clone trooper costume 3d print
- Thread starter alfa069
- Start date
TazMan2000
Master Member
I prefer the phase 1, but if you're going to make a helmet from that one, you won't get screen accuracy because the Clonetroopers were all CGi, I believe. The phase 2 version had actors wearing costumes.
Both versions had several colour schemes, but I think it would come to personal preference. Which one would you like to print?
TazMan2000
Both versions had several colour schemes, but I think it would come to personal preference. Which one would you like to print?
TazMan2000
Both versions of the clones were all CGI, so screen accuracy to a physical costume isn't possible. I would think that Phase 2 would have more visibility out of the helmet? And you've got a great start on the blaster!
SB
SB
alfa069
New Member
i'll use rex helmet phase 2 from clone wars series because y can change front pieces for a regular phase 2.
i think, it's better than regular helmet phase 2, i don't know if im wrong.
if someone has done any version wereable and say me his expiriences, it could be great. im open to print the 3 version but i would print first the best confortable, wereable and visiblity from inside. if you don't undertand me i' ll try use other words.
ShotenDesign
New Member
i have printed phase 1 trooper, phase 1 clone pilot and a rex helmet all screen not animated and rex has the best visibility (i used the Galactic armory's rex helmet) and have tried on a phase 2 helm and found that because of where a humans eyes we get better peripheral vision but worse frontal as the high cheek bones in the phase 2 cut out the small window that we already have.
Darth Lars
Master Member
Will you be making idealised armour from the Clone Wars series, or the "realistic" armour from the movies?
They are quite different.
I don't know too much about the Clone Wars-style, but the "realistic" movie-style is definitely not wearable if completely screen-accurate. First of all, the vacuuformed kits that have existed have been made in different sizes, and then the parts have had to be trimmed and joined to fit the wearer. The shin armour often has the scallop in the back as a separate piece, without which it wouldn't be possible to fit the foot through the bottom.
Accurate movie-style helmets are often in multiple pieces held together with magnets because the neck ring on the underside of the helmet is otherwise too narrow/short. Licensed replicas of movie clone helmets don't have neck rings.
I have neck rings on both my Phase 1 and Phase 2 movie-style helmets, which was possible with a couple of mods.
My Phase 1 helmet is slightly longer than screen-accurate overall, which allowed a long-enough neck-ring without it looking too weird. Before I found that I could build it that way, I had planned to build the neck ring as separate left and a right part at the expense of a seam in the front.
On my Phase 2 helmet the snout comes off leaving an opening from the back of the neck to the "teeth". By having the seam at the snout there is no added seam that is not in the original shape. The only concession to accuracy is that the neck ring is an U-shape instead of a circle: the difference is literally a few mm.
My helmets started out as casts that I modded by hand, but I would encourage you to check and tweak your 3D model if you can, before printing: that would be much easier.
Edit: There was an error earlier that switched the meaning of most of the post. I'm sorry.
They are quite different.
I don't know too much about the Clone Wars-style, but the "realistic" movie-style is definitely not wearable if completely screen-accurate. First of all, the vacuuformed kits that have existed have been made in different sizes, and then the parts have had to be trimmed and joined to fit the wearer. The shin armour often has the scallop in the back as a separate piece, without which it wouldn't be possible to fit the foot through the bottom.
Accurate movie-style helmets are often in multiple pieces held together with magnets because the neck ring on the underside of the helmet is otherwise too narrow/short. Licensed replicas of movie clone helmets don't have neck rings.
I have neck rings on both my Phase 1 and Phase 2 movie-style helmets, which was possible with a couple of mods.
My Phase 1 helmet is slightly longer than screen-accurate overall, which allowed a long-enough neck-ring without it looking too weird. Before I found that I could build it that way, I had planned to build the neck ring as separate left and a right part at the expense of a seam in the front.
On my Phase 2 helmet the snout comes off leaving an opening from the back of the neck to the "teeth". By having the seam at the snout there is no added seam that is not in the original shape. The only concession to accuracy is that the neck ring is an U-shape instead of a circle: the difference is literally a few mm.
My helmets started out as casts that I modded by hand, but I would encourage you to check and tweak your 3D model if you can, before printing: that would be much easier.
Edit: There was an error earlier that switched the meaning of most of the post. I'm sorry.
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the clone trooper dice made for battlefront 2 has been 3d printed and used before as real armor. They took the original design and fit it to an average real body so it's the best starting place for reference. You can find lots of people on etsy selling it.
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