Got mine open, it was a bear getting the faceplate off, there are four pins and the top left corner they used too much glue, but I did get it off without damaging the front of the faceplate for the most part, but it took great care prying with a skinny flat head screwdriver as recommded.
It could have gone in a bad way just as easy.
Ok, the big pad isn't ground, there is a voltage there. But that's not important.
I jumpered each small pad to the larger as labeled, they produced the sounds expected when jumpered.
So I will run wires from the pads down to the battery box, and get a switch for it. This will be pretty simple.
It's getting it apart without effing it up that is the trick. I didn't have to break down the whole tric, just enough to get the head out of it's pivot points.
And you better have some pointed tipped solder tips.
It's small work in there.
And if I played with everything right, forget the "trick" functions of the Science tric after you close the head. Nothing happened configured in the other modes.
Oddly enough in geologic mode, the center button makes the normal scanning sound and spins the moire.
There is no moire on the geo tric. So I guess they will replace the motor with a light??
PS, I would recommend fine gauge wire to solder to the board. Something along the lines of thin transformer wire.