CS&T WorldCon Detective Special
- Thread starter airhead
- Start date
KarlBud420
Sr Member
He's saving it for the uber, uber-accurate .1 model. :lol
I would have liked to seen the screws there as well, but I'm still hyped up over seeing the green LEDs working on this newest version.
Bruce
I would have liked to seen the screws there as well, but I'm still hyped up over seeing the green LEDs working on this newest version.
Bruce
Again these are options, and Thanks to Mark, we found out that they are set screws.
I am doing about 5 versions, depending on the buyer's wishes.
So YES it is the Uber-Accurate Model.
By doing these versions I can make the Hair Splitting version YOU feel is right.
So order it your way, and be happy.
Rich
I am doing about 5 versions, depending on the buyer's wishes.
So YES it is the Uber-Accurate Model.
By doing these versions I can make the Hair Splitting version YOU feel is right.
So order it your way, and be happy.
Rich
I like the flexibility of Rich's proposed "custom" build-ups. One question Rich, assuming for the sake of argument that the screws were in the prop from day one, any ideas as to their purpose? Still to work a toothpick switch? Aesthetic? Maybe the simplest explanation is the best, and they just hold something in place...
androidandy
Sr Member
I am wondering if they were contacts to be used to either connect to a battery or a Squib sinc to time the blood packs and explosions from the gun?
airhead
Sr Member
Here's a comparison, if nobody minds me using part of one of KT's pics, of the toothpick holes on the RAC replica and the screws on the hero. If I get ambitious, it doesn't look like much trouble to add a couple of bits out of the parts bin to add that last bit of authenticity. I don't want to "customize" the new blaster permenantly, but either a press fit or attachment from the inside should be o.k. for looks. I wonder if the screws originally acted like an old-time pushbutton light switch - push one screw for on and the other for off. I could see how on that scale the internal rocker switch may have not held up. But I think that Rich may have knowledge of how the hero was set up.
<div align="center">
</div>
airhead
<div align="center">
airhead
dropshipbob
Master Member
I once had a RAC stunt pistol, and it had those toothpick holes near the ammo magazine. Those were used to activate the red LED's, but I can't be sure if he did that as a way to incorporate some detail that the original had and at the same time, make an access point for the lights, but I'm sure he will come along and let us know.
ON the holes.
First the real Styer Ammo housing does not have these holes, nor any marks.
Second the stunt props had these two holes.
Third the just happen to line up with a Dip micro rocker switch.
Forth, the prop master said that was how they truned it on and off.
So if all the above is true, why add screws? My guess is the switch (which may have been glued in making it hard to replace) starts to fail and would not stay in the on setting.
One problem is IF they used the recessed type of switch (like I did, it made glueing it in easy) the screw would not work, unless they cut points into the screws.
If they used a rasied switch the screws could work.
And another point, I found switches that were both recessed and came tape sealed, I when to the tape sealed after messing up many switches when glueing them in. Glue would get into the switch.
Last, when a movie is filming there is no time to send a prop back to the shop, I have seen all kinds of “fixes” done by the prop master on the set.
And tricks, on a union set I have seen a propmaster use colored hair pray to “Paint” something, he can not use real paint as there is a union painter on set, (and will bill for any painting done…) but he can use hair spray….
Rich
First the real Styer Ammo housing does not have these holes, nor any marks.
Second the stunt props had these two holes.
Third the just happen to line up with a Dip micro rocker switch.
Forth, the prop master said that was how they truned it on and off.
So if all the above is true, why add screws? My guess is the switch (which may have been glued in making it hard to replace) starts to fail and would not stay in the on setting.
One problem is IF they used the recessed type of switch (like I did, it made glueing it in easy) the screw would not work, unless they cut points into the screws.
If they used a rasied switch the screws could work.
And another point, I found switches that were both recessed and came tape sealed, I when to the tape sealed after messing up many switches when glueing them in. Glue would get into the switch.
Last, when a movie is filming there is no time to send a prop back to the shop, I have seen all kinds of “fixes” done by the prop master on the set.
And tricks, on a union set I have seen a propmaster use colored hair pray to “Paint” something, he can not use real paint as there is a union painter on set, (and will bill for any painting done…) but he can use hair spray….
Rich
androidandy
Sr Member
They simply could have had the same problems we have with having wires connected to the gun and to the clip, they may have kept coming loose when they changed batteries and then need to be resoldered. By putting the swich into the clip it would keep all the wires together and allow them to switch clips if necessary.
Not to hijack this thread - which I realize is to show off a recently completed version of Rich's latest C&S - but weren't we due for some new information on this prop by now? Rich, what happened with the whole "owner of the original giving an interview" thing? Or was that killed in connection with his request to have the photos of the original withdrawn?
Walter
Master Member
A comment on this specific piece:
Rich creates the 'ultimate' version of the CSTXYZ PKD based off of the best reference available (the hero) and still details are blatantly left out??? I don't get it. I can understand the wires (or wire options... ect ect ect), but whatever 'reasoning' you have conjured, this CSTXYZ PKD is not the ultimate, but just another Coyle interpretation. Do people have to pay again for an 'ultimate' 8.2019910991a for the details to be true to the original?
Great, there are more options being offered by Coyle, but the thing is not the bill of goods that people were sold on. It might look nice, but if I paid $500 for the 'ultimate' I would be pretty ticked.
-Bryan
Rich creates the 'ultimate' version of the CSTXYZ PKD based off of the best reference available (the hero) and still details are blatantly left out??? I don't get it. I can understand the wires (or wire options... ect ect ect), but whatever 'reasoning' you have conjured, this CSTXYZ PKD is not the ultimate, but just another Coyle interpretation. Do people have to pay again for an 'ultimate' 8.2019910991a for the details to be true to the original?
Great, there are more options being offered by Coyle, but the thing is not the bill of goods that people were sold on. It might look nice, but if I paid $500 for the 'ultimate' I would be pretty ticked.
-Bryan
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bbabich @ Mar 22 2007, 04:46 PM) [snapback]1445319[/snapback]</div>
No worries bryan. Those who purchase this version of the "ultimate" gun will get a discount off their purchase of the next "ulimate" gun version when it becomes available. I think you're being unfair :lol
No worries bryan. Those who purchase this version of the "ultimate" gun will get a discount off their purchase of the next "ulimate" gun version when it becomes available. I think you're being unfair :lol
Everyone has an idea of what they want.
Everyone has an idea of what they saw.
I am offering many options so you can have what you feel is the right gun.
The main point is the gun as found rusting and old looking vs. what many feel what it was like during the filming.
IF you want the rusting, wire showing, scuffed, with the screws in the ammo housing, the Weaver scope screw and the switch in the ammo clip, paint rubbed off the lower pistol frame and scratches on the butt plate, order that model.
IF you want a model with out rust and all the above then order that version.
IF you feel that the hidden “toothpick” switch is more real and may have been used early in filming and looks more real to you and the round head screw not the weaver scope screw and the hidden wires looks more real, then order that version of the model.
IF you want the model with out rust with just the hidden wires order it that way.
I only offer my interpretation as a real professional prop maker who worked for 12 years making real movie props as my opinion, but I offer all versions so you can get what YOU feel is right.
In fact what I am doing here is NOT forcing you to buy MY INTERPERATION I am offering to build YOURS...
All the gun parts have been redone to make it as accurate as possible.
These small details are minor detailing and paint finishes.
And upcoming changes will be upgradeable if any happen.
There will be no newer model, this is it.
I have spent months and lots of money making the best I can, if you not happy with it donÂ’t order.
Rich
Everyone has an idea of what they saw.
I am offering many options so you can have what you feel is the right gun.
The main point is the gun as found rusting and old looking vs. what many feel what it was like during the filming.
IF you want the rusting, wire showing, scuffed, with the screws in the ammo housing, the Weaver scope screw and the switch in the ammo clip, paint rubbed off the lower pistol frame and scratches on the butt plate, order that model.
IF you want a model with out rust and all the above then order that version.
IF you feel that the hidden “toothpick” switch is more real and may have been used early in filming and looks more real to you and the round head screw not the weaver scope screw and the hidden wires looks more real, then order that version of the model.
IF you want the model with out rust with just the hidden wires order it that way.
I only offer my interpretation as a real professional prop maker who worked for 12 years making real movie props as my opinion, but I offer all versions so you can get what YOU feel is right.
In fact what I am doing here is NOT forcing you to buy MY INTERPERATION I am offering to build YOURS...
All the gun parts have been redone to make it as accurate as possible.
These small details are minor detailing and paint finishes.
And upcoming changes will be upgradeable if any happen.
There will be no newer model, this is it.
I have spent months and lots of money making the best I can, if you not happy with it donÂ’t order.
Rich
Walter
Master Member
No worries there, I didn't order one.
I just don't get calling this the 'ultimate' if the 'ultimate' really is not reflective of the actual piece. I am not talking about paint schemes.
There is something wrong with a situation where someone hands me a glass of sand and tries to convince me it is water.
Airhead and others, I hope you enjoy this piece.
-Bryan
I just don't get calling this the 'ultimate' if the 'ultimate' really is not reflective of the actual piece. I am not talking about paint schemes.
There is something wrong with a situation where someone hands me a glass of sand and tries to convince me it is water.
Airhead and others, I hope you enjoy this piece.
-Bryan
It is as accurate as possable, your fussing about two screws and the fact I offer it YOUR WAY???
So you want me to make it totaly like the rusty found prop?
Order it that way.
No one has wanted the two screws so far, I do have one new order which is asking about them and he pointed out that they are set screws.
And I am offering to include them for those that want them.
I do not know how I can make it better.
Rich
So you want me to make it totaly like the rusty found prop?
Order it that way.
No one has wanted the two screws so far, I do have one new order which is asking about them and he pointed out that they are set screws.
And I am offering to include them for those that want them.
I do not know how I can make it better.
Rich
Similar threads
