Iron Man servo actuated face plate question

[sakura7642]

YouTube - ‪ironman helmet open test‬‎

 

[rustysprattdesigns]

It is not difficult at all. I have never programmed before, and with the Pololu "Micro Maestro " microcontroller moving your servos is as easy and dragging a slider until it is in the positions you want and saving the pattern. You can still go into the in depth code writing but the sliders work just as well. I was able to get my servo moving in about 10 minutes. Read up the user guide for that microcontroller, it is a lot easier than you might think.

The difficult part is figuring out how to use that one microcontroller to manage your servos, switches, buttons, and leds, then making them all automated and work together. But again, if you read up on it you can figure it out. I've got my servos and leds operating with changing colors and dimmers for power up and power down sequences. I will be wiring in my switches when I start mounting things. I'll have one switch for the faceplate and one for the led eyes. I'll be programming the led's to come on automatically when the faceplate closes and have them turn off whenever it is open.

If anyone does buy this particular microcontroller id be happy to share code with you. I'm using the 6-channel version and for $20 I think it is a deal, much better than trying to solder your own board or building an arduino

Did you buy the Baby Orangutan B328? I didn't see on there where it specifically said servo inputs. Will it say something different? :confused Trying to do my homework on this for when I actually get ready for electronics. And for twenty bucks, that is really awesome.:thumbsup

Thanks Aron.

 

[aron42486]

It's not the baby orangutan, i believe those are larger much more complex controllers. I think you can still use them for this application but it might be overkill. The Maestro series seems to be all you need for this type of project. The smallest one can manage a combo of up to 6 servos or led series. They have larger controllers available if people want more room. If anyone has a full suit they want to make light up and move I'd recommend the larger versions.

I don't really know anything about the other controllers, my focus has been on the maestro and so far it has been working perfectly

 

[Fetts.Sobriquet]

aron42486, you rock.

you're very welcome for that "pointless" post. And you vulturing ideas "isn't helping each other out" BTW...

Dude, I've never held knowledge back. If anyone ever wants to know how I made anything all they've ever had to do is ask. I'm not here as a glory seeker. If someone starts a thread asking how to do something, posting only "I know how but I ain't gunna tell ya, ha!" is kinda messed up. There's about a dozen ways to do this and I was curious how the pros go about it.

 

[rustysprattdesigns]

This is a little more involved than what I am used to. I am familiar with servoes and what not. I have been into rc cars for a long time but they use a receiver to transmit the signal controller to the servo. Once you have the unit programmed does the usb cable have to stay connnected? Or can it run just off of the battery pack itself? Sorry for so many questions. Just trying to understand.

 

[aron42486]

This is a little more involved than what I am used to. I am familiar with servoes and what not. I have been into rc cars for a long time but they use a receiver to transmit the signal controller to the servo. Once you have the unit programmed does the usb cable have to stay connnected? Or can it run just off of the battery pack itself? Sorry for so many questions. Just trying to understand.

It will operate without the usb cable. I've already hooked everything up and unplugged the usb just to test it out, I just don't have my switches wired up yet so I cannot turn it off and on again without plugging it back in. The controller has memory that will remember the coding you send and with a switch wired in, it will execute the code on command.

If you read the first couple pages of the maestro user guide you will notice that you have to do one mod in order to run the unit off one battery pack. But all that is involved is soldering one small wire between 2 terminals.

I know nothing about sensors or IR receivers so if anyone is planning to go wireless with the controls I can't help with that. But if someone does I'd love to have a look at it.

 

[rustysprattdesigns]

So you basically have to wire a switch in an inconspicuos spot a push it to receive the operation of the servo. The switch is what acts as the command? Like a push button or something similar?

 

[aron42486]

Yep, something has to execute the code. Without a switch you have to do it from the program that allows you to send the code. A switch or button will allow you to execute the code while it is not plugged into the computer.

Pololu also sells mini push buttons, which I got. They are tiny and can be hidden well. You get 5 for $1 I think. I also ordered a spare 12" 6-wire cable from them for $1.50, I'm gonna use the wires from that cable to connect my switches.

If you would like to avoid soldering as much as possible, like me, then I definitely recommend buying a spare cable like this, 6x1 24" Cable, and a pack of connectors, Crimp Connector Housings. You can take off the 6x1 connector on the end of the cable and replace it with the 1x1 connectors. Cut the wires in half and you will have 12 wires which can plug and unplug into the microcontroller and the other ends can be mounted to switches, buttons, or whatever other goodies you want to add on.

Keep in mind that the controller is designed to use 26 awg wire. I have not found a local store that carries wire that small. Radioshack's smallest is 24 gauge. The wire might work but the 24 gauge terminals will not. Order the wire and connectors that you need from Pololu along with your other components otherwise you might have to place a second order.

 

[rustysprattdesigns]

I kinda skimmed through the user manual. I didn't see what type of battery was needed for this unit. I assume it will be some what small. You know what that does some times though.

I really like the Pololu site. The products they offer are very reasonably priced.

 

[aron42486]

I'm using 4 AA-batteries. You need at least 5v to power everything and one AA is around 1.4v. I think I remember reading that a 9v battery can power it as well but it will drain very very quickly.

 

[rustysprattdesigns]

Thanks aron. You have been a great help.

 

[brimst0ne13]

add a resistor to your power line to the 9v battery so that you use the optimum voltage without wasting any. then it wont drain so quick.

 

[Fetts.Sobriquet]

add a resistor to your power line to the 9v battery so that you use the optimum voltage without wasting any. then it wont drain so quick.

Like a 1k ohm? That's what I had planned on using.

 

[Starktech]

YouTube - ‪ironman helmet open test‬‎

really?

 

[aron42486]

Even with a resistor, I have read that 9v batteries just do not have to same capacity as groups of AA and AAA batteries, but if the 9v works for you guys then thats less space to take up in your helmet.

I don't want my circuit to have more than 7v so the 9v is out for me. I wired up my mini push buttons last night and they are working like a charm. My soldering skill is crap along with my 8 year old soldering iron but I at least got everything attached. I'll take pictures next week when I come back in town and post my code for anyone that wants to take a look at it.

 

[Honus]

If anyone is interested in a dedicated all in one Iron Man controller board I'm currently working on a very user friendly programmable controller. There's a thread on it here:
SIWDAT.com - Index page

It won't let me post a direct link- just search for War Machine animatronic cannon.

The controller will allow you to control an animatronic War Machine cannon as well as move things like arm missiles and the helmet faceplate.

Here's a pic of the prototype board-

And here's what the final PCB looks like-

It's an open source project so when I'm done I'll have a complete tutorial with how to build the board plus all the files to have PCBs made as well as all the code.

As a side note, I'm also making arc reactor boards (and hopefully soon a MkII arc reactor kit.

 

[td2253]

Thanks for sharing this Honus! Looking forward to seeing more of your work! Do you have plans to make a MKVI arc reactor?

 

[Honus]

No plans for any other reactors at the moment- just trying to get this one finished up and kitted along with the controller boards. Here's the general view of what the MkII will look like. If all goes well I could definitely see making other versions.

The controller board is super versatile and it's really easy to program. I'll have code available that will let you read inputs from Wii Nunchuck as well as things like bend sensors. My predator cannon setup uses two controller boards that are linked to a sound board. With this setup I can control a full animatronic Predator head, wrist blades, animatronic cannon and up to six sound effects. THere's an early test video of the Pred cannon here:
YouTube - ‪Animatronic Predator cannon test‬‎

 

[Starktech]

ALRIGHT ALREADY! you have me convinced to use a micro controller i just need to figure out the mechanics from hinge to servo.... Curses ! good work guys, And great work Aron42486, i cant wait to see what you got

 

[td2253]

Awesome work Honus! Can't wait to see you integrate your technology with your own War Machine armor.