Is there a "bad" super glue?

[dropshipbob]

So I'm tired of spending $5 on the hobby shop glue and decided to look for something cheaper. I assume super glue is all the same?

I ended up buying a 4-pack of some no-name glue in a black and yellow package, on the back it simply states "manufactured for Wal-Mart".

Are all super glues indeed the same?

Has anyone ever bought any that didn't work?

 

[exoray]

I don't know if I would call any of them bad, they all have unique qualities...

If you are simply looking for a glue to glue two flat solid, non-flexible, nonporous surfaces together almost any flavor will work...

But, if you require a slower setting time, filling of voids, flexibility or some other unique property then the special versions usually do a better job...

 

[Great_Bizarro]

Only if you pick your nose while using it:confused. I have used the cheap stuff with good results so far.

 

[Lynn TXP 0369]

All I ever use is the Walmart stuff, I never had a problem in years.

Lynn

 

[Hecubus114]

I've almost found the cheaper stuff to always work better...

 

[Jumpin Jax]

Stuck to your skin in a bad place. That's the bad stuff.

 

[takevin]

Stuck to your skin in a bad place. That's the bad stuff.

ive used cheap stuff, and the more expensive hobby stuff. No difference i saw, pretty much similar cept drying times in seconds. Only thing the hobby glues have are from thin to thickness glue for drying times.

 

[Lynn TXP 0369]

ive used cheap stuff, and the more expensive hobby stuff. No difference i saw, pretty much similar cept drying times in seconds. Only thing the hobby glues have are from thin to thickness glue for drying times.

Yep, what he said....

Lynn

 

[Gigatron]

Given an equal viscosity, they are all, chemically, the same; cyanoacrylate.

For specialty purposes, there are thinner versions (for quicker dryng, or reaching tight areas), thicker versions (for slower drying times) and versions that require a seperate accelerator (instant cures when combined).

But, having said all that, the 69 cent tube of nail glue from CVS is no different than the regular, $5 stuff from the local hobby shop.

-Fred

 

[yt]

Has anyone ever bought any that didn't work?

I have yet to find one that works!:angry
Seriously the only thing I ever get bonded is my fingers! :cry

 

[rmschneider104]

I've experienced the same thing... used all sorts of different brands and price points over the years and have found them all to be effectively the same.

Given an equal viscosity, they are all, chemically, the same; cyanoacrylate.

For specialty purposes, there are thinner versions (for quicker dryng, or reaching tight areas), thicker versions (for slower drying times) and versions that require a seperate accelerator (instant cures when combined).

But, having said all that, the 69 cent tube of nail glue from CVS is no different than the regular, $5 stuff from the local hobby shop.

-Fred

 

[SgtFang]

Hehe, go to a forensics website and buy it by the quart! :lol

The big bottle usually comes with a couple droppers and would last you a few years! :thumbsup

-Sarge

 

[megaweapon]

Well, I would suggest avoiding this glue for delicate projects. You're supposed to add water to the parts prior to bonding. I tried using this on parts of my Darth Vader chestbox. Well, as the glue started to set it foamed and expanded which meant essentially having to force remove, sand, repaint, and use a different glue. Big waste of time and it caused me to damage the parts I had to separate.

 

[Helmetman]

Personally, I have found the cheaper ones never bond correctly. Or they bond immediately but the bond doesn't hold. I only use make name Superglue and it works fine.

Might be a UK thing though as alot of you favour the cheaper stuff.

Steve

 

[Gigatron]

Well, I would suggest avoiding this glue for delicate projects. You're supposed to add water to the parts prior to bonding. I tried using this on parts of my Darth Vader chestbox. Well, as the glue started to set it foamed and expanded which meant essentially having to force remove, sand, repaint, and use a different glue. Big waste of time and it caused me to damage the parts I had to separate.

CA accelerant is just 90% deionized/purified water. What would cause it to foam is beyond me. Maybe something in the tap water.

Personally, I have found the cheaper ones never bond correctly. Or they bond immediately but the bond doesn't hold. I only use make name Superglue and it works fine.

Might be a UK thing though as alot of you favour the cheaper stuff.

Steve

Shouldn't make a difference as they should all be the exact same stuff.




Superglue or any CA for that matter should all have great pull strength but terrible shear strength. Simply put, you can't pull them apart, but you should be able to just knock them apart by either twisting or just hitting it from the side.

-Fred

 

[dropshipbob]

Everyone, thank you for your replies. I guess mine wasn't a bad investment for $1, worth trying out.

 

[Helmetman]

Shouldn't make a difference as they should all be the exact same stuff.

I disagree. I think the cheaper ones are the same thing but are watered down versions - hence cheaper - hence they don't work as well as others:thumbsup

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Gigatron]

I disagree. I think the cheaper ones are the same thing but are watered down versions - hence cheaper - hence they don't work as well as others:thumbsup

Just my 2 cents.

if that's the case, then it's a UK thing. I've used cheap nail glue (normally 89 cents, on clearance for 4 for a $1) and have had better luck than with crazy glue, probably the biggest name in the CA industry. I've had bonds so strong that I've had to saw them apart.

-Fred

 

[Noeland]

Well, the materials you're trying to bond together are as important as what kind of bonding agent you use.

Super glue type stuff, I have found, works well as long as it doesn't "melt" or mar the surface of the material. Especially if it's visible seam, you really don't want that super glue stain on there.

I use JB quik, epoxy, or super glue depending on how stubborn the materials are, but JB quik is usually my first choice for resin.
Njc---------

 

[Gigatron]

Well, the materials you're trying to bond together are as important as what kind of bonding agent you use.

Njc---------

That is absolutely true.

For resin, I prefer 5 or 10 minute epoxy. It affords the strongest mechanical bond.

For attaching dissimilar materials (i.e. photo etch to resin), I prefer CA

For styrene, I prefer either testors liquid cement (in the black bottle, not the orange tube), tamiya cement (in the orange bottle) or tenax 7r. They actually melt the styrene and fuse it together. That will give you the absolute strongest bond as the two pieces actually become one.

-Fred