How to smooth pepakura armour?

The truth here is, you get nothing for nothing. There are no shortcuts.

There's no easy way to make a silk purse from a sow's ear, pepakura promises that initially but actually demands a whole lot of graft. But it can be done with blood, sweat and tears. I've mocked up quite a few sow's purses in my time so I know what I'm talking about. You really have to work at this thing if you want it to be great. That means having the right materials, like sandpaper, putting in the sweat and doing what's required. A bit of dedication and extra effort.

That's the only way it can be done.

Then you will have the piece you want to make.
 
Contrary to popular belief... Smooth Cast 300, 320, etc... are toxic. Just because it doens't give off offensive odors does not mean it's non-toxic. I used to think the same thing and I use it all the time. I was informed and also found the "Material Safety Data Sheet" which put in plain english that it is not good to inhale this stuff.

So out of your own safety please wear a respirator.
 
...You really have to work at this thing if you want it to be great. That means having the right materials, like sandpaper, putting in the sweat and doing what's required. A bit of dedication and extra effort...

And when finished, you'll have stronger arms without any need of GYM :lol
 
Sure you could tear through it with a power sander no problem, still would be hard to finish correctly after it is roughed out. You don't do finishing work with a power sander, hand sand with a block. ;)

Different people have different processes, and it all depends on the project at hand. But of course, I was addressing the general issue of Bondo being hard to sand. If more specific tooling issues arose, such as finishing work, I would have presented a more focused answer. I do a lot of my detail work by Dremel, but I also do a lot of other work in more traditional sculpting methods, and hand sanding is always part of my work.

I'd recommend investing in tools that would be suited for working with those materials. In general, a craftsman's abilities are linked to his available equipment. Even if it gets used for this one single project (being that it's Iron Man, that's a pretty sizable project) and you never pick it up again, a simple palm sander will probably be worth the investment just in time alone. Whatever means you seek for finishing work (as previously discussed) is up to you, but if you're wanting to smooth out major areas quickly and efficiently, do yourself a favor and get a power sander. Your hands will thank you. LOL.
 
LOL I do my work by hand because I want the absolute best finish. I've been a Autobody Mech for 22 years now, I have a garage full of "the Right Tools" ;) not cheap get you by stuff I mean real tools. My hands are just fine BTW. lol :lol

Different people have different processes, and it all depends on the project at hand. But of course, I was addressing the general issue of Bondo being hard to sand. If more specific tooling issues arose, such as finishing work, I would have presented a more focused answer. I do a lot of my detail work by Dremel, but I also do a lot of other work in more traditional sculpting methods, and hand sanding is always part of my work.

I'd recommend investing in tools that would be suited for working with those materials. In general, a craftsman's abilities are linked to his available equipment. Even if it gets used for this one single project (being that it's Iron Man, that's a pretty sizable project) and you never pick it up again, a simple palm sander will probably be worth the investment just in time alone. Whatever means you seek for finishing work (as previously discussed) is up to you, but if you're wanting to smooth out major areas quickly and efficiently, do yourself a favor and get a power sander. Your hands will thank you. LOL.
 
yes agreed with fin , i also do all my finishing work by hand it is the only way to get the best finish


no powersanders or dremels?


Thanks for the help guys, I've started sanding the chest and I also did some wetsanding by hand which I've never done before and it helps alot!! It's already really clean and smooth looking but I still have a bit more to do.
 
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A good trick to sanding bondo is start sanding when the bondo is "green" (when it's just kicked and still a little soft) You can also use a sureform or rasp to knock down the lumpy-bumpies and then go with 40-60 grit sand paper using large quick strokes. As the bondo get's harder go with higher grits (80-120). It makes for ease of sanding and quick forming.
 
A good trick to sanding bondo is start sanding when the bondo is "green" (when it's just kicked and still a little soft) You can also use a sureform or rasp to knock down the lumpy-bumpies and then go with 40-60 grit sand paper using large quick strokes. As the bondo get's harder go with higher grits (80-120). It makes for ease of sanding and quick forming.

this was immensely helpful, answered my unasked fear for when i get to bondoing and sanding :$
 
Hand work I would think is always the best way, more due to the fact that you have ultimate control of the sandpaper. Tools like a dremel can slip and ruin a whole area in seconds if your concentration slips etc.

The art comes from knowing with grit to use.
 
I have looked into alternatives for the hardening process rather extensively,
The outcome is that you guys really know you are on about.
I am going to try an idea a friend had for this step, involving mixing PVA (white glue) with clear quick drying varnish.
Should be interesting.:love
 
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