How do I hang the HCG Pulse Rifle on a plaster wall??

GeneralFROSTY

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So I got this thing for Christmas and it's been sitting covered up in my closet ever since simply because I really don't know how to hang such a heavy display on my plaster walls.
What do I need to do to safely hang it up? I plan on hanging it right above a doorway so safety is important...wouldent want this thing to fall on someones head!
 
I used hollow drywall anchors from Home Depot that looked very similar to these:

Crown Bolt Zinc Plated #6-32 x 1-3/4 in. Hollow Wall Anchor with Truss Head Combo Drive Screw - 10752.0 at The Home Depot


Again, not sure if those were the exact type I used but they do look very similar.

I have my HCG hung above some fairly high end busts so if this thing ever falls its definitely going to do a lot of damage. But these anchors have the base mounted *very* securely to the wall which is why I'm not worried.

My suggestion to you is to take a trip to Home Depot or Loews and ask them which wall anchors would work best for you. I wonder if a toggler bolt would be best for your situation? It's what our fire inspectors use to secure fire extinguishers to our walls at work.

Hope this helps some.
 
The wall anchors posted would do the trick or heavier duty bolts could work. Dont be afraid to add an extra hook or two to help spread the weight. I dont know the weight of the HCG one but if you can use a stud finder or just tap and find if there are any wooden beams behind the plaster you can try position it that way to be sure.

Also make sure the plaster has a bit of thickness to it aswell before you put it on, no point if its just a fairly thin sheet. Best of luck!
 
I've just taken a look at a product called snaptoggle which looks really good.
After the bolt is installed, what exactly does the PR display hang on? Do I need to buy anything else additional to the anchors?
 
The back of the base has two pre-drilled holes to accommodate the anchor's screw heads. So nothing to do to the back of he base unless you wanted to add more anchors.

If your lucky enough to find a stud as Kwalsh suggested then that would be your best option but if not then don't worry - those anchors should be good enough ... just don't slam that door shut!
 
One trick I've used is to mount a decorative (finished oak) support bar under heavy loads mounted on drywall (I know you are dealing with plaster). These I mount to studs if possible, or used big toggle bolts if it is common drywall. It should work with plaster and lathe walls, but I haven't tried it. This method helps carry the weight, engineers call it a load bearing cross beam.

Over a door, you may have the ability to use the actual door frame, which is incredibly strong, to carry the weight of the display if the layout and engineering works out for you. In other words, maybe rest the bottom of the gunrack on the top of the doorframe ledge or shim it with a piece of wood (painted to match the wall) to elevate it a little. This way the majority of the weight load is carried by the door frame and not on whatever bolt/drywall fastener/screw arrangement you have to attach the rack to the wall.

I don't know how your pulse rifle attaches to the mount, but you may want to put an additional way of securing it to the rack itself. I live in earthquake country and my own pulse rifle weighs a ton, being all metal. It is on a metal grid rack that has metal arms that support the gun. However, in a side to side shake (like from an earthquake) it could be dislodged and fall. I recommend that you consider going to the hardware store and picking up some lengths of metal cabling (small diameter, sold by the foot) similar to the type used for bike gear shift and brake controls. You can measure what you need and cut the cables as needed. The cable can also be purchased coated in a vinyl sheath to protect the finish of your PR. They sell little do-it-yourself metal ends which I think are called "ferrules." Loop the cable into the ferrule, hit (crimp) with a hammer and you have a custom made "leash" with looped ends. You can choose to use little locks (for added security) or simple snap hooks or any other non-locked method to secure the cable ends. The cables are small and inobtrusive. An alternative would be to take some paracord/550 cord and tie it in a couple of spots.

I bolted my rack to the wall studs using lag bolts and large washers to disperse the load a little. Here's how it looks (cable retainers not shown). If you need pics of the cable leashes, I can post some later.

SDHelmet.jpg
 
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