release and the saber finish is a prop shop influence I trimmed the eyes with plastic screen covered with a very thin see through black material similar to panty hose.



I think I like it. I definitely like the price!

 

[kevin926]

here is the inside picture I promised.

Now it's a toss up, Han's DL44 or the boba bucket. We will see how I feel in the morning. Lol

 

[Halliwax]

kevin, i really like the idea of the cloth inside the helmet. this is really fitting to me for kylo ren. like thats what would be inside in real life (if star wars was real) i also agree with you, the blue on the tips really gives it a more realistic approach. "it makes the saber pop" is what comes to my mind

that little display you got going there, you got me now wanting the same thing! lol

those blue rips were dry brushed?!

you need to start making little videos for us :thumbsup

 

[kevin926]

kevin, i really like the idea of the cloth inside the helmet. this is really fitting to me for kylo ren. like thats what would be inside in real life (if star wars was real) i also agree with you, the blue on the tips really gives it a more realistic approach. "it makes the saber pop" is what comes to my mind

that little display you got going there, you got me now wanting the same thing! lol

those blue rips were dry brushed?!

you need to start making little videos for us :thumbsup

Thanks sir, yeah, not bad for the low cost. The material added as a hood was kind of an accident. I was preparing the material when a piece landed over the helmet and I started playing around and decided to have a make shift hood. I like it.

Very kind words on my painting. Thank you. If you really think I should show my technique, I can. Never really thought about it till now.

 

[kevin926]

Dl44 it is. I like the idea of a few of these being worked on at the same time so it becomes more of a group build. We can bounce ideas off each other and see potential issues.

Like most I have seen, here is a denix with todds kit. (Still waiting for the scope) . I also started to mark the mod areas with white crayon based off the reference photos.



Time to break it down

 

[kevin926]

So I striped it down and busted out the dremel. Filed down some of the parts,and for a test run, I hit it with a sanding sponge just to see how difficult removing the finish would be. I must have a thin finish on mine because in only a few minutes, I have most of it off. I think it will be easier to just modify one section at a time. Also I added the screws in that hold the scope mount. Time for the game so it won't be till later today that I get back in the shop. Go Bucs! (I hope)


the screws have a nice fit, however I still think I will use thread lock to give them that extra support.

 

[Halliwax]

So I striped it down and busted out the dremel. Filed down some of the parts,and for a test run, I hit it with a sanding sponge just to see how difficult removing the finish would be. I must have a thin finish on mine because in only a few minutes, I have most of it off. I think it will be easier to just modify one section at a time. Also I added the screws in that hold the scope mount. Time for the game so it won't be till later today that I get back in the shop. Go Bucs! (I hope)

View attachment 682518View attachment 682519View attachment 682520View attachment 682521
the screws have a nice fit, however I still think I will use thread lock to give them that extra support.

that paint came off mine real easy too. i run into a issue acouple days ago with pitying... i dont know what im going to do. may just glazing putty it in, or strip it all down and use the dremel with some sanding stones

have you decided on what color your going to use? and are you doing a ANH version or TFA?

 

[kevin926]

Going ANH. It's hard to tell true colors off pictures. What is the correct color? I can see in my denix there are pits for sure. However they are filled already from the original finish, so I'm not sanding them down. I will just finish over them


Quick half time question. This one is bothering me a little. The barrel assembly from todd is pretty wide verses the denix barrel. Is normal and where do I cut my denix?

 

[Halliwax]

Going ANH. It's hard to tell true colors off pictures. What is the correct color? I can see in my denix there are pits for sure. However they are filled already from the original finish, so I'm not sanding them down. I will just finish over them


Quick half time question. This one is bothering me a little. The barrel assembly from todd is pretty wide verses the denix barrel. Is normal and where do I cut my denix?
View attachment 682560

this is from his site
http://darkenergycreations.com/ANH-Instructions.pdf

but i think thats for his older barrel that just slid over the denix barrel after you would sand off the denix sight... hmmm i did some searching with no luck yet

 

[kevin926]

Thanks, but I did find it. Pedro is doing the same build as mine. I had to cut the entire barrel off, yikes and scary!

Now I think I'm just going to re-tap these threads to 7/16 so I don't need to go out and buy another tap and die set. These may be metric.

Nope, not enough meat to go to 7/16. The thread area will be too thin. Dang it, now I have to go buy more tools. Poop!

 

[kevin926]

What color is the ANH dl44? Do I use AB or no?

Thanks in advance
Kevin

 

[Halliwax]

Thanks, but I did find it. Pedro is doing the same build as mine. I had to cut the entire barrel off, yikes and scary!
View attachment 682579
Now I think I'm just going to re-tap these threads to 7/16 so I don't need to go out and buy another tap and die set. These may be metric.

Nope, not enough meat to go to 7/16. The thread area will be too thin. Dang it, now I have to go buy more tools. Poop!

What color is the ANH dl44? Do I use AB or no?

Thanks in advance
Kevin

kevin do you have a better picture of where you exactly cut the barrel? just so i can save it for future use, or if someone else asks this question?

as for the color, and i am no expert what so ever, but i believe ANH dl-44 is gun blue.

 

[kevin926]

kevin do you have a better picture of where you exactly cut the barrel? just so i can save it for future use, or if someone else asks this question?

as for the color, and i am no expert what so ever, but i believe ANH dl-44 is gun blue.

Sure, I can take better shots of the cut barrel.
By blue, do you mean I need to use the bluing stuff. Also I believe I was told I can get this stuff at a gun shop. Or would it be cheaper else where.?

I still need to go buy a larger tap..

 

[Halliwax]

Sure, I can take better shots of the cut barrel.
By blue, do you mean I need to use the bluing stuff. Also I believe I was told I can get this stuff at a gun shop. Or would it be cheaper else where.?

I still need to go buy a larger tap..

in my hast i ordered some off amazon. when i got it i learned there is a whole process. with a google search i learned that my dicks sporting goods in the town next door had it on the shelf. so i went out there and grabbed the complete kit

Tom just did this to his muppet blaster, to achieve the look he wanted he says he coated it 8 times

again kevin, i am no expert. by my eyes it looks like a oily blackish blue color in the promo photos. so that leads me to believe its gun blue, i could be completely wrong. im more of a sabers gun then blasters. so before you order or buy anything i would seek out further advice, i dont want to lead you in the wrong direction

 

[kevin926]

I think I have a few of these stores near me. Thanks, should be fun.