Are you using fiberglass resin for pepakura props?

Discussion in 'Replica Costumes' started by DonaldDarth, Dec 6, 2011.

  1. DonaldDarth

    DonaldDarth New Member

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    Hi everyone,I'm the new joiner from Hong Kong.I would like to make my props.I just read "The PEPAKURA question thread"
    However I haven't too much knowledge and some links isn't work in "The PEPAKURA question thread"
    Would you mind help me?
    What is the difference between fiberglass and fiberglass resin?
    Are you using fiberglass resin for pepakura props? or other material?
    or Should I use Bondo?
    and one more question,how can I fix some pit on the finish pepakura item?

    from Surreal Studios pics,you can see his helmet very smooth
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Broadway204

    Broadway204 New Member

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    I use smoothcast and fiberglass mat.
     
  3. MattMunson

    MattMunson Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I think it's a terminology issue at stake here. When I say the word "fiberglass", what I'm referring to is a layup that uses both resin and fiber (either the woven matt or the straw like fibers). Some people say "fiberglass resin" when referring to JUST the resin, the liquid part. Some people say "fiberglass matting" when referring to the stuff that is NOT the liquid.

    I guess it's just what you're used to.

    But, to simplify things, think of it this way: the liquid is "resin", the fabric stuff is "matting".

    In general, the common practice for pepakura models is to brush on a layer of resin (ie, fiberglass resin) and once it cures, you go into the INSIDE of the shape and lay in some resin and matting.

    I guess the confusion comes in because "resin" is a term that is also applied to other products that have nothing to do with a fiberglass process. Smoothcast is actually not designed to be used with a fiber matting. it CAN be, but it's not designed to be. It's resin, but not resin that is intended for fiberglassing ,if that makes any sense.


    SOOO, the punchline is that the resin you want to use when fiberglassing is called "Fiberglassing resin".

    oy.

    I hope I didn't just make things worse ;)
     
  4. DonaldDarth

    DonaldDarth New Member

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    Thank you MattMunson and Broadway204
    I found a video for the step and marking of.However I still misunderstand some material.I have a presumptuous request.Would you mind show me some pics for those?


    How to build Halo armor Part 3: Resin - YouTube
     
  5. Armageddon

    Armageddon Guest

    There I have a question: I read in the FAQ that you MUST NOT put the fiberglass on the outside of Peparuka...why?....and if you put it in the inside, how do you achieve that smooth-looking curves?...because the Peparuka model is made of joined flat and angled surfaces, so how can you smooth it if you don't put a lot of fiberglass and sand it to a round curve???
     
  6. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    I quit using fiberglass resin months ago, now all I use is urathane resin. I brush a coat outside, and slush a coat or two inside. Does'nt smell as bad as fiberglass resin does and it's just as strong.
     
  7. EyeofSauron

    EyeofSauron Master Member

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    simple: fibreglass has a texture. and you want a smooth surface

    fibreglass is put inside, to strengthen the paper.
    on the outside, you usually put a layer of resin, and then use some kind of body filler, and then it needs to be sanded, then filled again, sanding and filling, allways just filling the spots where the surface is not flat and so on
    its important not to use too much bondo, as it gets heavier and loses detail. and with fibreglass on the outside, you would have to get the texture of it out, and therefor use more bondo, sanding, and also lose detail

    i hope you understood what im saying
     
  8. Armageddon

    Armageddon Guest

    Sure, got it!....but doesn't all the layers of stuff you put outside add too much volume to the original thing....and mess up with the shape?
     
  9. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    The heat caused from the fiberglass resin can sometimes warp the piece. Also fiberglass resin does'nt work very well in cold tempatures.
     
  10. EyeofSauron

    EyeofSauron Master Member

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    its not like you put layer upon layer of filler on it

    you put one layer of filler on it, and sand it.
    then you see, where you have holes and stuff, and put filler on there :) until you have a perfect surface
     
  11. StickyFingers

    StickyFingers New Member

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    What brand are you using and where are you getting it? Home improvement, auto, or boat store?
     
  12. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    Model-Pro Resin from SpecialityResins on eBay, $60 for a 1 Gallon Kit, or $100 for a 2 Gallon Kit is what I pay I think.
     
  13. simul8r

    simul8r Member

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    Thought I’d add my 2 cents in order to help DonaldDarth. I had experience building a plywood boat and laminated it in fiberglass.
    Resin is a two part chemical mix: 1 part is called resin (for some odd reason) and the 2nd part is the catalyst or hardener. Note polyester resin is the most popular used worldwide due to its simplicity and performance. Go to this link to see the different types of resin that are out there.
    Fibermax Composites - Types of resin systems
    Fiberglass is usually a short term used to call the type of fabric that are manufactured. The material is of fiberglass stands, how they are weaved have different names to them and are unique in strength from each other. For example fiberglass cloth is weaved finely compared to fiberglass woven rolling but in fiberglass boat building - woven rolling is used primarily for strength building while cloth is used for smoothening out the bumps. Fiberglass mat is used to lay-up or thicken the fiberglass process by sandwiching mat and woven rolling over and over. But combining all three just adds tremendous amount of strength overall. In our application, however, for hardening pepakura models – fiberglass cloth is all that is needed to strengthen with the inclusion of resin of course. See link below.
    Fiberglass Cloth Fiberglass Mat Fiberglass Roving Fiberglass Tap - Clark Craft
    Using resin without fiberglass fabric becomes brittle under pressure once it cures. The addition of the fiberglass fabric provides the tinsel strength neccessary for us to man-handle the pepakura model while adding bondo (body filler) and sanding.
    By the way, bondo is hard once cured but lacks the tinsel strength. Apply to much pressure to bondo and it will eventually crack much like resin without fiberglass. Bondo is applied over fiberglass/resin because it’s easier to fill in pits and dents and is quite easier to sand in comparison.
    Hope this helped.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2011
  14. Cal

    Cal Well-Known Member

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    Or to Hot. This summer when it was 100 degrees outside I used the exact mixture of hardener to resin that set up perfectly, only this time it never set up and was permanently sticky.

    I mixed a new batch from the same supplies a few days later when it was 70 and it dried perfectly again.
     
  15. DonaldDarth

    DonaldDarth New Member

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    Thank you simul8r,thanks everyone.
    I'm making Dc-17 hand blaster(Rex's gun) now,I've one question.
    If fiberglass is basic level inside the paper,but how can I do that for this little gun
    Everyone give me more information,but I don't know how to implement now.Thanks.
     
  16. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    For a pepakura gun that can become intresting, I've done one of three things usually for it. Pour a lot of fiberglass resin into the gun if it has a open end let it get a good coat inside and any leftover resin that's inside I move into the grip area and let it cure. 2. I've used expanding foam, but that can be tricky you don't want to blow up the prop. and 3 the other thing I've done is cut a prop in half, add fiberglass cloth and resin , then close it up.
     
  17. DonaldDarth

    DonaldDarth New Member

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    Thanks PepMaster
    but i still misunderstand how can I do that .maybe i'm misunderstand your text,would you send me some pics or video?
     
  18. DonaldDarth

    DonaldDarth New Member

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    push to top
     
  19. EyeofSauron

    EyeofSauron Master Member

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    Not too hard. If your gun has an open end, like the part where the bullet is supposed to come out, just mix a batch of resin, and pour it in. Then turn it around a while, until you think the entire inside is covered. You can then either pour the excess resin out, or let it go into the handle, so that the handle is solid.
     
  20. aron42486

    aron42486 Well-Known Member

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    Like PepMaster said for option #3: Do a coat of resin on the outside of the pep. Once cured cut the gun down the middle into 2 mirrored halves. Do your 2-3 layers of fiberglass on the inside. Cure and trim the excess glass off at the edges and put your 2 halves back together. Smooth and seal the seam with a filler
     
  21. glarks

    glarks New Member

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  22. DonaldDarth

    DonaldDarth New Member

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    thank you thank you
    thanks everyone
    I'll try my best
     
  23. wickedoffroad

    wickedoffroad Active Member

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    Welcome to the group. One solution for the gun would to use a resin or similar product on the outside to make a solid shell. Then get a minimal expanding foam, put two small openings, on either end and spray some foam in. Use the minimal expanding so you dont blow apart the gun. will harden rock solid. Work well for holding wires and such in place as well.
     
  24. Contec

    Contec Master Member

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    This is something i have been doing for a couple props and it works great.

    However I do it a little differently. I build the pep with the tabs on the outside but i don't use resin on the outside. Then when the pep is finished i cut a little hole at one side and pour resin inside and slush it around until it cured, then i put the whole thing in a bucket of water so that the paper will start to dissolve, then i can sand it so all the paper is gone.
     
  25. Ghost Host

    Ghost Host Sr Member

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    I did one pep helmet recently, and needed it to be the finished helmet... no molding and casting... so it needed to still be relatively lightweight for the wearer, and I used (what I had on hand already) polyester laminating resin and fiberglass. I resin-ed the paper (card stock) first so it was stiffer, and then glassed the inside with one overlapping layer of once-and-a-half fiberglass mat. Then sanded and filled the outside (sparingly) as needed. It worked great! :)
     
  26. Djymm

    Djymm Member

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    Any tips for protection against warping from the heat of fibreglass?
     
  27. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    There really is'nt much you can do, it's just trial and error.
     
  28. pandamajik

    pandamajik Member

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    I've seen a lot of people build in supports with popsicle sticks or something else stiff. You run these across areas that could potentially warp and it should help to keep some of the structure.
     
  29. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

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  30. Forge

    Forge Member

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    hello, hopefully I am not hijacking this thread but I have a similar question,
    I am not hoping to wear the helmet but use it for display. Is there an alternate
    way of making the helmet solid. I saw somewhere that a helmet was filled with some material and when hardened the helmet was dropped in warm water to remove the outer pep cardboard, then the helmet was sanded smooth. Can anyone help with describing this process better, thanks
     
  31. 92bagder

    92bagder New Member

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    quick question, Im attempting my first halo armor build for Halloween, but I also want to use it as a prop for films. so my question: is the fiberglass build sturdy enough to do light stunts in?
     
  32. 666

    666 Member

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    Question:
    when you brush the resin to the paper model, you don't bend, destroy the shape?
    How do you prevent this to happen?
    thx
     
  33. Crank729

    Crank729 Sr Member

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    If you are using card stock instead of regular paper, it should absorb the resin fine, but it also depends on the temperature. It is really something that comes from using the material.
     
  34. 666

    666 Member

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    thanks. I read about using card stock, but was curious, thank you
     
  35. Lord Magneto

    Lord Magneto Well-Known Member

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    I've been using 110lb card stock and it seems to hold up fine when I use resin.
     
  36. EamonClark

    EamonClark New Member

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    Thank you for clearing up that the fiberglassing resin is used on both the inside and outside. I wasn't sure if there was a difference between them.
     
  37. crabra comander

    crabra comander Sr Member

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    Hey guys, so I just covered my card stock pep in mod podge! Is it ruined?
    I need to use aqua resin since I want to work on this with the kids and need something non-toxic.
     
  38. Grave

    Grave Well-Known Member

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    most of us have moved on from using fiberglass. its too messy and expensive.
    most people now are using EVA foam sheets. they are a lot cheaper, more of it and easier to build at any time of the year. oh, and no fumes that are toxic and explosive.
    look into it. all you need is hot glue and good paint. takes a lot less time to get something built.
    Stealth has a good thread and tutorial on it.
     
  39. crabra comander

    crabra comander Sr Member

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    :thumbsup OK so I can print the peps then outline them on the foam, cut and heat to fold right? I taking baby steps with all this...:)
     
  40. Dancin_Fool

    Dancin_Fool Well-Known Member

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    That totally depends, as long as it hasn't warped you should be fine with the mod podge coat. If nothing else that will water proof it and add a very tiny bit of strength.

    If you're trying to keep things non toxic you can coat the inside of the piece with cheese cloth and pva glue. As an alternative to body filler on the outside to smooth the piece you could have a look at paper-mache clay. It's a non toxic easy to form material that dries with a little bit of strength. Paper Mache Clay

    Keep in mind with the non-toxic alternatives you won't get the same kind of strength as fiberglass and resin but as long as you don't go out of your way to damage it, it will be fine.
     
  41. crabra comander

    crabra comander Sr Member

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    :thumbsupThanks, budget is always an issue with the finance dept. AKA the other half
     
  42. Weapioneer

    Weapioneer Active Member

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    I need to find a substitute for resin, maybe Polyurethane resin or water based resin, because i have trouble using fiberglassing kind, and not a great deal of personal protection equipment. How effective are PU resin and water based resin? are they on par with fiberglassing resin? can layers of cotton fabric be used instead of fiberglass cloth for reinforcement?
     

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