I need an E-11 scope rail template for Doopydoos full resin kit
- Thread starter Evilboy
- Start date
What do you need a template for? It is just a thin piece of metal notched and bent on one end to fit into the vent hole. Drill a couple of holes to bolt on your scope, and you're done
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
No disrespect but that is okay advice if you just want to slap it together. I've thought about doing the kit as well and wondered about the rail so I understand his desire for a template.
At the very least it should be known how high the rail should sit and how far from the front or back should the first screw hole go for scope?
However, as I look around the web, I conclude that most people are simply guess-timating the rail. There are a lot of detailed tutorial and templates out there but none I have seen give any detailed info on the rail.
At the very least it should be known how high the rail should sit and how far from the front or back should the first screw hole go for scope?
However, as I look around the web, I conclude that most people are simply guess-timating the rail. There are a lot of detailed tutorial and templates out there but none I have seen give any detailed info on the rail.
Last edited:
After looking back on it, I guess my post was a bit half-assery :lol
I definitely see your points about precise measurements, no offense taken
I definitely see your points about precise measurements, no offense taken
Someone could just get some measures off of the MR E-11 for the scope rail.
I just got my resin Doopeydoos E-11 last week.
For the rail I am just going to buy some metal stock from the hardware store, either steel or aluminum. They come in varying widths.
For bonding the metal to resin i will use superglue gel and then for bonding resin to resin either superglue or 2 part epoxy or a combination of both.
I just got my resin Doopeydoos E-11 last week.
For the rail I am just going to buy some metal stock from the hardware store, either steel or aluminum. They come in varying widths.
For bonding the metal to resin i will use superglue gel and then for bonding resin to resin either superglue or 2 part epoxy or a combination of both.
Jonny B
Active Member
Some of these should help:
We started production of our own E-11's a few weeks ago, numbers 1 and 2 already sold on eBay :thumbsup . This is the "Master" set we used for ours, all real parts as you can see.
Notching the Rail and ~hooking~ it in the top vent hole (like in this picture) is one of three "Hero" Styles, and the most common.
The rear is reduced to fit in the Sterlings original rear sight in several ways. The one shown here is, again, the most common one.
One thing is VERY consistant with all E-11's; the placement of the "Battery Pack" or "Energy counter" (depends on who you talk to as to what they call this part), and that is the Hengstler Counter. The face of the HC should line up with the first ring on the Scope (be it a M19, M38, M38A2 or M40).
I hope this helps, if you need anything else, just ask.
We started production of our own E-11's a few weeks ago, numbers 1 and 2 already sold on eBay :thumbsup . This is the "Master" set we used for ours, all real parts as you can see.
Notching the Rail and ~hooking~ it in the top vent hole (like in this picture) is one of three "Hero" Styles, and the most common.
The rear is reduced to fit in the Sterlings original rear sight in several ways. The one shown here is, again, the most common one.
One thing is VERY consistant with all E-11's; the placement of the "Battery Pack" or "Energy counter" (depends on who you talk to as to what they call this part), and that is the Hengstler Counter. The face of the HC should line up with the first ring on the Scope (be it a M19, M38, M38A2 or M40).
I hope this helps, if you need anything else, just ask.
I got mine today and I'm really pleased with how it looks out of the box. It's clean (no flashing to have to clean up) and I could go ahead, glue it up and paint it without really needing to tidy up any casting faults. It's also got a black pipe inside the barrel so that inside looks right and it probably adds strength. Good call.
There's a metal wire that's included for the rear cap. The wire has a white coating, it would have been better if that was black but that's just nitpicking.
The only other thing I would have liked to have seen in the cast is the front sight. That little piece just isn't there and it's a signature item from the Sterling. I thought it would have been included with all the other odds and ends, so many have but not this one.
These are just suggestions to make it the perfect replica, another couple are the inclusion of the coiled wires and a spring for the barrel.
Can anyone help with advice on what to use for the wires and spring or do I leave out the spring? Would a spring have been used in a blaster from a galaxy far far away?
All advice and help will be gratefully received.
There's a metal wire that's included for the rear cap. The wire has a white coating, it would have been better if that was black but that's just nitpicking.
The only other thing I would have liked to have seen in the cast is the front sight. That little piece just isn't there and it's a signature item from the Sterling. I thought it would have been included with all the other odds and ends, so many have but not this one.
These are just suggestions to make it the perfect replica, another couple are the inclusion of the coiled wires and a spring for the barrel.
Can anyone help with advice on what to use for the wires and spring or do I leave out the spring? Would a spring have been used in a blaster from a galaxy far far away?
All advice and help will be gratefully received.
Last edited:
Scandvoice
Well-Known Member
Just a quick question: How long did you guys have to wait for your kits to arrive? I ordered mine on the 8/4 and they still haven't shipped it. I haven't ordered from Doopydoo's before, but from what I have read here on the RPF it's worth waiting for. ;-)
@ Scandvoice - I ordered directly from Doops and it took about 2-3weeks to get here, although I am in Canada.
@Starsky - Mine came with a casting of the front sight. If you ordered the full blaster kit i believe that should have been included, you may want to contact them to send you one. I may replace that however with custom made pieces as the cast of that was a bit soft, but the rest of the kit was very well cast.
@Starsky - Mine came with a casting of the front sight. If you ordered the full blaster kit i believe that should have been included, you may want to contact them to send you one. I may replace that however with custom made pieces as the cast of that was a bit soft, but the rest of the kit was very well cast.
Scandvoice
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info, guys! ;-)
Darth Lars
Master Member
What I have learned about the scope rail's dimensions:
ANH: 1/2" wide. Could be lower in the front than in the back.
ESB: 3/4" wide. Straight. Resin-cast stunt blasters have rails that are up to 1/8" thick. Hero blasters have thinner rails.
ANH: 1/2" wide. Could be lower in the front than in the back.
ESB: 3/4" wide. Straight. Resin-cast stunt blasters have rails that are up to 1/8" thick. Hero blasters have thinner rails.
Actually, I never noticed but mine does not have the tip either.
Although, I was planning on redoing the entire front sight in other materials anyway.
Like you said something like like a flat screw driver head would probably work.
jango trooper
Active Member
Sorry for reviving a old post.
Johnny B i really like them pictures of the metal parts of the e11 blaster.
Johnny B i really like them pictures of the metal parts of the e11 blaster.
With resin castings, I always find using wood screws to attach parts always adds strength and reliability, ontop of glueing them together. I have fun hiding the screws...if i can't..star wars has rivets and screws all over props in plain sight!
I need to do an E-11 soon.... I have a real tank scope all set. I just want an MGC or airsoft to work on
I need to do an E-11 soon.... I have a real tank scope all set. I just want an MGC or airsoft to work on
Similar threads
