HAL 9000 from 2001: a space odyssey

I was planning to make a plate in aluminium using my Sherline CNC. The originals were likely made on a mill. I can get the aluminium offcuts pretty cheaply. I paid about $20 for the huge chunk my lathe sits on.

The original lens had 9 elements in 5 groups. I can't see why it should require all 9. The main thing is probably to get the first and the last right and maybe some of the middle ones.

The last one is going to be important to get the deep red glow effect. I think the tube is likely to be essential.

I haven't managed to find any good design details. But 1962 is before Nikon developed ED glass so the refractive index should be that of crown glass (1.55) which is the same as at least one type of clear epoxy. Problem is that smooth on don't seem to provide that detail for theirs and they are my local supplier.

Since the only real objective is to get an 8mm focal length (i.e. 180 degrees) and a 24mm circle of view, it may be possible to calculate the radiuses and positions in a spreadsheet.

It is not like this was the best ever lens Nikon made. It was taken off the market very soon after introduction. The performance did not meet the extraordinary cost. A short while later Nikon had an f/5.6 and then a f/2.8 that did not need the mirror lock up.

I wonder if part of the reason for the choice of lens was that it was not such a good design. It gives interesting internal reflections. It does not appear to be multicoated either (I think the first was 1969, after 2001 was made).
 
Yeah, milling the plate would probably be best, depending on the time it takes. I assume it's all/mostly automated?

So what do you think about doing the solid lens like that, then? I think you have a handle on the radi-ii (?) and all of that, and I assume you'd CAD-up some sort of model for the master mold? My original idea was to get the layers as close as possible using wood spheres, cut up and glued together, make a master negative, then a master positive, etc. Pain in the tookas, and it'd probably be way off. Maybe you could cut one out of something better, with far greater accuracy. And you're right, it doesn't have to have all 9 elements, but it should give the impression of having them. I also wonder if using something like a super bright surface-mount LED might be better in terms of the overall depth? Hard to know exactly how to get the glow just right without the original depth, which was considerable.

I've also wondered if they adjusted the depth and brightness for different angles. Easy to do on film, not so much for a static prop.
 
Damn! just found this thread! Was thinking about making one from scratch but saw all the fab kits & stuff, and I even think I my dad actually HAS one of the aforementioned lenses. Will have to go rooting thru his stuff. The question is do I sell the nice lens on ebay and make do with some plastic or just go for it and use it if I do find it. Great posts all around, and lets keep it going with some HAL's from forum members attached to their monitors and TVs, I KNOW they're out there.


I have an affinity with HAL; like him, my mind is going . . .

CC.:love
 
L.M.C. panel - The secret:
57338102.jpg
 
Hi
I didn't read the full thread but here is a quick and relatively cheap solution for the lens, unfortunately it does not have the correct dome shape:
try a fisheye converter lens ( those that attach on top of a standard lens) ex: vivitar or many other brands.(check ebay or amazon) exists in many sizes for photo or video cameras.
from front it looks about right.
one thing I was wondering however: in some scenes doesn't it look more or less red? is this done by just making the light more or less bright? or does it zoom in some way?
 
here's my HAL panel. i made it for for about $5. hardest part was the speaker grill i drilled every hole into a piece of aluminum.

the dome is a baseball display cover, and the body is all foam core. its not high grade aluminum but im happy with it. currently working on making it talk using a cheap mp3 player so i can put tracks on it.
 
Here ya go!

10241-hal-panel.jpg

I just received my Nikon 8mm f/8 today. I notice that the aperture looks very very small indeed. Placing the lens in front of a light source does not seem to give much of a 'HAL' glow.

One possibility is that the HAL effect is the result of the film super saturating. Another is that they messed about with the lens to take off the rear elements.

Update: Nope, it just needs to be a VERY bright light.
 
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