Hero X-Wing Build
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Sr Member
Didn't even have a shop for a few years after we moved into our current home, because we had a lot of other renovating to do first. So this year I went from a card table in the attic that I had to clean up whenever we had guests - which is just about every week - to what was a storage room in the basement.
With all of that pent-up modeling juju, I went a little nuts puting this new shop together. Glad I did, tho cause it sure beats the crap out of the card table! :lol
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79 DAYTONA
Well-Known Member
WOW!! That looks great!!
MonsieurTox
Master Member
Looks fine !
I'm curious to know what are the diff between the hero and pyro wings ! I noticed that the scribbing was not always exactly the same but I was wondering if the wings of all the hero models were exactly the same (in proportions, size etc) since they were probably handmade ?
I'm curious to know what are the diff between the hero and pyro wings ! I noticed that the scribbing was not always exactly the same but I was wondering if the wings of all the hero models were exactly the same (in proportions, size etc) since they were probably handmade ?
MonsieurTox
Master Member
Yeah I too think they were only 2 pyro wing patterns. On the pyro pics I noticed the top and bottom wings have the same chip patterns.
That makes sens they build wings only for casting instead of cannibalized and modified hero wings !
Ok for the rest and Ive noticed that when I drew my wings from pyro wings, I had to modified them a bit to match the hero style, but I wasnt aware for the angle of the box ramp. It makes sens because I had to sand a bit my sealab parts at the base (intakes) because they were a bit too high (in fact the box ramp was not high enough, was lacking 0.5 mm which is nothing but I wasnt able to close my wing perfectly !).
That makes sens they build wings only for casting instead of cannibalized and modified hero wings !
Ok for the rest and Ive noticed that when I drew my wings from pyro wings, I had to modified them a bit to match the hero style, but I wasnt aware for the angle of the box ramp. It makes sens because I had to sand a bit my sealab parts at the base (intakes) because they were a bit too high (in fact the box ramp was not high enough, was lacking 0.5 mm which is nothing but I wasnt able to close my wing perfectly !).
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Sr Member
Yup, you've noticed one of the issues with the "pyro" wings, and kit wings patterned after them. If you look carefully at the leading edge of the hero models, the entire Sealab "triangle" part is there, top-to-bottom, and both raised ridges along those edges are intact. It's attached more or less flush, and aligned with, the top of the styrene inner wing panel, and there is even usually some blank space between the top of that part and the top of the engine box ramp, which indicates how much taller the hero engine boxes were than the pyro versions.
I'm not sure if the V3 kit part that goes here is left over from the CC kit or was newly remastered for the V3, but the bottom ridge of the Sealab part has been trimmed away so that it's smaller than it should be for that "hero" wing look, and that's just one of the reasons why I'm remastering this particular greeblie cluster. The other is that I want to be able to trim it rounder than the V3 part, so that it fits nice and flush against the engine intake.
What a Sweet Thread!
I'm learning a lot about X-wings.
Very nice build-up you got there!
...and I'm jealous of your workspace. Nice!
I'm learning a lot about X-wings.
Very nice build-up you got there!
...and I'm jealous of your workspace. Nice!
MonsieurTox
Master Member
Hey Beaz, I see you didnt rush the job as I did and you did a 2 parts mold !
Looks nice, I cant wait to see some pulls out of this mold !
Looks nice, I cant wait to see some pulls out of this mold !
MonsieurTox
Master Member
Very nice castings Beaz ! Now I think I will have to redo a mold like yours ! (the bad thing is I dont know where I put the master LOL)
To avoid airbubbles I use to use baby powder which helps a lot, but you probably already use that trick !
I will try to copy what you did, I thought my casting were good but after seeing yours, I cant use them LOL
Great job =)
To avoid airbubbles I use to use baby powder which helps a lot, but you probably already use that trick !
I will try to copy what you did, I thought my casting were good but after seeing yours, I cant use them LOL
Great job =)
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Qrest Fourstar
Sr Member
Baby powder to avoid air bubbles?
Please educate me!
Please educate me!
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Sr Member
Thanks guys. Lee, I'm trying to make some progress each day, even if it's just a little bit!
Julien, I really prefer this mold technique over a closed two part mold because I can avoid resin pour stubs and vent sprues. It preserves detail and makes clean up of each part easier because all I need to do is knock off some thin flash and run the bottom edges across a piece of sandpaper a few times.
I'll definitely be using this technique to cast the other half-round parts (Saturn V and Sealab) for the main engines.
The thing to watch for is not to let the resin build up at the bottom edge, along the open part of the mold. I use a piece of scrap styrene sheet to scrape any excess resin over to the side, and then wick that away with a paper towel before it cures. This keeps any excess flash paper thin and makes for easier cleanup of the part.
Talc is definitely good for helping the resin flow. You definitely don't want too much, or it can affect the quality of your casting. I dust it on lightly and then blow most of it out with an airbrush.
Julien, I really prefer this mold technique over a closed two part mold because I can avoid resin pour stubs and vent sprues. It preserves detail and makes clean up of each part easier because all I need to do is knock off some thin flash and run the bottom edges across a piece of sandpaper a few times.
I'll definitely be using this technique to cast the other half-round parts (Saturn V and Sealab) for the main engines.
The thing to watch for is not to let the resin build up at the bottom edge, along the open part of the mold. I use a piece of scrap styrene sheet to scrape any excess resin over to the side, and then wick that away with a paper towel before it cures. This keeps any excess flash paper thin and makes for easier cleanup of the part.
Talc is definitely good for helping the resin flow. You definitely don't want too much, or it can affect the quality of your casting. I dust it on lightly and then blow most of it out with an airbrush.
