Indeed... But IMHO I think its more fun getting things as accurate as possible, which I thought was your motivation, otherwise I would have not commented. I'm only trying to be helpful but obviously you're not interested in listening to me, so I'll leave you be
I’m currently making a helmet too. The 3d print I used as a base for the helmet was quite inaccurate. I have decided to leave the vent off for now, until we get a PIC of the left hand side. But... I'm at the stage where I need to start adding the seam lines but I need advice as to the best way to make them clean and straight? Any ideas?
Awesome job! In the first photo you posted, it looks like there is some kind of tab on the top of the helmet. You didn't add it to your sculpt?
Sorry if I missed it in an earlier post.
Awesome job! In the first photo you posted, it looks like there is some kind of tab on the top of the helmet. You didn't add it to your sculpt?
Sorry if I missed it in an earlier post.
I almost forgot about this thread since the discussion on these has sort of unofficially moved over to the classifieds page. (I'd post a link but the mods would just delete it again.) But to fill you in, now that I know what those tabs are and look like, I've made a set and will be adding them in.
I almost forgot about this thread since the discussion on these has sort of unofficially moved over to the classifieds page. (I'd post a link but the mods would just delete it again.)....
I use Rebound 25 from Smooth-On. I like it because I only need a minimum amount to make a mold and I can peel it off the cast like a rubber glove. I can do 4 or 5 helmet molds from a single 1 gallon kit.
I use Rebound 25 from Smooth-On. I like it because I only need a minimum amount to make a mold and I can peel it off the cast like a rubber glove. I can do 4 or 5 helmet molds from a single 1 gallon kit.