Corellian Cruiser Resilient

mung

Sr Member
This is a very old project of mine started after I saw Star Wars Ep1 in 1999 and heavily inspired by the Radiant VII.
As is usual for me it was not a replica but my own take on it.
I never completed this unamed project as I was never very happy with how it was looking and over the years bits were hacked off and cannibalised for other models.
The front cockpit section, a bedside lamp housing, was chipped off and used for a different spaceship that was completed a long time ago.
I got quite carried away on this initially, and rented a welder to make up a steel spine with 6 mounting locations. The steel was 1" or 25mm square section with 1/2" whitworth nuts welded on at mounting locations top, bottom, left, right, front and back.
A section of figure eight electrical cable was then let out at each mounting point and carried back to the centre from which it then extended out to the cockpit area and the engines which I intended to light. It was mostly constructed of 2mm high impact styrene sheet ( HIPS).


This was how the remains of the hull looked in 2013.

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The front end was made from two plastic measuring cups joined to a longer plastic tumbler with a now mostly obscured basketball design on it.
That basketball tumbler was in turn glued to a green plastic cup which then blended back into the main hull structure.
Below is the void where the front rounded "bedside lamp" shape sat as the cockpit, later removed for reuse on the other model.

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A 1/72 Matchbox Panzer kit hull is featured on the side,

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The engine section employed 6 plastic icecream scoops mated to 6 plastic Parmesan shakers in a very unwieldy six engine arrangement.
At some later stage I hacked of the two outer engines to see if it would improve it...it didn't.
That engine section made its way to an entirely different spaceship model some years ago that is still sitting on a shelf unfinished.

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3 years later in 2016 I found myself unemployed with plenty of time on my hands but no money for modeling supplies and while cleaning up my shed and started to re-evaluate some old projects lying around.
This model in particular seemed to cry out for restoration and I started a build series on my blogsite rcscifi.blogspot.com.
This 2016 incomplete model page has become the second most popular page visited, a statistic which continues to baffle me.

At this point I named the model Resilient as it had bounced back from the scrap heap to live again.
I set to work and pulled the main surfaces apart, stripped out the heavy steel spine and laid out the major parts on the ground with a pvc pipe spine, PVC downpipe component engines, cardboard mockup engine mount shape and a toy rocket from a charity shop purchase.

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Satisfied with the proportions I started the revised construction.
The engine mount wing was cut from 10mm thick foamed PVC sheet, lightweight easy to cut and relatively strong.
The 65mm (i.d.) PVC pipe spine was slotted to allow the engine section to slide into position and shaped to fit the engine pods.
Each engine Pod is made from a 90 to 65mm PVC down pipe reducer, a short bit of 90mm storm water pipe and then a 90 to 75mm storm water reducer.
You can see in the pictures above I had a short piece of 75mm storm water pipe in the ends of the engine, this I decided was unnecessary as they made the engines too long so they were discarded.
Inside the two outer pods a clear styrene dome was fitted inside the downpipe reducer.
These domes were cheap Christmas bauble decorations which come in two halves which you can put things inside.

The outer engine pods were also partly slotted to make a strong fixing to the wing, glued with thick super glue.

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My engine arrangement is quite a bit smaller in proportion to the one on the Radiant.
Both the diameter of the engines is smaller and the spacing apart is less.
This is due to the sizes of PVC components I had handy but I think it looks fine.
When you look at the actual Radiant model from the top down (see the small picture in the Sculpting a galaxy book) the engines and their spacing is huge.
 
I made cones of 1mm styrene to fill the back of the engine pods and a couple of pvc pipe rings to hold the LED down lights for the engine lighting.
The cones I had to make a few times as the black styrene I was using had absorbed some UV from a window nearby and got a bit brittle, it kept breaking.
In fact one I positioned correctly and proceeded to glue into position with thin CA glue.
A series of cracking sounds was heard and the whole cone fell into pieces, crazed and shattered by the thin super glue.
I have found this to be the case before, thin super glue can crack thin styrene particularly if it is slightly aged.
Thick super glue does not do this so I used that instead.

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Ribs were fashioned from more 10mm foamed PVC sheet for the main hull section and slid along the spine and glued to the bottom 2mm styrene hull shell. The recessed sides were built up from 2mm styrene. Strips of 2mm styrene are added to the tops of the side panels as doublers so there is a bigger gluing surface for the top plate and the edges were sanded flush.

All the PVC to PVC glue joints are made using super glue and roughing up both surfaces with coarse sandpaper. This produces a very strong bond if done well and in my experience the PVC will break before the bond does.
Foamed PVC glues extremely well with super glue as its edges present a slightly porous surface to the glue.
The top surface I still rough up as although it has a fine texture it is a bit glossy.
The PVC to Styrene joints are done the same way but are not quite as strong.

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A mounting and power point block was made from laminated PVC sheet with two circles matching the i.d. of the PVC spine.
The block constructed from 4 layers of 10mm PVC was drilled and tapped M12 for a M12 support bolt, the longest I could find at the hardware store at 280mm long.
As this model is a bit longer at just over 1m, a bigger diameter support rod than I usually employ was called for.
The cup head bolt was mounted in some round glued scraps of plywood onto a chipboard base as a work stand.
Later I intend to make a nicer looking display stand with another M12 bolt.
A wiring harness was then made up to distribute the power to the engines and the cockpit and soldered to the dc power connectors (top and bottom) which were press fitted into a hole in the block, the wire leading out a adjoining hole in the back.

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The mounting block was then slid into the PVC spine tube and glued with thin super glue through the engine mount slots and the support rod access holes in the spine.

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The next step was to glue on the pre-existing top hull surface using Methylene Chloride solvent ( a known carcinogen) which I use for all styrene, ABS and acrylic joins to each other.

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Putting it all together temporarily I found the engines were not sitting level so some remedial work was done on the slots to correct this problem and get them back into position.
It does not seem to matter how much effort I put into keeping everything aligned errors always creep in and fixes are required.
This is normal, it would take an elaborate jig to keep things square and I don't have the resources for that.

After some consideration I decided the toy rocket was too large and out of proportion to the rest of the ship and searched through the plastic shapes crate until I settled on the hammerhead arrangement that was on the model in the first place but with one of the acrylic cups swapped out for a cutdown acrylic wineglass.
A 2mm styrene cockpit ridge was then constructed to fit.
The top of the cockpit has been made removable for access to the power for the lighting and the fitting of a cockpit with occupants.
I determined that 1/48th scale was about right so I have some 1/48 pilot figures to go in there.

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The window surrounds are made from black 1mm styrene.
It took a few tries before I was happy with the sizing, you can see some of the rejects below.
You can also see that The corners are drilled out with a 4mm drill and then the opening carefully cut out between the holes, a bit of filing or sanding to tidy up.
These inserts are were then cemented to the perspex window pieces which were already glued to the inner cockpit surfaces.

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Here was the project in 2016 with all the bits in place and major structural construction done.

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It sat around in the shed for another 3 years until now when in 2019 I have picked it up again for a push to completion.
 
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I have started to detail the upper surface.

I was given a box of old broken transformer toys which took me a long time to disassemble into their constituent bits keeping the styrene and ABS parts (as well as the screws) and junking the rest. You will see a few of those bits show up on this project.

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I also started on the Com tower using one of the small battery powered push light domes for the dish.
I have some other smaller dishes to add to this tower in keeping with the Ep 1 Radiant VII influence.

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I decided to start filling in the gap around the engine circumference and so needed to flip the model over to complete the recessed centre band. While it was flipped over on the work stand I thought I may as well make a start on the detailing of the underside.
Model kit parts and Transformer toy bits are employed along with evergreen strips and textured sheet. Added to that is various thicknesses of styrene sheet, foamed PVC sheet and two sizes of single core electrical wire piping.

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The support rod mount and DC power connector are behind a removable hatch held in place with a magnet.

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The red part in the middle acts as a convenient handle to grip the hatch and the two round parts either side are separately removable so the hatch can be replaced with the support rod and power cable in place aligned through the matching holes.

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A lot more still to do but all in all I had a pretty productive weekend considering this side was completely blank before I started.

Thanks for looking.
More soon...
 
The length is 1020mm and the widest point which is across the engines is 480mm.
Or for those still languishing in imperial measurements its about 40 inches long and just under 19 inches wide.
 
Very cool project! The main body made me think Aurora from Stargate Atlantis when I first looked.....cool design of that and your build!
 

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