Aves Putty & Paste

[Coffee Addict]

Good or Bad? What do you use for seams? I need something that doesn't shrink.

Roy

 

[PHArchivist]

Good or Bad? What do you use for seams? I need something that doesn't shrink.

Roy

Very good. Very robust. But a bit labor-intensive for simple seams.

Two-part putty. Have to knead and blend for two minutes. Gets REAL sticky/tacky. Not real easy to sand, as is harder than styrene and resin (in my experience)

I use it for larger voids. ALso can be used a s agreat bonding agent.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

I think I'm a dope at mixing the paste I bought, 'cause it keeps staying tacky no matter how I try to mix it - to me it seems like I'm hitting the 1:1 ratio... but apparently... I'm not, unless tacky is the way it's supposed to stay once cured, which just makes me wonder, why bother.

Never tried the putty... but doesn't sound like what I need.

 

[darth_myeek]

I use plumbing epoxy for large voids. It's kind of grainy for top surface details. Once applied (before setting) vicks vapor rub reduces tack and will allow you to blend/smooth it with a finger. Make sure to wash off the vicks afterward. Tamiya has a finer grained 2-part epoxy putty.

 

[Zombie_61]

For minor seams and slight gaps I use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty.

Pros: Easy to obtain (almost any auto parts store should carry it), ready to use right out of the tube, reasonably easy to use, can be smoothed if desired with acetone-based nail polish remover, sands easily.

Cons: Should only be used in small quantities and/or very thin surface applications for two reasons: First, shrinkage; the more you use, the greater the shrinkage. Second, large quantities can warp and/or distort thin styrene as it cures; I don't know if this is caused by a chemical reaction, or if the Bondo heats up as it cures. Relatively short working time; according to the Bondo website, it can be sanded within 30 minutes of application (which means it starts curing almost as soon as it's out of the tube). Also, it's really too thin to properly sculpt, though you can somewhate shape it and sculpt recessed detail into it.

For larger seams and gaps and/or adding detail, I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt.

Pros: No shrinkage, easy to use once you get used to it, can be smoothed with regular tap water.

Cons: Can be difficult to obtain (I've only found it online), it's a two-part epoxy that must be mixed thoroughly in reasonably equal quantities for it to cure properly, it takes several hours to cure fully, and, as PHArchivist stated, it's harder than most styrenes and resins once it's fully cured, which can make sanding/blending difficult.

Another problem with Aves Apoxie Sculpt is that it can be somewhat tacky, which means it will stick to fingers and sculpting tools. To alleviate this, let it sit for 10-20 minutes after you've thoroughly mixed the two parts and before working with it. This decreases the working time a bit, but you'll be able to work quicker without it sticking to your tools.

 

[cosmic_x]

using Aves Sculpt, very nice to fill all kind of gaps, and if you go with a wet finger/brush over, when you done, you saved yourself a lot of sanding work.

Its sticky after you knead it, so better leave it "rest" 15-20 minutes before starting to apply.

 

[tk1608]

Hi, I've used superglue successfully for thinner seams, it ends up setting harder than some plastics so can be awkward to sand, but if you're careful to keep it close to the seam it's ok. It has the advantage of being a quick way to fill stuff. Also milliput two part filler is good, and I've not noticed any shrinkage with it. Long setting time, usually over night.. but sands easy, and you can smooth it out with a wet finger to make the sanding easier after it's set.

Cheers

Phil

 

[Gigatron]

I make liquid styrene. Cut up some styrene sprue and put it in a small glass jar (old paint jars work well). Add some styrene thin cement (or MeK if you can get it) and let sit for an hour or two. The styrene will liquify which can then be applied to the seems. And because it's styrene, it bonds permanently and has the same sanding/rescribing characteristics as the plastic around it. Plus, it's essentially free and you never really run out.

-Fred

 

[Coffee Addict]

I make liquid styrene. Cut up some styrene sprue and put it in a small glass jar (old paint jars work well). Add some styrene thin cement (or MeK if you can get it) and let sit for an hour or two. The styrene will liquify which can then be applied to the seems. And because it's styrene, it bonds permanently and has the same sanding/rescribing characteristics as the plastic around it. Plus, it's essentially free and you never really run out.

-Fred

Awesome idea! How long to dry? It won't soften the plastic around it?

 

[Gigatron]

Awesome idea! How long to dry? It won't soften the plastic around it?

Only takes a few minutes to dry and it doesn't soften the plastic any more than straight solvent does. The only time I noticed any warping was when I used a big glob of it to mount a huge fuel cell to the interior of a fuselage half (I was out of 5-minute epoxy).


The rear most fuel cell - no mounting tabs so it had to be attached to the wall

Absolutely minor warping near the yellow band (hard to even see from this angle)

-Fred

 

[Too Much Garlic]

That's some serious modeling right there.

I wanted something to repair tiny cracks in sculpey and still be able to sculpt more on the piece afterwards and was recommended apoxie paste, but it really isn't any good for what I need. Way too thick, sticky and annoying to mix.