-
Welcome to the Project Runs Forum!
This forum is intended for interest gauging and active runs. Due to the transient nature of this forum, please keep all research and ongoing discussion in one of our main forums so your information is not lost.
Only Premium Members can start a new run.
Unlimited Run Floating Jedi Training Remote BUILDER'S KIT
- Thread starter Trooper_trent
- Start date
Curious if you would consider kits without the electronic "hovering" base. Just a static kit? Sorry if this has already been discussed.
Yeah it's been discussed a few times. I designed these to work with the floating base so swapping it out for a different sphere of the same size would be maybe $30-$40 difference. Besides, if you want it static, you can always take it off the base LOL but at least you have the option.
There are other people that sell castings of the model parts if you want to make a static one so as to not step on their toes, I only offer this floating version.
There are other people that sell castings of the model parts if you want to make a static one so as to not step on their toes, I only offer this floating version.
I have more in my shop but they'll ship after the new year.
austinungars
New Member
I was finally getting back to working on my Deagostini Millennium Falcon after moving at the end of last year and in issue 59 I came across a side article about the training remote and ran to my wife shouting “IT LOOKS LIKE THE ONE I BUILT!!!!” It looks exactly like the build kit. You did great work on the research and the kit is amazing. We look at it every day rotating in its display case right under the tv.
Here is the quick blurb that got me excited.
I am still thinking about a second one in red..... we will see....
Here is the quick blurb that got me excited.
I am still thinking about a second one in red..... we will see....
Nice.
I’m doing a couple of commissions for red ones soon. I’ll post pics here as well as I get them done.
I’m doing a couple of commissions for red ones soon. I’ll post pics here as well as I get them done.
Friendly reminder only two days left until the End of Year sale ends! I have 5 more slots left.
www.etsy.com
TrooperTrent - Etsy
Shop Paint Mask Stencils and Props by TrooperTrent located in Roanoke, Texas. Speedy replies! Has a history of replying to messages quickly. Rave reviews! Average review rating is 4.8 or higher
www.etsy.com
JediJohn182
Well-Known Member
I may be interested in one of them
Hey guys, quick announcement! I've had several people ask me about display plaques to go with these.
SaberCoaterz and Solid Sabers are teaming up to do a run of lightsaber plaques and have expressed interest in offering plaques for the Jedi Training remote in both OT and TROS designs. Each plaque will be UV printed on Dibond(Aluminum Composite) and will be approximately 2" x 6". Each print will be $20.00 Shipped ConUS. International shipping based on location.
Keep a lookout here for more info and to sign up. They look great and are a great price!
Click Here
SaberCoaterz and Solid Sabers are teaming up to do a run of lightsaber plaques and have expressed interest in offering plaques for the Jedi Training remote in both OT and TROS designs. Each plaque will be UV printed on Dibond(Aluminum Composite) and will be approximately 2" x 6". Each print will be $20.00 Shipped ConUS. International shipping based on location.
Keep a lookout here for more info and to sign up. They look great and are a great price!
Click Here
I received my kit. It is well put together kit. With professional packaging and everything. Trent's amazing guide videos include every possible detail. I have already watched each one a at least twice. I am also making my own build video (Not a guide, perhaps just a time-lapse)
I have my holes drilled, that was the most nerve racking part. I am now waiting for the filler to dry. In the meantime I decided to get to work on a nice display case. Since this will be going into my office at work, I don't want anyone to be able to bump it. The magnet inside is very strong and I can see that things might get broken if not handled carefully. If the power goes out it slams down hard. I may look at putting thin foam rubber pad on top of the stand just to dampen the force.
I have seen a few folks with cube shapes displays, I wanted something round. To that end I have ordered a 8"x8" glass display dome.
Then in Solid Edge I designed a stand to sit under the glass, and surround the magnetic base. I downloaded a CAD model someone else made of the remote, and verified that the dimensions matches Trents model (They did). I also measured my actual floating remote to ensure the dome was high enough.
The stand will have cutouts to allow the power cord to exit. It will be made from 3mm layers of laser-cut plywood. It has some side vents to ensure the base doesn't get too hot. I will actually bolt the magnetic stand into this one. Finally I will paint the plywood with primer and then black plasti-dip to make it close to the rubberized coating on the stand.
The image below is my rendering of the CAD design. I will share photos and the design files once I actually build it.
I have my holes drilled, that was the most nerve racking part. I am now waiting for the filler to dry. In the meantime I decided to get to work on a nice display case. Since this will be going into my office at work, I don't want anyone to be able to bump it. The magnet inside is very strong and I can see that things might get broken if not handled carefully. If the power goes out it slams down hard. I may look at putting thin foam rubber pad on top of the stand just to dampen the force.
I have seen a few folks with cube shapes displays, I wanted something round. To that end I have ordered a 8"x8" glass display dome.
Then in Solid Edge I designed a stand to sit under the glass, and surround the magnetic base. I downloaded a CAD model someone else made of the remote, and verified that the dimensions matches Trents model (They did). I also measured my actual floating remote to ensure the dome was high enough.
The stand will have cutouts to allow the power cord to exit. It will be made from 3mm layers of laser-cut plywood. It has some side vents to ensure the base doesn't get too hot. I will actually bolt the magnetic stand into this one. Finally I will paint the plywood with primer and then black plasti-dip to make it close to the rubberized coating on the stand.
The image below is my rendering of the CAD design. I will share photos and the design files once I actually build it.
Very cool! Can't wait to see how it turns out. Just something to think about, if you're going to cover it with a case, make sure the place you're going to be displaying it has enough head room for you to put the cover on and take it back off. The last thing you want is to put it in a shelf where you have to have it floating and covered before you put it in it's place because there's not enough space to put the cover on when it's in place.
Also, more importantly than a case to keep it from getting bumped would be a battery back-up. If you follow the rule of taking it off the base when you leave town or when the weather gets bad, a battery backup will give you plenty of time to take it down if you have an unexpected outage.
The build is going great so far! Your videos covered every detail., I wanted to share few tips for anyone building one of these:
Rather than clean the LEDs later, I managed to get my pinkies inside and stuck some blue tape over them. I also wonder if a spritz of white primer into each hole in the ball, before the grey goes on, would help to bounce the light around a bit more. Since the ball is translucent, I noticed the inside turns grey after priming.
I got to the step where I am installing the diffusers, and I did a test with the remote on the stand, and I noticed you can (from just the right angle) see the actual LEDs directly though them. I started to look around for something to break up the pattern, when I realized you already included it: The textured tape that holds the cut pieces is the perfect material. I removed all the diffusers and applied the tape to the back of each one and then re-installed them. The tape didn't diminsh the brightness at all.
Here is a short video below showing the diffusers against an LED flashlight.
Rather than clean the LEDs later, I managed to get my pinkies inside and stuck some blue tape over them. I also wonder if a spritz of white primer into each hole in the ball, before the grey goes on, would help to bounce the light around a bit more. Since the ball is translucent, I noticed the inside turns grey after priming.
I got to the step where I am installing the diffusers, and I did a test with the remote on the stand, and I noticed you can (from just the right angle) see the actual LEDs directly though them. I started to look around for something to break up the pattern, when I realized you already included it: The textured tape that holds the cut pieces is the perfect material. I removed all the diffusers and applied the tape to the back of each one and then re-installed them. The tape didn't diminsh the brightness at all.
Here is a short video below showing the diffusers against an LED flashlight.
Last edited:
It is finished! I could not be happier. Trooper_trent you are a master. I am no beginner, but I haven't been confident enough to do much painting and weathering on other props. This project gave me some renewed energy to get going on a few others.
The remote has been in my garage for a while now still spinning slowly. Hopefully the coriolis effect (or the magnets) keeps it that way even once it is under glass.
I decided to paint the interior with a quick layer of white acrylic paint, using a brush that fit into the holes. It seems to help bounce the light around a bit more. I ended up putting the horse shoes on before the rims, because I didn't re-watch that video. I broke one. So thanks for the spares. I also had to touch up the top edges of the chrome, even though it had been a day since I put a 2nd coat on those.
NAILED IT!
Great job man! I really appreciate you guys showing off your progress. I think a lot of new builders might lack confidence in themselves in trying something like this, but I really feel that this is a great way to get your feet wet in prop building. It's a really straight forward and easy to follow method that doesn't take a lot of skill but will still end up looking 100% legit and professional.
I wanted to make a kit like I wish I had when I first started. Something easy and fun, well thought out, step by step instructions, but that would surprise even myself at the end by turning out better than I'd hope. When you finish it and it just sits there hovering, lit, and spinning, it really does make you feel proud of building it.
I'm so glad you enjoyed making it. Thanks for sharing!
Great job man! I really appreciate you guys showing off your progress. I think a lot of new builders might lack confidence in themselves in trying something like this, but I really feel that this is a great way to get your feet wet in prop building. It's a really straight forward and easy to follow method that doesn't take a lot of skill but will still end up looking 100% legit and professional.
I wanted to make a kit like I wish I had when I first started. Something easy and fun, well thought out, step by step instructions, but that would surprise even myself at the end by turning out better than I'd hope. When you finish it and it just sits there hovering, lit, and spinning, it really does make you feel proud of building it.
I'm so glad you enjoyed making it. Thanks for sharing!
That looks legit man!! Nice work!!
Here it is inside its new custom case. Build video of the whole thing coming soon(ish).
For those who already have asked about making a case: I may do a run of case kits once I work out the exact design. (I had to build mine twice, and still have a few changes I would make). I will also release the design plans for anyone who has access to a laser cutter.
JediJohn182
Well-Known Member
Count me in
NICE! That turned out really well!
