Sooooo, the snap switch needs to be affixed to something solid in order for this to work. I drilled a beautiful small hole through the board around the wires/resistor area and just kept pushing the switch around down there 
Anyway, I also finally did the buttons. I used a coping saw to rip through it, and a dremel to straighten the cut. Coping saws are not easy to keep level, and my xacto razor saw had worn out. (see, this is why I want to invest in a small table saw or miter saw... any recommendations?)
I cut one long piece and separated it front, top and bottom to give the look of two buttons... since we still don't know what's up with them and it will reduce headaches when glueing. I tried to cut two pieces again and screwed them up anyway! The buttons I ended up with are exactly uneven like the original prop. Pic to come
Here they are flipped one way,
And then the other
Anyway, delrin is self lubricating when you cut it (I think) but it's also really hard. The surface has these layers or patterns in it, and they're hard to get out. The real prop buttons look like one glossy surface, so this is another test to see if the Delrin theory works. In comes my trusty metal files. I have some that are very fine, and well worn out. I used them, and it felt like nothing was happening.. until I looked at it. The patterns became blunter looking and shrunk the more I used the files.... until...
I used baking soda and dawn dish soap to really burnish the surface too.
it's so smooth and the edges are razor sharp!!! So I rubbed it with pledge furniture wax as a final thing.
Speaking of that, I drilled two holes for glue to gather and help grip the buttons themselves, and scratched the saber for good measure
Squished some E6000 on there... and I really had to push them down, and trim the excess which scratched up the face of the box... still have to get those out somehow.
the 1/4 by 1/4 Delrin was not a perfect square either, so I positioned the stock like the prop.. a little wider than it was tall. Not half bad!
Anyway, I also finally did the buttons. I used a coping saw to rip through it, and a dremel to straighten the cut. Coping saws are not easy to keep level, and my xacto razor saw had worn out. (see, this is why I want to invest in a small table saw or miter saw... any recommendations?)
I cut one long piece and separated it front, top and bottom to give the look of two buttons... since we still don't know what's up with them and it will reduce headaches when glueing. I tried to cut two pieces again and screwed them up anyway! The buttons I ended up with are exactly uneven like the original prop. Pic to come
Here they are flipped one way,
And then the other
Anyway, delrin is self lubricating when you cut it (I think) but it's also really hard. The surface has these layers or patterns in it, and they're hard to get out. The real prop buttons look like one glossy surface, so this is another test to see if the Delrin theory works. In comes my trusty metal files. I have some that are very fine, and well worn out. I used them, and it felt like nothing was happening.. until I looked at it. The patterns became blunter looking and shrunk the more I used the files.... until...
I used baking soda and dawn dish soap to really burnish the surface too.
it's so smooth and the edges are razor sharp!!! So I rubbed it with pledge furniture wax as a final thing.
Speaking of that, I drilled two holes for glue to gather and help grip the buttons themselves, and scratched the saber for good measure
Squished some E6000 on there... and I really had to push them down, and trim the excess which scratched up the face of the box... still have to get those out somehow.
the 1/4 by 1/4 Delrin was not a perfect square either, so I positioned the stock like the prop.. a little wider than it was tall. Not half bad!
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