good filler for small scratches and pinholes

[LeMarchand]

We all know when building a master or a resin kit and have those little shallow pinholes and scratches. We fill them with carbody filler, which is great stuff and strong, but it takes a lot of sanding and can result in too much material sanded off the area around the fixed area, which is a big bummer.

so, the other day, i was working on a piece and thought up the following as a filler for scratches and pinholes, it is not strong enough for corners and such but it seems to work really well for the first mentioned defects. The beauty of it, it sands really easy, taking off barely any material around it.

The secret ingredients.........primer with talcum powder. Just mix it to a thick paste and use it. Might be a knbown solution, but i thought i just mention it here.

cheers,

Marc

 

[SiR-ROUND]

Wow, that's great. I was looking for something like this. As I work with basla I would surely easily damage the surroundings when using carbody filler.

So to get this straight... Primer as in primer paint? And talcum is....? Like we call it talkpoeder for baby's butts?

Many thanks for sharing this tip.

 

[LeMarchand]

yep, standard primer out of a spraycan, add talcum powder (the babybutt type) and stir, keep adding talcum till it is like a paste and apply.

Marc

 

[Hadleys Hope]

Just so I am clear, I have to primer a babys butt then rub it on the pinholes?


Paul

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

Cool....I think I'll try this on the center seam of an airplane model I'm currently building. Thanks for the tip

Steve

 

[lilpropdude]

super glue and baking powder works great also.

 

[micdavis]

I swear by this stuff.

http://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_m...ler/output_html

Also like this.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz006/18e/

 

[BlindSquirrel]

<div class='quotetop'>(Hadleys Hope @ Oct 20 2006, 04:21 PM) [snapback]1341872[/snapback]</div>

Just so I am clear, I have to primer a babys butt then rub it on the pinholes?

[/b]

Damn. I have everything except for a baby's butt.. :lol







Seriously, great tip...I'll have to try it.

 

[SiR-ROUND]

And the object will smell good also...

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

Speaking of fillers...I've always wondered how household joint compound or wood filler(elmers brand) would do on a model?

Since the talc/primer is kind of a homemade idea, I've really been curious to try my two and see if they take enamel and acrylic paints well. They just sand so much easier than bondo much like the talc/primer.

Steve

 

[wtac]

<div class='quotetop'>(LeMarchand @ Oct 20 2006, 06:19 PM) [snapback]1341654[/snapback]</div>

We all know when building a master or a resin kit and have those little shallow pinholes and scratches. We fill them with carbody filler, which is great stuff and strong, but it takes a lot of sanding and can result in too much material sanded off the area around the fixed area, which is a big bummer.

so, the other day, i was working on a piece and thought up the following as a filler for scratches and pinholes, it is not strong enough for corners and such but it seems to work really well for the first mentioned defects. The beauty of it, it sands really easy, taking off barely any material around it.

The secret ingredients.........primer with talcum powder. Just mix it to a thick paste and use it. Might be a knbown solution, but i thought i just mention it here.

cheers,

Marc
[/b]

Nice Idea I will try it out. I always keep a supply of the resin that I have sanded off at other times put it in the defect add superglue = quick dry filler

 

[SiR-ROUND]

Ah woodfiller... Indeed that's stays rather soft, but it's a bit grainy isn't it?

 

[david reed]

<div class='quotetop'>(LeMarchand @ Oct 20 2006, 05:19 PM) [snapback]1341654[/snapback]</div>

We all know when building a master or a resin kit and have those little shallow pinholes and scratches. We fill them with carbody filler, which is great stuff and strong, but it takes a lot of sanding and can result in too much material sanded off the area around the fixed area, which is a big bummer.

so, the other day, i was working on a piece and thought up the following as a filler for scratches and pinholes, it is not strong enough for corners and such but it seems to work really well for the first mentioned defects. The beauty of it, it sands really easy, taking off barely any material around it.

The secret ingredients.........primer with talcum powder. Just mix it to a thick paste and use it. Might be a knbown solution, but i thought i just mention it here.

cheers,

Marc
[/b]

Marc ,I use an automotive glazing putty for such things and it works,albeit soft.Also a little harder is contour putty from a tube is a good product and harder than the glazing putty in use on corners and such.centaur

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

<div class='quotetop'>(SiR-ROUND @ Oct 21 2006, 12:58 PM) [snapback]1342275[/snapback]</div>

Ah woodfiller... Indeed that's stays rather soft, but it's a bit grainy isn't it?
[/b]

Yeah, wood filler is a bit grainy....probably not a good idea. Lightweight joint compound on the other hand is much smoother.

Just taking in all possibilities rather than bondo. Automotive glazing putty sounds interesting. I'm curious, does this just squeeze and fill, then dry & sand?

 

[prop fan]

I use Bondo glazing & spot putty from Wal-Mart for all my prop needs. It is $1.43 for a 4 1/2 oz Reddish / Orange tube and hangs on a peg hook in the Automotive section, it also works great on any model kit. I think the best way to use this for small surface flaws is to put some on your finger and smear it across the surface of the part you are working on like a skim cote and it will fill in the little flaws and pin holes. When the putty is completely dry and it dries fast, sand the putty and resin to the desired shape. If you wet sand your parts it will give you a smooth glass like finish….use anything from 300 – 400 grit….I mostly use a 320.

 

[MaddMaxx82]

Re: Re: good filler for small scratches and pinholes

We all know when building a master or a resin kit and have those little shallow pinholes and scratches. We fill them with carbody filler, which is great stuff and strong, but it takes a lot of sanding and can result in too much material sanded off the area around the fixed area, which is a big bummer.

so, the other day, i was working on a piece and thought up the following as a filler for scratches and pinholes, it is not strong enough for corners and such but it seems to work really well for the first mentioned defects. The beauty of it, it sands really easy, taking off barely any material around it.

The secret ingredients.........primer with talcum powder. Just mix it to a thick paste and use it. Might be a knbown solution, but i thought i just mention it here.

cheers,

Marc

In the paint world we sell something called 'whiting powder' as an additive to give paint a thicker, higher build. This can help paint cover minor surface imperfections. Similar idea, but a professional option thats been around 50+ years.

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk 2

 

[Michael Bergeron]

6.5 year necro... One of the longest I've seen! :lol

Thanks for the info though.

 

[101]

I use knifing putty - fills surface scratches and stone chips - from automotive stores.

Not sure what US equivalent is?

Halfords UK:

Halfords | Holts Cataloy Knifing Putty 100g

 

[irishamericanlad]

its so old there are a ton of banned members in there lol