How Much Are Master Replicas TOS Phasers Worth

A

AJK001

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Anyone know how much New in the Box Master Replicas TOS Signature Edition Phasers are going for now. I have both the Nimoy and Shatner Editons that I bought new from MR when they first came out and they have only been opened to verify that they were undamaged.

Thanks
 
eBay has about 3 listed.

One is going for a $1,850.00 and that comes with the communicator as well. Another for $750.00, and a supposed artist proof for $1,499.99.

With zero bids each, all I can say is :sick

Not a lot of fans were happy about this one. There's been a recent discussion in the "EFX has Star Trek License" threat where a lot of posters commented on the MR Classic Phaser's inaccuracy on various points.
 
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One million quatloos! (the quatloo isn't what it used to be)


Ain't perfect but I wouldn't let go of mine. It is still a very nice product.
 
Somewhere around $1500, give or take a couple of hundred, sounds right to me, but then again worth and what someone is willing to pay are two different things! The economy still needs some umph, so that is a factor.

I would add that I don't think now is the right time to sell either, but who knows? The market is so fluid, a new replica that claims to be the "last word on phasers" could def. change the market. Someone might argue it would be better to sell it before EFX comes out with theres if they were planning on one.

Another argument though would be that Nimoy and Shatner won't be around forever, and someday, they won't be able to sign anymore. In that case, I would argue that the signatures are almost more bankable then the phasers and might be worth holding on to for that reason.

Lastly, the market is better now then it was a few weeks after DST and AA released the toy phasers, but not as good as it might have been 25 years ago when flying to a convention was the only way to buy a phaser.

Regardless, congrads on owning two cool pieces and goodluck with whatever you choose to do. Arguably, Karl is one of our resident Trek experts, so he might be a good person to ask.
 
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Actually....

The P2 body is very "accurate". The P1 body is a nightmare, but that is another, long, sordid, story... Ug. :confused

The original prop casting was EXTREMELY wonky/ warped/ assymetrical. So tell me what is "accurate"? If we did it just like Greg's, 75% of the customers would have returned it for being defective.

I recently checked the dims of the MR P-2 body for someone (I still have my original notes). The P-1 opening is within 13 THOUSANDTHS-of-an-inch in length. Many of the other dims are either within a few thousandths or are spot on. The only place it really varies is where we "cleaned it up". eg; the rear fin area is completely different from the left side to the right side. so, I picked a "middle" and split the difference.

So to complain about it being inaccurate is just...dumb. It will definitely continue on for years, and folks certainly have the right to say that, but I also have the right to say that is dumb. :lol

The only way to have an 100% ACCURATE replica is to have a warped, cork-screwed, assymetrical model. About 50 people would want it that way, the other 2450 would NOT. You can see which way I sided :)

Amen.

Jeyl said:
eBay has about 3 listed.

One is going for a $1,850.00 and that comes with the communicator as well. Another for $750.00, and a supposed artist proof for $1,499.99.

With zero bids each, all I can say is :sick

Not a lot of fans were happy about this one. There's been a recent discussion in the "EFX has Star Trek License" threat where a lot of posters commented on the MR Classic Phaser's inaccuracy on various points.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for everyone's respones. As of now, I think I'm going to hold on to them. I recently lost my job of 19 years, another story, and was thinking of selling off some of my better props, but desperation is never a good way to sell things, so I think I'll take a deep breath and wait.

Thanks again.
 
AJK001 said:
Thanks for everyone's respones. As of now, I think I'm going to hold on to them. I recently lost my job of 19 years, another story, and was thinking of selling off some of my better props, but desperation is never a good way to sell things, so I think I'll take a deep breath and wait.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Been there, done that.:cry

If you can hang on to them do it, the empty spot in your collection will haunt you.

Best of luck to you on the job search!
 
AJK001 said:
Thanks for everyone's respones. As of now, I think I'm going to hold on to them. I recently lost my job of 19 years, another story, and was thinking of selling off some of my better props, but desperation is never a good way to sell things, so I think I'll take a deep breath and wait.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

I am sorry to hear that. These days, if we havn't lost our jobs ourselves, we at least all know someone who has. You know the saying, for every door that closes, another one opens. I wish you the best and hopefully you will be back to the grind in no time!
 
Thanks for everyones best wishes. I'm sure something good will come of this, even though right now things don't look to good.
 
Steve
What about the height of the front of the P2? That still seems too tall even with the undersized front of the P1 taken in to account.


SD Studios said:
Actually....

The P2 body is very "accurate". The P1 body is a nightmare, but that is another, long, sordid, story... Ug. :confused

The original prop casting was EXTREMELY wonky/ warped/ assymetrical. So tell me what is "accurate"? If we did it just like Greg's, 75% of the customers would have returned it for being defective.

I recently checked the dims of the MR P-2 body for someone (I still have my original notes). The P-1 opening is within 13 THOUSANDTHS-of-an-inch in length. Many of the other dims are either within a few thousandths or are spot on. The only place it really varies is where we "cleaned it up". eg; the rear fin area is completely different from the left side to the right side. so, I picked a "middle" and split the difference.

So to complain about it being inaccurate is just...dumb. It will definitely continue on for years, and folks certainly have the right to say that, but I also have the right to say that is dumb. :lol

The only way to have an 100% ACCURATE replica is to have a warped, cork-screwed, assymetrical model. About 50 people would want it that way, the other 2450 would NOT. You can see which way I sided :)

Amen.
Click to expand...
 
silverskyes402 said:
Haha I love it! But seriously, good luck, I'm sure you'll get a great price for them! And keep your head up, I hope times get better :)
Click to expand...

As of now, I'm going to keep them, but if things get tough, I may have to change that.

Thanks again to everyone for all the well wishes I have gotten.
 
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