BTTF Futaba Delorean Remote Project
- Thread starter DB537
- Start date
Oneminde
Well-Known Member
Cheesecakes are not for display, they should be eaten and enjoyed .. ha ha - but I am thinking about creating MyCheesecakeFactory Inc
But for the display itself, I solved the "problem" I had about the PCB pin to backplate - custom ofc, but I found a cheap solution that will work great.
Oneminde
Well-Known Member
- UPDATE -
- The display is now repaired. The visible air holes filled and is flush with the surface.
- This display will be used to create a casting-mold so that I can make copy's that I can work on. Since this is the only one, I cannot afford to mess with it.
- Once I can make copy's, they will be used to create one master display.
- This master display will be adjusted so that the PCB is flush against the surface + the added ridges (moved from front) will be adjusted together with the display itself so that the clear lid is not longer or shorter than the depth of the display itself.
- Once master display is made by using parts for the copy's, final PCB will be drafted.
- When master display and PCB is constructed and checked for perfect match, new master mould will be made.
- Back plate or bracket to hold PCB place will be manufactured + mould. Possibly milled from aluminum (master).
- This bracket will be a cast resin part that will be glued to the display itself - such a solution can be seen in one of the photos published in this tread.
- Before it is clued in place, all bulbs will be tested after they've been mounted on the PCB for reinsurance of full functionality including PCB-to-back bracket pins
- Cut and place diffusion film gel sheet.
- The display should now be complete.
*********************************************
- Next is to manufacture the main back bracket that contain the lugs I've showed you before. The hole is 1 mm in dm and I have selected 1.2 mm pins to assure a tight fit between the display and bracket.
- This item will consist of 4 parts. 1. Plate that is facing the display. 2. Metal sheet so that the bracket can be mounted to the main aluminum frame mounted on the remote. 3. Part that contains the solder lug, the section where the pins becomes attached. 4. This part is the back lid or plate that contains 9 groves for the lug itself. The whole package will be glued and sealed. All parts need to be manufactured from scratch. Including master, mould and castings.
- Display and bracket will be assembled and tested.
- Replication of Stanley Electronics Inc - 7 segment incandescent light emitting diode display (long name) should now be complete and ready to be enjoyed.
********************************
This is all the steps involved so that everyone knows. I am also currently burdened with a huge pile if bills that I need to take care of for the next two months. I will probably not be able to afford purchasing casting silicone and resin. Technically, 2 months would be fine to complete this display, but unfortunately, the entire project has been moved equal amount of time. This will give me the opportunity to work with the drawings I need to manufacture for the parts and initial back-bracket will probably need to be milled out of aluminum since it will contain critical positioning of holes and groves for the lug itself.
So sorry guy and girls if anyone was expecting this to happen swiftly. This is the best I can do and I assure you that I want a top notch product. If you want this product as much as I do, I am sure you would argue the same.
If one can get the best, then don't settle for less.
- The display is now repaired. The visible air holes filled and is flush with the surface.
- This display will be used to create a casting-mold so that I can make copy's that I can work on. Since this is the only one, I cannot afford to mess with it.
- Once I can make copy's, they will be used to create one master display.
- This master display will be adjusted so that the PCB is flush against the surface + the added ridges (moved from front) will be adjusted together with the display itself so that the clear lid is not longer or shorter than the depth of the display itself.
- Once master display is made by using parts for the copy's, final PCB will be drafted.
- When master display and PCB is constructed and checked for perfect match, new master mould will be made.
- Back plate or bracket to hold PCB place will be manufactured + mould. Possibly milled from aluminum (master).
- This bracket will be a cast resin part that will be glued to the display itself - such a solution can be seen in one of the photos published in this tread.
- Before it is clued in place, all bulbs will be tested after they've been mounted on the PCB for reinsurance of full functionality including PCB-to-back bracket pins
- Cut and place diffusion film gel sheet.
- The display should now be complete.
*********************************************
- Next is to manufacture the main back bracket that contain the lugs I've showed you before. The hole is 1 mm in dm and I have selected 1.2 mm pins to assure a tight fit between the display and bracket.
- This item will consist of 4 parts. 1. Plate that is facing the display. 2. Metal sheet so that the bracket can be mounted to the main aluminum frame mounted on the remote. 3. Part that contains the solder lug, the section where the pins becomes attached. 4. This part is the back lid or plate that contains 9 groves for the lug itself. The whole package will be glued and sealed. All parts need to be manufactured from scratch. Including master, mould and castings.
- Display and bracket will be assembled and tested.
- Replication of Stanley Electronics Inc - 7 segment incandescent light emitting diode display (long name) should now be complete and ready to be enjoyed.
********************************
This is all the steps involved so that everyone knows. I am also currently burdened with a huge pile if bills that I need to take care of for the next two months. I will probably not be able to afford purchasing casting silicone and resin. Technically, 2 months would be fine to complete this display, but unfortunately, the entire project has been moved equal amount of time. This will give me the opportunity to work with the drawings I need to manufacture for the parts and initial back-bracket will probably need to be milled out of aluminum since it will contain critical positioning of holes and groves for the lug itself.
So sorry guy and girls if anyone was expecting this to happen swiftly. This is the best I can do and I assure you that I want a top notch product. If you want this product as much as I do, I am sure you would argue the same.
If one can get the best, then don't settle for less.
Last edited:
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
Sounds great. I ave been working on the back boxes, should have enough parts to make up 5 at least. Getting some wire ordered soon too, hopefully screen accurate. I cut into my finger tip real well with a cutting disc on a peanut grinder over a week ago and am getting my stitches out tomorrow. Hopefully ill be able to get on it more when my finger gets better.
Oneminde
Well-Known Member
You shouldn't cut yourself, didn't you'r momma teach you that when you where a kid
Btw, do you have a working prototype ?
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
No working prototype yet, been working on it though. It might help having all the parts to do a whole mockup, so I'm trying to secure some displays one way or another.
Oneminde
Well-Known Member
Just get standard types for the proto and adjust for the one I am working on later. You have the 5vdc 60mA for the bulbs now, so you know what you need to change for that mod.
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
Yea, true, I know.
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
Update! I have a working prototype circuit and so far its going well. I am trying to get acceleration control now. In the meantime i have the ability to move the joystick forward and the count start climbing, if i let off it quickly starts falling back to zero. I currently have it freezing on 99 until you let off and it drops back to zero gradually. I can make it stop at 88, but this way if it can go beyond it you can try and slow it to stay on 88, i hope.
Oneminde
Well-Known Member
Heads up. We wana see a videoclip when you are done with the prototype stage
Scotophor
Active Member
Are you familiar with video games on PC's? In their joystick calibration menus, they often have a setting called "deadband", which is usually a definable area surrounding the center of a joystick's travel, within which the input to the game is forced to be exactly the center value. I'm thinking you could program something similar, but not in the center of the stick's travel. For example, you could set it up so when the stick is anywhere in the region of 80 to 95%, the counter will roll up to 88.0 and hold there. If the stick is pushed up farther, the display would then resume climbing to 99.9 or whatever. For realistic control, you would also have to incorporate translation for the regions outside the deadband. For example, if 80% input gives a readout of 88, you don't want 79% to give a readout of 79, you need to translate it either mathematically or by a table so it comes out as 86 or 87. Of course you could make the deadband smaller if that seems more appropriate.
Last edited:
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
While that isnt a bad idea and all, it's prob not what I'm going to do. This is all based off of what I believe the functionality should be, by my interpretation of it from the movie. It's going to be better then anything we have had available yet.
Scotophor
Active Member
Well, in the movie it seemed that the stick was directly connected to the DMC's throttle, while the readout was what the car's speedometer showed. Thus, when Doc did a brake-burnout, the readout on the remote climbed (unrealistically slowly), while the car was not even moving.
So for your replica remote, IMO the readout should always have some lag whenever the stick is moved... but where the stick is moved to should always determine what number the display will eventually settle at, except that if the throttle is all the way down, hitting the brake switch should make the displayed "speed" decay to zero more quickly. I don't know how you'd want to handle non-standard use of the controls such as the brake-burnout, or if the brake switch is engaged while the throttle control remains in some midway position, or continues to be manipulated.
I'm just saying that from a user standpoint, it will be easier to simulate a run at 88.0 mph, if there is at least some small deadband (perhaps as small as only +/- 1%) where the display will settle at and maintain that speed without any jitter and is fairly easy for the operator to find the "sweet spot". But of course it's your design so if you don't like that idea or if you have a better one, don't let me upset you.
So for your replica remote, IMO the readout should always have some lag whenever the stick is moved... but where the stick is moved to should always determine what number the display will eventually settle at, except that if the throttle is all the way down, hitting the brake switch should make the displayed "speed" decay to zero more quickly. I don't know how you'd want to handle non-standard use of the controls such as the brake-burnout, or if the brake switch is engaged while the throttle control remains in some midway position, or continues to be manipulated.
I'm just saying that from a user standpoint, it will be easier to simulate a run at 88.0 mph, if there is at least some small deadband (perhaps as small as only +/- 1%) where the display will settle at and maintain that speed without any jitter and is fairly easy for the operator to find the "sweet spot". But of course it's your design so if you don't like that idea or if you have a better one, don't let me upset you.
Last edited:
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
You're not upsetting me. I appreciate the feedback. Thing is you just can't please everybody and i could spend years modifying and changing it to fit everybody's needs. In the end its for me and a few others.
Mr_Sparkle
Well-Known Member
Chemicals are now ordered. Really looking forward to this.
So glad this is happening... Thanks Oneminde!
Oneminde
Well-Known Member
You are welcome. The first challenge is to produce the single display from the first re-cast, or should I say, re-cast of a re-cast of a re-cast .. that can take a while... LOL
I also figured out that the first mould of the 3 displays connected will not be in vain, it will be used to produce the unit for the digital speedometer on the dashboard. There, it does not matter if it is single or a trio. And besides, the pcb's on that unit can hold red LED's instead of the incandescent that will exist inside the single display. So over all, many good things happing here
woot woot
