Farnsworth Discussion

Ok, let me know what you think?
482de947ee144e05a5ba0ae51276e523.jpg
 
Glad you got the links ok! I have had to order five centre knobs, if you want to wait I can send one to you! They have been paid for and are being sent, I have also found a supplier for the switchcraft 202 push button right hand switch! Only one prob there is a 4-6 week lead time! Because of the rare switch!

Ok, time to add some links for those of us in the uk building the farnsworth!

Left knob: www.doctortweek.co.uk - eagle/MXR style fluted knob 0.79 GBP each
Centre knob: rs components - part number is: 2508471781
Red lens: rs components - part number is: 473-0301
Right hand switch: www.mouser.com - part number is: 502-202, 4-6 week lead time!

Hope this helps you guys and girls in the uk, they have pictures so you can see what your buying, feel free to give me feedback on the links!
 
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The tap light I used on my 1st one (left in my photo) I found at Ace hardware. It is a little taller then I liked and they didn't have any more here. It was a incandescent light and they may have disccontinuded it.
Mark
 
shereekachu said:
All of my innards parts have come in! One more question...

The first sound module I got was from Radio Shack (the one that runs on a 9v). I don't care for the sound - too low. So I got this one for my second Farnsworth - Electronics Module http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl;j...0?it=A&id=2841 - Can an LED be soldered onto this board the same way?
Click to expand...

That link isn't working, but if its the 300 second module, you can remove the red LED and solder another of your choosing in its place. You can also control whether its on, off or blinking (and the pace of the blink).

I just got three that I'll be programming up soon (I lost the files from my last build when Windows took a dump) and I'll post the full program with all the audio files when I do, for anyone that wants to use this board.

I think it'll work for the 75 second module, as well.

-Shawn
 
What kind of paint is everyone using for the Wheatley cases? Is there any special prep work I should do for the brass?
 
I used Darth Sabers method.

After cleaning with alcohol
Rustoleum Espresso Satin
After it dries thoroughly buff with fine grade steel wool (0000)
Next use a sea sponge to apply Renaissance Brown Metallic Glaze.
after it dried I lightly misted the Espresso over it to knock down the glaze a bit then buff with the steel wool again then with a soft cloth.

Make sure to use latex gloves when working with the steel wool.

finished.jpg



Wildefarer used this method.
Leather Brown Rustoleum
Once dry use Black Metallic Rustoleum than immediately dab with balled piece of plastic wrap.
 
Hi guys, got my red lenses last night, they seem to be a very dark red! Is this the case? I know you guys will be taking photos with flashes will it make them look lighter in a picture!? I will post a pic as soon as I can

Thx
 
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Well boo - it's the link from the first post with all of the parts listed. This is where it takes me - http://www.electronics123.com/50-second-USB-recording-module.html

It doesn't have a red LED. That I can see. In fact my board isn't laid out like the one pictured. THe information that came with it says it's a 104 sec board.

I should be able to rig up a seperate small LED pack to fit in there though right?

This is really a lot of fun! I'm learning all kinds of new things!

jedibugs said:
That link isn't working, but if its the 300 second module, you can remove the red LED and solder another of your choosing in its place. You can also control whether its on, off or blinking (and the pace of the blink).

I just got three that I'll be programming up soon (I lost the files from my last build when Windows took a dump) and I'll post the full program with all the audio files when I do, for anyone that wants to use this board.

I think it'll work for the 75 second module, as well.

-Shawn
Click to expand...
 
My cases were silver so I primered the case in white. Then I sprayed the whole thing Rustoleum shiny gold. Then I taped off the inside lip. Then I sprayed them with Rustoleum Textured Brown - I went light with the paint on the front cover and the back so some of the gold would fade through. Remove tape and seal the whole thing with a clear matte finish. The texture paint has the most subtle texture on the planet but it gives it a nice tooth that gives the illusion of darker areas - no sponging needed.

Mechamaniac said:
What kind of paint is everyone using for the Wheatley cases? Is there any special prep work I should do for the brass?
Click to expand...
 
I think that as long as it has an LED and uses the same software to load the audio files it should be the same as Jedi's build and you should be good. I almost bought the 50 second, but the software was different so I went with the 75 second version (I don't need to select different audio files and the wiring is easier). I posted a wire diagram for the 75 second version in Jedi's thread (sorry it's a PDF).

I also have a question. How are people attaching the knobs to the back of the face plate? I would like them to turn, but have a low clearance. The best I can think of is to shove a wall anchor into the knob and then use a screw/washer to attach.


Well boo - it's the link from the first post with all of the parts listed. This is where it takes me - http://www.electronics123.com/50-sec...ng-module.html

It doesn't have a red LED. That I can see. In fact my board isn't laid out like the one pictured. THe information that came with it says it's a 104 sec board.

I should be able to rig up a seperate small LED pack to fit in there though right?

This is really a lot of fun! I'm learning all kinds of new things!
Click to expand...
 
justinobwi said:
I think that as long as it has an LED and uses the same software to load the audio files it should be the same as Jedi's build and you should be good. I almost bought the 50 second, but the software was different so I went with the 75 second version (I don't need to select different audio files and the wiring is easier). I posted a wire diagram for the 75 second version in Jedi's thread (sorry it's a PDF).

I also have a question. How are people attaching the knobs to the back of the face plate? I would like them to turn, but have a low clearance. The best I can think of is to shove a wall anchor into the knob and then use a screw/washer to attach.
Click to expand...

Sorry, meant to answer that question when you asked in my thread.

The rotary switch I used in my build had an extra long plastic rod that I had to cut down to use (it's a soft plastic) so I just used part of what I cut off, stuck a thumb tack into one end and used it as a post to attach the middle knob. The tack keeps it from coming out of the hole and the center knob attaches with a little built-in grub screw.

On my next build, though, I'll be wiring a potentiometer to the middle knob for volume control.
 
In my searching for items to build my farnsworth I have found much frustration and some satisfaction. I feel for those in the UK having problems locating suppliers or having to pay outrageous shippng charges. I had ordered some of the red lenses from allied, I ordered 10 because I figured as long as I was paying $5 handling and $6.75 shipping I might as well get a bunch at only .39cents each. My order totaled $15.75 for 10 of the red lens' and after a week my order was still in "update pending" status so I called. My payment was rejected because I had used a debit card instead of a credit card which makes no sense to me so I just cancelled the order. After some net searching I found a company called E-Lites.com that had the same CML 2811 red lens for only 1 cent more than allied but they have a $10 minimum order so I ordered 25 to fill out my minimum. The shipping was only $6.75 so my order totalled $16.75 for 25 of the red lens. I got 15 more for only a dollar more in price and im sure I will use they somewhere.

Next I was having a hard time finding the center knob and didnt want to deal with allied so I searched the net and ebay and found a guy that sells these (pictured) knockoff davies knobs and I got 20 of these for $9.95 plus $5.95 shipping which again is cheaper than ordering from allied. The only thing with these knobs is they are .625" (5/8) tall instead of the one used for the prop that is .500" (1/2) tall. I figured it would be just as easy to cut .125" (1/8) off the bottom as it would be to grind the skirt off the thread suggested knob, plus you can order these in brown just like the show prop. I talked to the owner and he ships to the UK for $15.95 flat rate and you may be able to get a smaller bundle than 20 just email and ask. I posted pics of the before and after I cut one down just below the set screw, this gives the correct hight of one half inch.

My brother has the faceplate water jet program done and is now working on making a stamp for the dial numbers so I wont have to have the engraver do them, keeping the cost down there. I also have a vacuum former made and am waiting on a die so I can start making the acrylic screens. As things get done I will post more pics and the faceplate and screens will eventually be available in the junkyard.

3PDT, DPDT, SPST, Momentary and Latched Footswitches

E-Lites

img0345ou.jpg


img0347yo.jpg
 
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