General Question

[SurfingDoc]

Hi all...

I'm new to these forums. I thought I would ask a question to all the modelers out there. I've been modeling since I was a kid, but only rather recently started to really put effort into it. What is a good brush weathering technique you guys know? I realize that air brush is much easier to apply weathering, but I am limited as I can't use an air brush in the small condo I own. So what are some good dry dursh weather techniques? thanks for the replies.

 

[Aegis159]

Hi all...

I'm new to these forums. I thought I would ask a question to all the modelers out there. I've been modeling since I was a kid, but only rather recently started to really put effort into it. What is a good brush weathering technique you guys know? I realize that air brush is much easier to apply weathering, but I am limited as I can't use an air brush in the small condo I own. So what are some good dry dursh weather techniques? thanks for the replies.

Ryan

Why does living where you are restrict you from using an airbrush? I'm just trying to understand the reason(s) mind you...

The two main weathering techniques done with a brush would be washes and dry brushing. Both of these techniques done slowly and gradually can render a very realistic paint job without ever picking up an airbrush. The airbrush can speed up the process though. However, the airbrush is not always the best tool for weathering, especially if you're needing a more irregular weathering effect.

A wash weather effect is done on a piece to bring out recessed areas like panel lines and whatnot. The paint is thinned down to something along the lines of skim milk or even thinner, and then can be applied to the piece in whatever quantity you're comfortable with. Once the wash has sat for a little bit, you'll then need to go back over areas you want to tremove the paint from to clean up the area. I use alot of Q-tips for this part. The color used, consistancy, and how it's applied is all subjective of course, as how I do it doesnt neccessarily mean that's how the next guy does. The brush style used can vary quite a bit as well depending on the amount of coverage you're looking for, etc..

The brush always stays the same for me though when I'm doing dry-brushing. I pull out my trusty flat chisel brush, dip into whatever color I'm using to weather with, and then proceed to wipe of 90-95% of the paint I just put on the brush. This leaves "dry" paint on the brush, so the first surface it comes in contact with is going to be where it stays. This is probably my favorite technique as sometimes the

Both of these techniques should be done slowly and in stages, otherwise you run the risk of having the weathering looking toy-like and unrealistic.

Hope this helps!

 

[SurfingDoc]

Thanks.

I've already been using those techniques without knowing it but this should help me refine it as I generally only do one layer.

The reason I can't use the air brush in my condo is that nice furniture and the wife prevent me from using a space bigger than 1' x 1' without hearing a lot about it... simple spousal mathematics

 

[Robiwon]

Have you tried using pastel chalks for weathering? You can pick up a pack of basic colors (red, blue, black, etc) Shave these with an x-acto blade into a cup and dry brush with them like you would with paint. You can mix the powders for custom colors. I used this tech. on a recent X-Wing and was real pleased with the results.

 

[SurfingDoc]

Nope, never tried that. Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try. Does it stay on well? I just imagine it rubbing off easily.

 

[Smiling Demon]

Solution 1. Dump the wife! Move into your own space! Problem solved.
Solution 2. Does your condo have a balcony/terrace. Problem solved.
Solution 3. Go to a friends house and paint your stuff. Problem solved.

If solution 2-3 doesn't work for you see solution 1.:lol

 

[SurfingDoc]

One more question:

Do you guys recommend using acrylic or enamel based paints for washing?

And sorry Kenny, but none of those suggestions work... unless you want to let me borrow your place to paint...

 

[PetarB]

Washes are a bit tough on handpainted items, as they tend to stain areas you don't want them too. I would advise a gloss clearcoat, say a Tamiya spraycan (I'm sure you could find a few minutes outside to do this) and let it dry overnight before applying a wash. This will get rid of any 'staining' before it happens and help the wash settle into the grooves it should go into. Pastels with water and a tiny bit of detergent to break the surface tension make a fantastic, non messy, wash which dries very quickly - you might want to experiment with that. The other option is an oil-colour based wash, using odorless varsol and artist's oils. Either way, once the wash is done, you'll want to spraycan it again with a matte finish, which will fix the wash and also get rid of the gloss from the first spraycan layer you put down.
In my experience neither acrylic or enamel washes deliver as good a result as the above two options.
Good luck!

 

[Smiling Demon]

One more question:

Do you guys recommend using acrylic or enamel based paints for washing?

And sorry Kenny, but none of those suggestions work... unless you want to let me borrow your place to paint...

I was just joking so you know and yes, I have no problem with you using my shop space to breed your creativity!:lol

 

[takevin]

You could also make a small paint box, meaning a three walls and a bottom, and put a top with a light inserted on it for good lighting. Make it big enough to fit on a table where you work on models. Then use a airbrush, wife wont have to worry about paint going everywhere.

 

[Gigatron]

Before doing any washes, put down a layer of Future Floor Wax acrylic clear coat. It's a floor polish from the makers of Pledge. They've had a recent name change to Pledge floor polish with Future shine.

It's water thin and hand brushes easily without leaving brush strokes. It also facilitates putting down any kind of wash since it's a high-gloss wax. It has very little odor (actually smells a little sweet) and cleans up with Windex with Ammonia.

So, put this stuff on and let it fully cure for about 72 hours. Then you can use a wash of thinned acrylic or enamel. If you goof up, you can clean them up without affecting the paint underneath. Because it's high-gloss, you can run the wash right into the panel lines without having to worry about making a paint-soap concoction. Then you brush on either flat or satin finish from Polly Scale (PN 404106 or 404103, respectively).

Now you can weather any kit without having to spray a thing.

-Fred

 

[SurfingDoc]

Thanks for the suggestions guys...

And yeah Kenny, I knew you were kidding, but I might crash your place to paint...

 

[Forestmoonstudio]

I agree that chalks make a good weathering technique.

 

[Smiling Demon]

Thanks for the suggestions guys...

And yeah Kenny, I knew you were kidding, but I might crash your place to paint...

Come on over buddy, you are welcome anytime!!
If my shop were on wheels I would roll on over to your place!!:lol