Diamond Select Tricorder - sound board info

Yeah, sorry I didn't specify that my friend said soundboard was in the head -- and he said it was a pain trying to remove control panel plate -- in fact, he broke some of the pins that seat it in place when he removed it.

I wish I had more advice on what to do (or what he did) but all this info was shared to me thru a phone call -- he had a tric that was broken and in the process of fixing it, he discovered that the three different sounds (med, science and geo) appeared to all be on same circuit/sound board, and he figured out how to play them...and then suggested that it wouldn't be too hard to figure out way to get the ONE tricorder to alternate between playing all available sounds from the three "different" tricorder versions -- but he did not go into detail on how this could happen and, even if he did, I wouldn't understand any of it as my brain shuts down when such technical stuff is discussed -- just not part of my "vocabulary" so to speak.

BUT I thought info was worth sharing even in this vague form as I know there are others who are like Scotty and know how to pull stuff like this apart and tinker with it.
 
And here you go!

tcb1.jpg

tcb2.jpg

tcb3.jpg

tcb4.jpg

Yep. There's the "Geologi" and "Medical" markings.

Does this help?
 
And here you go!



tcb4.jpg

Yep. There's the "Geologi" and "Medical" markings.

Does this help?


Without being able to follow the traces or check things with multimeter, based on this picture, I see in that area...

three pads for two componants, most likely zero ohm resistor or for a solder bridge, both can serve as "jumpers", the larger pad is possibly ground, easy enough to check with a multimeter, both are presently DNI (Do not install), the parts designators look like 19 and 20.

Betting just bridge from one of the small pads to the larger one, and bam you got the sound.

again, that is from the picture, I can't examine it myself to feel 100 percent on that.

I would definately want DrMCoys friend to back that assesement up since he already did the experiment successfully.
 
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Aww! Sorry the photos weren't any help. Would you like me to remove all the wires and super glue to give you a more detailed look at the board?

In regards to the prying it open, it is possible, just be sure you use a very thin flat head screw driver. This sucker is glued to at least 3 points. One on the top right corner, one on the bottom left corner, and one just downward from the top right that's deeper in the casing.
 
Aww! Sorry the photos weren't any help. Would you like me to remove all the wires and super glue to give you a more detailed look at the board?

In regards to the prying it open, it is possible, just be sure you use a very thin flat head screw driver. This sucker is glued to at least 3 points. One on the top right corner, one on the bottom left corner, and one just downward from the top right that's deeper in the casing.


Oh no, the pics are a huge help, but I wouldnt want anyone to fry a board based on my visual quicky assesment. I need to pop mine open too and snorfle around it myself with a multimeter to feel a little more confident in putting jumpers in.
 
I'll see if I can get my friend to post -- he has a real old computer and therefore his access speeds are tremendously slow, so he therefore doesn't get on this forum too much. I keep teasing him to just get a Mac already. I'll see what I can do, but my guess is one of you guys figgers it out before I can get him to post what he knows.
 
Got mine open, it was a bear getting the faceplate off, there are four pins and the top left corner they used too much glue, but I did get it off without damaging the front of the faceplate for the most part, but it took great care prying with a skinny flat head screwdriver as recommded.
It could have gone in a bad way just as easy.

Ok, the big pad isn't ground, there is a voltage there. But that's not important.

I jumpered each small pad to the larger as labeled, they produced the sounds expected when jumpered.

So I will run wires from the pads down to the battery box, and get a switch for it. This will be pretty simple.

It's getting it apart without effing it up that is the trick. I didn't have to break down the whole tric, just enough to get the head out of it's pivot points.

And you better have some pointed tipped solder tips.
It's small work in there.


And if I played with everything right, forget the "trick" functions of the Science tric after you close the head. Nothing happened configured in the other modes.



Oddly enough in geologic mode, the center button makes the normal scanning sound and spins the moire.
There is no moire on the geo tric. So I guess they will replace the motor with a light??



PS, I would recommend fine gauge wire to solder to the board. Something along the lines of thin transformer wire.
 
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That's really cool. Thanks for sharing.

My question is: when you jumpered to the geological pad, does that totally override the original "Spock/Science" set of effects? It's been a long time since I played with electronics, but I might try this someday. The Majel Barrett computer voice is highly awesome and a much better fit.
 
That's really cool. Thanks for sharing.

My question is: when you jumpered to the geological pad, does that totally override the original "Spock/Science" set of effects? It's been a long time since I played with electronics, but I might try this someday. The Majel Barrett computer voice is highly awesome and a much better fit.


When you jumper it, it puts the chip into the mode as long as the jumper is present.

Take out the jumper, goes back to science setting.
 
Here is where I ended up using a mini three way toggle switch.
It is small enough that the doors all move freely in that area, and you can change modes easy enough on the fly.
IMG_4753.jpg
 
Outstanding work, CessnaDriver!

That's a beautifully done mod! Thanks for the clear, concise instruction and great pics + video. Your time and skill are much appreciated.


:thumbsup
 
Cant see it .The video requires a password.
i would like to do this mod to my science tricorder.
 
Hey does anyone have shots of what the board looks like after it's been jumpered. I'm having a tough time figuring out what to jumper where.

Thanks!

Alan
 
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