First time Iron Man Pep Foam builder

G4mEr EnVy

New Member
So after watching x amount of Youtube videos and perusing through the forums, I find myself still a bit confused in terms of trying to prime, paint, and seal the painting process of foam costume.

1.) As most videos stated, begin with 3 coats of PVA (wood) glue. Do I do the Bondo filler work before or after the 3 coats? or does it even matter which is done first?

2.) After Bondo and PVA glue process, what is usually the preferred method? Do I use some sort of plastic resin first then use plastic primer then the paint? This is where it gets hazy for me.

3.) What resin do I use and when to keep the foam to hold its shape and have that hard coat?

4.) Also I found that N42 magnets are hard as hell to snap off. I wouldn't want to tear the costume foam over time because of magnets. What grade applied magnets do you folks suggest?

I have Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Walmart, and Amazon (last resort since I hate waiting) accessible to me. Any suggestions would be very appreciated.
 
yeah, I don't think anyone has said bondo after PVA glue. Seems you got mixed up in the info of 2 different methods.

Gotta really look at what the people are using and doing and what materials their building with. Really think about it and look closely.
 
Thanks for the fast replies.
The problem is, there are still parts from the Pep cutting that dont match up or sometimes a mistake from gluing them together. There are other parts where I'd like a smoother finish and hide the edge of the part that I cut. Can I still use the bondo to hide those?

This is pretty much the video I've watched over and over along with other tutorials such as yours Stealth.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDwQg6CX25A
 
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I actually used hot glue in some places to fill in small edge gaps. Larger ones I hand cut small foam pieces and glued them in. These builds do require a certain amount of artistic liberties to be taken. It's not an exact science.
 
I actually used hot glue in some places to fill in small edge gaps. Larger ones I hand cut small foam pieces and glued them in. These builds do require a certain amount of artistic liberties to be taken. It's not an exact science.

Thanks Reedy ... I guess after taking so much time to prep the pep and take hours to cut foam precisely, I get discouraged when I find that it doesn't work out like the cardboard or cardstock build I do first for every part. I keep forgetting that there's still the pva glue coatings, primers, and the plastic stuff xrobot is talking about to hide mistakes etc.
 
Thanks for the fast replies.
The problem is, there are still parts from the Pep cutting that dont match up or sometimes a mistake from gluing them together. There are other parts where I'd like a smoother finish and hide the edge of the part that I cut. Can I still use the bondo to hide those?

What I've been finding works pretty well is to wet sand with a 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to smooth any rough edges or "bumped up" overlaps, then use a flexible paint-able caulk (I'm using DAP DynaFlex 230) to fill in any gaps. Some folks also use regular white "Elmers" glue or hot glue to fill gaps, but I find the caulk easier.
 
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