Revari, here's some basic info on pattern drafting and draping...something I do daily:
Pattern drafting is one of those things that you usually learn best just by playing with it, making lots of mistakes and then realizing where it went wrong. You sound like you have done a little of this before...and you are going in the right direction! Some people can learn from cobbling commercial patterns together, reading how-to books or online tutorials. Some are more visual and need an actual class to see it done. My opinion is that the best way is to do all of those, so you can really get a sense of it. A lot of cosplayers learn by cobbling patterns, but they don't get the benefit of understanding some of the basic theory or rules that help you make better patterns.
If you are book kind of person, I recommend looking for some Flat Pattern Drafting books online, especially used ones on Buy.com and the like...because they can be very expensive! I personally love
Principals of Flat Pattern Design. It's a textbook developed for college students studying Fashion Design & Sewing Construction, but it was my text in my pattern drafting course during my Theatrical Costume Design study. Truthfully, I find it much easier to learn visually but this book was very clear and concise. It's also very easy to find cheaply because it's widely used!
It teaches you all the basic rules in half scale for bodices, necklines, sleeves, collars, skirts, etc.
If you like to learn as you go...say during a costume project...then it's important for you to learn how to build a custom body block or sloper. They are the basic shapes used to make different types of garments. Most pattern drafting books will explain them to you or even give you instructions how to make your own. Some just provide basic size slopers to you like dress size 6,8,10,12, etc. and you modify those. It's a personal choice but the closer the pattern being drafted is in size to you...then the better the first fitting will go! Commercial pattern companies like McCall's have
"Learn to Fit" patterns that are basic shells that you customize and can use as a sloper.
And about draping...There are lots of different ways to develop patterns. Flat patterning has the most books and information because it's very mathematical with lots of rules. Draping has some basic rules that are important but you are mostly sculpting your garment. Flat patterning works from nothing to a garment and draping starts out already as that garment...if that makes any sense? There are books out for draping as well, though I found it easier to be shown at first...then it grew on me tremendously. It's a great way to play with costume ideas!
Draping is natural for visual people...and flat patterning is great for math heads. But certain methods are better for certain types of garments or applications. You certainly can drape a pleated skirt on a dress form...but it's a huge hassle that can be easily done flat on the table with a ruler and paper!
I hope this helps! I always encourage cosplayers and home sewers to take a flat patterning and draping course if they have one available to them...it makes a world of difference and opens lots of doors to them.
