snakeeyes316
New Member
Do you think it is possible to take the upper neck armor from a jango/boba fett set and use it to make the upper neck armor for a magneto costume?
Armor Modification question
- Thread starter snakeeyes316
- Start date
foxbatkllr
Sr Member
My question would be, why? Why would you do that? Why not just buy some plastic and form it yourself?
The answer according to the set you are showing, is no. The Boba and Jango collar armor is smaller than that picture of Magneto you are showing.
The answer according to the set you are showing, is no. The Boba and Jango collar armor is smaller than that picture of Magneto you are showing.
snakeeyes316
New Member
Cause honestly I wouldnt know where to begin. Im still new to a lot of the materials and what i could use or what might be best to use.
Darth Lars
Master Member
First, I think that you should do one or more prototype/template out of paper or card to fit your shoulders. Without the domes.
One option would be to build the real armor out of papiér maché -- or in English: paper and glue. That technique is often used to make the first prototype of a costume armor piece or helmet that is later cast, and in some circles very common for building the finished piece.
I suggest that you search this forum (and the web) for "pepakura", "Halo helmet" and "papier mache" and you will find a lot. The only materials you need are card, masking tape (because it is made of paper), paper, wallpaper adhesive, Bondo (or other Putty) and sandpaper.
If you do choose HiPS (high-impact polystyrene) plastic, then there is a "ghetto" technique that I practice in the kitchen, that I can share with you:
First, cut your armor roughly to your template: Leave the fine trimming for when after it is shaped.
The trick is to heat the plastic just a bit and then hold it bent in a specific shape as it cools. The plastic will snap back a bit when you release your grip, but if it was hot enough to begin with then it will not snap back to its original shape. You need to bend it more than the angle that you wish to get.
I most often use an oven, set at the plastic's melting point. This is often just above 100 degrees C (melting point of water). Place a piece of wood inside the oven -- the plastic will melt if it touches the metal inside the oven. (The piece of wood can also act as a tray)
I put the piece inside the oven for 20 seconds, take it out, bend it and hold it until it is cooled. Then I do the same thing over and over again until I get the shape I want. If it did not bend at all, then I let the piece sit inside the oven for five seconds longer the next time.
Don't worry about burning yourself. You are not supposed to get the plastic that hot, just almost that hot.
It is imperative that you not leave it in the oven for too long. You do not want the plastic to reach its melting point because then it will become soft as butter, deform under its own weight and your piece is ruined.
Other people use heat guns, but this is how I do it. I find this method better for larger pieces.
There are those who warn about styrene fumes but I don't find them very irritating.
Either method you choose: Good luck, and remember to post your results in the forum!
One option would be to build the real armor out of papiér maché -- or in English: paper and glue. That technique is often used to make the first prototype of a costume armor piece or helmet that is later cast, and in some circles very common for building the finished piece.
I suggest that you search this forum (and the web) for "pepakura", "Halo helmet" and "papier mache" and you will find a lot. The only materials you need are card, masking tape (because it is made of paper), paper, wallpaper adhesive, Bondo (or other Putty) and sandpaper.
If you do choose HiPS (high-impact polystyrene) plastic, then there is a "ghetto" technique that I practice in the kitchen, that I can share with you:
First, cut your armor roughly to your template: Leave the fine trimming for when after it is shaped.
The trick is to heat the plastic just a bit and then hold it bent in a specific shape as it cools. The plastic will snap back a bit when you release your grip, but if it was hot enough to begin with then it will not snap back to its original shape. You need to bend it more than the angle that you wish to get.
I most often use an oven, set at the plastic's melting point. This is often just above 100 degrees C (melting point of water). Place a piece of wood inside the oven -- the plastic will melt if it touches the metal inside the oven. (The piece of wood can also act as a tray)
I put the piece inside the oven for 20 seconds, take it out, bend it and hold it until it is cooled. Then I do the same thing over and over again until I get the shape I want. If it did not bend at all, then I let the piece sit inside the oven for five seconds longer the next time.
Don't worry about burning yourself. You are not supposed to get the plastic that hot, just almost that hot.
It is imperative that you not leave it in the oven for too long. You do not want the plastic to reach its melting point because then it will become soft as butter, deform under its own weight and your piece is ruined.
Other people use heat guns, but this is how I do it. I find this method better for larger pieces.
There are those who warn about styrene fumes but I don't find them very irritating.
Either method you choose: Good luck, and remember to post your results in the forum!
i think that trying to mod a boba neck plate would be more work than scratch building it. they aren't much alike really. the front of magneto is round and comes down lower. the edge facing your neck is also rounder on magneto.
plus, the boba one stops right at the top of your shoulder, so you'd want to extend it back a bit if it was to be worn on its own, vs. connected to a back plate.
plus, the boba one stops right at the top of your shoulder, so you'd want to extend it back a bit if it was to be worn on its own, vs. connected to a back plate.
ItsThatGuy
Sr Member
That armor is just cheap plastic cut and then hand formed with (more than likely) a hair dryer.
