NakedMoleRat
Legendary Member
I didn't see that! Ironic, being Jedifyfe'd by Jedibugs! :lol
Farnsworth Discussion
- Thread starter Gordon Gekko
- Start date
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- warehouse 13
I am pretty new to this thread and very late in starting my build. I just wanted to share one important fact about starting this project. In using the resources in this thread in aquiring the parts to build a farnsworth it does get quite expensive. Just for the case, 2 knobs, red lens, side jacks, push button, faceplate, and glass screen you are looking at over $200. I am building this just for personal use and enjoyment, and it will be sitting on a shelf. I dont even plan on installing any wiring or electronics to make sounds or light up, im sure that would add another $25-50 in parts. I guess its not much if you want a perfect replica of a screen used farnsworth but to me its more about making it myself and having something I am happy with. I frequently check ebay and look for alternatives to save me some cash because today most of us can use all the extra cash we can get our hands on. I plan on hitting the flea market this weekend just to see what I can find for this and other projects, you never know what great finds you are going to stumble on.
That said, I hope everyone is having fun with their builds and keep sharing the pics, I love to see what others have built.
That said, I hope everyone is having fun with their builds and keep sharing the pics, I love to see what others have built.
Gareee
Well-Known Member
$200? Did you buy a gold plated flybox?
I think we spent $50 for everything for two farnsworths, including custom etched faceplates at a local place. (That was without electronics).
Eddie McClintock saw ours at Dragoncon last year, and thought I had done paint ops on the QMX ones.
I think we spent $50 for everything for two farnsworths, including custom etched faceplates at a local place. (That was without electronics).
Eddie McClintock saw ours at Dragoncon last year, and thought I had done paint ops on the QMX ones.
As I was gathering parts to build a new one, I decided to tally up the cost and I came up with $214.35. That is inclusive of all shipping, and I got some extra parts on the smaller bits where shipping comes to more than the item. Here's my list:
(Most of these items were acquired from the links in the first post).
Faceplate: $55
Wheatley box: $51.65
Left knob (x3): $3.40
Center Knob (x3): $8.84
Side Jacks: $14.85
Cabochon (x3): $3.59
Glass dome: $16.00
Switchcraft Button: $15 (I have purchased some additional one much cheaper since)
Red Dome: $12.58
Electronics Module: $23.44
Rotary Switch: $10.00
And that doesn't include cost of paint, adhesives, solder and time. That said, it's a lot cheaper than a QMx and much more satisfying to display, knowing that you built it yourself.
Interceptor6
Sr Member
Under $100 for mine, (though add another $50 for the autographs) Timing, scrounging (& luck) paid off digging around old electronics stores for most of the buttons.
Faceplate: $35 (early run)
Wheatley box: $9.99 (silver)
Left knob (x1): .25
Center Knob (x1): .25
Side Jacks: $14.85
Cabochon: Found
Plastic dome: $16.00 ? (early run)
Switchcraft Button: $15
Red Dome: found
Rotary Switch: .25
Electronics Module: N/A
I bought an old junk tube tester for $1 for my original buttons, then upgraded as I found them.
Faceplate: $35 (early run)
Wheatley box: $9.99 (silver)
Left knob (x1): .25
Center Knob (x1): .25
Side Jacks: $14.85
Cabochon: Found
Plastic dome: $16.00 ? (early run)
Switchcraft Button: $15
Red Dome: found
Rotary Switch: .25
Electronics Module: N/A
I bought an old junk tube tester for $1 for my original buttons, then upgraded as I found them.
I was going under the terms of starting today and using the info found in this thread. Here is how I reached my numbers. Wheatley box $51.65 shpd, left knob $2.72 shpd, center knob $13.03 shpd, red lens $17.24 shpd, side jacks $11.90 shpd, faceplate $55.00 shipped, glass dome $16.00 shipped. just that totalled $167.54. Now thats without the push button which im told to order the proper one is about $25.00. The clear acrylic bead for the center of the faceplate is only like $1.46 a dozen but you have to place a minimum order of $20. Just the shipping and handling on the red lens for one was $16.06. Some of these items were only purchasable with a minimum order of $20-25. This is why I stated I am always looking on ebay and going to flea markets, $200 for me at this time is way too much so I am seeking cheaper alternative. I got my wheatley lookalike box for under $9.00 shipped but since it hasnt arrived yet I cant tell if the dimensions will be close enough to use the faceplates on the junkyard, instead I will be making my own. The push button thats $25.00, im using a slightly modified radioshack unit for $3.19. I got my center knob off ebay for .99 with free shipping, but i will have to do mild sanding. I am finding alternatives that for me will be fine, as I said before I am not looking for a 100% screen accurate prop, just something that 95% of the average warehouse 13 fan wont be able to tell the difference.
Gareee
Well-Known Member
Maybe you need to read more of the thread and my own my build posts.
Our fly boxes were $12 shipped for two, I think. I included the link to the US website for them in several later posts. (Sorry to be rude, but if you can't be bothered to read my previous posts, I can't either.)
Our screens are glass, and cost less than $1.60 each. Shipped they were under $7 for the pair I think.
I redid previous artwork posted here, and had a local place do plastic faceplates with a brass coat. I think those cost us $22 or so for the pair.
The side jacks can be had at radio shack for about $4 a pair.
As I said, your numbers are WAY off for the cost.
Our fly boxes were $12 shipped for two, I think. I included the link to the US website for them in several later posts. (Sorry to be rude, but if you can't be bothered to read my previous posts, I can't either.)
Our screens are glass, and cost less than $1.60 each. Shipped they were under $7 for the pair I think.
I redid previous artwork posted here, and had a local place do plastic faceplates with a brass coat. I think those cost us $22 or so for the pair.
The side jacks can be had at radio shack for about $4 a pair.
As I said, your numbers are WAY off for the cost.
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Oh, I've been through the whole thread with a fine-toothed comb. I know about all the parts you're referring to:
-I looked into a lookalike box, but I'd heard a lot of people saying that the corner radius was different, so I figured I'd pay a little extra to be sure that a faceplate would fit.
-Your faceplate turned out REALLY well, but I just prefer a real brass one. The tactile element of props is almost as important to me as the visual element is.
- I did pick up one of those glass lab dishes, but I think I prefer the Ford Glass. I do plan on using the one I got for an upcoming build, though.
-I looked up the part number on those side jacks a while back and, while they were close, I remember that there was something slightly off about them, so I just went with the ones in the first post.
All told, most of the price difference is down to the faceplate and the box. If you want a brass faceplate, you'll need to pay more. And if you're getting the faceplate from a run here (as it seems difficult for most people to find a local place that's up to the task) then you'll want an official Wheatley Box to ensure that it fits properly.
Your Farnsworth looks great and anyone that doesn't insist on a brass faceplate would do well to go your route. But that doesn't make spending more on the project wrong.
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Sorry to be rude but you are the one that is way off. Going by the links to the parts on page 1 of this thread I checked on the prices of each individual part and as I stated above the cost of the box,faceplate, both knobs, the red lens, the glass dome (the ford auto glass), and the side jacks, all parts including shipping totalled over $167.00 and those prices were current as of yesterday. I didnt use substitutes like you talked about in your posts, those are the links from the beginning of this thread. Also, Im not on here to argue, Im just trying to give people some information and that is that this build can be expensive if you dont find alternatives to those officially listed. Jeez, chill out already.
***also, I asked for the dimensions for the inside of the wheatley box and the radius dimension of the corners so I can compare them to the box i got. I have a lead on some boxes that look almost exactly like the wheatley and cost less than $15 shipped but I dont want to post a link until I know if they can be used with the faceplate made for the wheatley.***
Re: Warehouse 13 Prop Research - The Farnsworth
Where did you find the vacuum formed pieces for the main screen?
brain here is a lens I found that is about right. It came from a hand held illuminated magnifier. I needed extra screens for the Claudia Farnsworth and ony bought two from the original run of them. On the right is the vac formed one I am using for this Farnsworth and you can just see on the left a lens from a Winnie the Pooh tap light.
here is the tap light lens compared with the vac formed one. It is a pretty good fit though the profile is higher.
this is the whole tap light
Where did you find the vacuum formed pieces for the main screen?
There was a run in the junkyard some time ago a year or two. I don't know that any have popped up since then.
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DARTH SABER
Master Member
Does anyone know the diameter of that winnie the pooh tap light? Is it accurate to the correct size, and where do you find them?
While the Ford lens is glass and more authentic, the fact is that the Farnsworth lens is supposed to drop off at the edges, and has a lip at the base of the drop, just like the Pooh tap light and the vaccuformed lens.
While the Ford lens is glass and more authentic, the fact is that the Farnsworth lens is supposed to drop off at the edges, and has a lip at the base of the drop, just like the Pooh tap light and the vaccuformed lens.
Gareee
Well-Known Member
We compared dimensions with our farnsworths on the QMX one at thier booth at dragoncon last year, and the dimensions matched up perfectly, at least to what QMX is producing.
We could have gotten brass faceplates done instead of the plastic, but that presents two issues:
You either need to try to cleanly cut the openings in it manually (Which quite a few people here have botched up.)
You need to have a second etched disc done for the insert center dial, and glue that to the back of the brass plate.
I wanted to get clean cuts, and plastic did that fine. The plastic we used it normally used to make plaques with what looks like brass plates. We looked at both side by side, and the difference was very minimal.
My only issue with our faceplates I had was I just eyballed the outer rounded corners, and had no idea how to match the curve in illustrator, so I had to use a orbital sander on the corners, which took just a few minutes.
People have purchased the brass wheatly since we've assumed it wa what was actually used, but if you follow the later discussion, in many cases, aluminum is seen in the chipping on the box... so the actual prop farnsworths are both aluminum and brass. it could be wheatlys, or it could be the aluminum cheaper counterparts.
Neither is right or wrong since we've never gotten any confirmation officialy what was used.
Cyborg65 wrote:
Yes, if you go by the original post from 3 years ago that hasn't been updated for a year now, the prices are high.. but much of the information was supplimented later in the thread, and additional sources for identical items discovered. I think I found most around page 30 or so, and I was building mine around page 65. And we are now on page 75.
Just like any other research, later research can replace it or completely overturn the original results.
No where in the original post is is confirmed that thse are the exact parts used in the original props.. these are best guesses, period. That means later information could actually be the original parts used. No one knows, and the prop builders are not revealing that information. (And won't, since they are being produced commercially now for public sale.)
So its anyone's guess which parts are the *real* ones, and which are not. But the bottom line, is at the end of the day, if what you end up with looks authentic, thats ALL that counts.
Which is great! The point of the thread is to help each other to build the replicas as closely as possible to the actual props. In many cases, props also change over the course of a show (Like the glass tubes on the tesla guns being replaced by acrylic replicas in later seasons for durability.)
Odds are there are no less than 10 prop farnsworths, (And probably closer to 20, since QMX was mass producing them.) Some are originals, and some build in later seasons. Each will differ from the others, because these are props. They don't care if they are exact replicas on the show, because they are only seen for a few seconds each. As long as they look reasonably close to the others, thats fine for prop work.
Since Eddie handles the actual props all the time, and mistook ours for improved QMX replicas (which are supposedly exact duplicates) we are quite satisfied with ours.
My point, was you were wrongly warning people that this is a very expensive undertaking, when actually it doesn't have to be if you spend time instead of money on it. Maybe once you've been here longer, and gotten more experience under your belt, you'll understand more.
Just don't pop in claiming the sky is green, when it fact its blue. I don't claim to be an expert by any means. I just present the information I learned when building our replicas.
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vistaVision
Sr Member
A little late for a few of you, but Allied Electronics (where many of us are getting the "center knob") also carries the red lens. It's a $0.42 part! As we can all see, the shipping costs on these few parts is getting crazy. If you order both parts from Allied, at least you'll save a few dollars. Red lens part number is 70152508
vistaVision
Sr Member
Well said!
DARTH SABER
Master Member
Any word on those Winnie the Pooh taplight dimensions?
Are they accurate?
Are they accurate?
PeterLC
Sr Member
Were you after the diameter of the whole light or just the clear part? I think it is still sitting in a drawwer here. As I said the "dome" is more pronounced on the tap light but it would work in a pinch. I think the Disney Snow White lights and a couple of others are the same units.
My point, was you were wrongly warning people that this is a very expensive undertaking, when actually it doesn't have to be if you spend time instead of money on it. Maybe once you've been here longer, and gotten more experience under your belt, you'll understand more.
Just don't pop in claiming the sky is green, when it fact its blue. I don't claim to be an expert by any means. I just present the information I learned when building our replicas.[/QUOTE]
I guess you didnt do well in reading comprehension in school. A person that newly comes to this thread and see's the first page of official links to parts is probably going to use them and as jedibugs also stated his build tally was $214. I also stated that I go to the flea market and check ebay for parts and look for alternatives to the higher priced parts. because I dont want to use your suggestions you are getting mad? I got my box today and it was $8.77 shipped, that saved $43 dollars off my build. I also checked the site you reccomended for the box and they no longer carry it. I have the link you left for the glass dome but I prefer to find one with a lip on it for mounting like the vacuum formed ones. As for making the brass plate, the spot where the numbers are for the dial does not have to be made in 2 seperate pieces. If you put it in a mill and turn down a 1" circle about .010" deep it should more that creat the same effect and this is very simple to do for any machine shop and possibly done at home with a drill press and a proper sanding stone but I havent made any attempts yet.
This site is about sharing information and advice and that is what I was doing. because I wasnt sharing YOUR information is no reason to bash my posts.
Just don't pop in claiming the sky is green, when it fact its blue. I don't claim to be an expert by any means. I just present the information I learned when building our replicas.[/QUOTE]
I guess you didnt do well in reading comprehension in school. A person that newly comes to this thread and see's the first page of official links to parts is probably going to use them and as jedibugs also stated his build tally was $214. I also stated that I go to the flea market and check ebay for parts and look for alternatives to the higher priced parts. because I dont want to use your suggestions you are getting mad? I got my box today and it was $8.77 shipped, that saved $43 dollars off my build. I also checked the site you reccomended for the box and they no longer carry it. I have the link you left for the glass dome but I prefer to find one with a lip on it for mounting like the vacuum formed ones. As for making the brass plate, the spot where the numbers are for the dial does not have to be made in 2 seperate pieces. If you put it in a mill and turn down a 1" circle about .010" deep it should more that creat the same effect and this is very simple to do for any machine shop and possibly done at home with a drill press and a proper sanding stone but I havent made any attempts yet.
This site is about sharing information and advice and that is what I was doing. because I wasnt sharing YOUR information is no reason to bash my posts.
