I am about to paint my first model. Need a question answered.

[JimShaw]

For the primer, I will be using Plasti-Kote sandable primer which has four colors: Red, gray, black and white.

I will be using a metallic gold for the primary color.

All coatings will go over resin.

I was told by Plasti-Kote to use the red for the primer color because it will give the metallic gold a warmer feel.

You who do a lot of painting: Do you find that this is this correct? Or does it matter which primer color to use?

 

[propcollector]

metallic gold looks the best painted over gloss black.

 

[JimShaw]

metallic gold looks the best painted over gloss black.

Very interesting. When you say the best, what do you mean? Does it look richer, golder (if there is such a word)? Is this something you personally have done?

It look like I'll have to try black and red on something then go over with the gold to compare.

Black??? Yes, I can see that!

 

[JimShaw]

Anyone else with a thought?

 

[Robiwon]

Indy Idol????

Gold does look best over gloss black. The trick is to get whatever color under the gold as smooth as possible. Surface imperfections (dust, dirt, etc) look worse under a metalic finish. Why does gold look better over gloss black, not sure, it just does though. Do not however put a gloss over the gold. It will remove the "metalicness" of the gold.

Best thing to do is experiment with different base colors. See what you like.

 

[propcollector]

Indy Idol????

Gold does look best over gloss black. The trick is to get whatever color under the gold as smooth as possible. Surface imperfections (dust, dirt, etc) look worse under a metalic finish. Why does gold look better over gloss black, not sure, it just does though. Do not however put a gloss over the gold. It will remove the "metalicness" of the gold.

This is a true statement and i have painted many gold items. Also Just like if you are painting with a chrome color the gloss black makes it look more like chrome.

 

[JimShaw]

I really thank you for great info.

Black it is.

I will get the model as clean and as smooth as I can. I have been reading what to do regarding the model and painting. Therefore, I will be using 360 grit sand paper to start working up to 500 and 600.

I will spray the black primer, let dry and then sand with 600+ paper to get perfections out and then go over with the primer again. Sand again to make sure all imperfections are out and then the gold.

I might do a few coats of gold (sanding between layers) to make as perfect as possible.

Thanks again

 

[propcollector]

I really thank you for great info.

Black it is.

I will get the model as clean and as smooth as I can. I have been reading what to do regarding the model and painting. Therefore, I will be using 360 grit sand paper to start working up to 500 and 600.

I will spray the black primer, let dry and then sand with 600+ paper to get perfections out and then go over with the primer again. Sand again to make sure all imperfections are out and then the gold.

I might do a few coats of gold (sanding between layers) to make as perfect as possible.

Thanks again

LIke I said after the primer you need to use the gloss black to get the best gold look. And Then the gold over top the Gloss Black.

 

[moffeaton]

Back when people gilded things, they used a red "bole", which was a clay substrate. It did lend a warmness tot he leaf, but we're talking paint - not clay and metal.

I'd recommend T235 gray Plastikote as it shows flaws best. Get all the kinks worked out, sand it as smooth as you can stand to, and spray with a gloss black. Then the gold.

I've gilded before - it's cool! The real gold (not the brass you get at the craft store) is SUPER challenging to work with. Don't BREATHE around it - shut off your AC or heat.... it's crazy.

http://www.atelier-st-andre.net/en/pages/technique/icon_technique/bole.html

 

[JimShaw]

LIke I said after the primer you need to use the gloss black to get the best gold look. And Then the gold over top the Gloss Black.

Oh, I got you.

Primer first then black gloss then the gold

 

[JimShaw]

Back when people gilded things, they used a red "bole", which was a clay substrate. It did lend a warmness tot he leaf, but we're talking paint - not clay and metal.

I'd recommend T235 gray Plastikote as it shows flaws best. Get all the kinks worked out, sand it as smooth as you can stand to, and spray with a gloss black. Then the gold.

I've gilded before - it's cool! The real gold (not the brass you get at the craft store) is SUPER challenging to work with. Don't BREATHE around it - shut off your AC or heat.... it's crazy.

The technique of water gilding

I just looked. T-235 is the sandable primer. Good.

Then after sanding and sanding, etc., etc. Use Plastikote 2501 black gloss enamel. Sand again, etc.

Then finish with their 452 Metalic Gold.

CORRECT?

I don't even want to try gilding. That is for pros not for beginners on a costly model.

 

[propcollector]

yep you got it

 

[JimShaw]

yep you got it

propcollector

Thanks



Jim

 

[moffeaton]

Yep!

And yeah, gilding is crazy-stressful. Especially compared to using an oil-based size and the much friendlier and thicker fake gold everyone is used to. I plan to gild a bathroom ceiling eventually, and I'm using real silver, but it has a backer tissue, so it's easy to slap down!

Heh.

 

[JimShaw]

Yep!

And yeah, gilding is crazy-stressful. Especially compared to using an oil-based size and the much friendlier and thicker fake gold everyone is used to. I plan to gild a bathroom ceiling eventually, and I'm using real silver, but it has a backer tissue, so it's easy to slap down!

Heh.

Too stressful for me. I am having a heart attach thinking about doing a model with spray cans let alone gilding.

 

[trekriffic]

Also make sure to give your primer coat about a week to cure completely before you start sanding. Whereas most enamels are fully cured in 3 days or so (glosses can take a day or two longer to dry than flat finishes) primers are stickier and take longer to dry.
A good rule of thumb is, if you can detect an oder of paint when sniffing the model close, it isn't fully cured yet.

 

[JimShaw]

Also make sure to give your primer coat about a week to cure completely before you start sanding. Whereas most enamels are fully cured in 3 days or so (glosses can take a day or two longer to dry than flat finishes) primers are stickier and take longer to dry.
A good rule of thumb is, if you can detect an oder of paint when sniffing the model close, it isn't fully cured yet.

Two weeks? Eventhough the can says after 40 minutes I can sand and re-coat?

I want to make sure I do this right with NO screw-ups. If it is best to wait a week, I will.

 

[trekriffic]

Sorry. Let me clarity... I use the Testors grey enamel primer mostly. Platikote T235 is lacquer based so you may be alright waiting only an hour or so. Testors says 48 hours to cure on their website but I know last night, when I sniffed the model I'd primed with Testors last Sunday, I could still smell the paint-it was faint but it was still there.

 

[JimShaw]

Sorry. Let me clarity... I use the Testors grey enamel primer mostly. Platikote T235 is lacquer based so you may be alright waiting only an hour or so. Testors says 48 hours to cure on their website but I know last night, when I sniffed the model I'd primed with Testors last Sunday, I could still smell the paint-it was faint but it was still there.

Thanks for the follow-up.

 

[Engineer]

When doing work with real gold leaf a long time ago, it became a common practice to use a red underpaint. That gave a warm glow to the gold, because some of the red actually could be seen. However, if you are using a gold paint that is truly opaque, the color underneath does not make any difference. In that case, what you want is a nice, smooth undercoat. In some brands of paint, some colors are smoother than others, but in most brands, there is no real difference.