Alclad questions for the pros

[prototype7]

Looking for some info on alclad paints. I have checked out the Alclad II website and it looks like some amazing stuff! Looks like something I must get my hands on. I've been having some trouble locating it though.
I was wondering if some of you guys could help point the way for me as I've already seen some AMAZING uses of it on this site. Maybe give me some tips on where I can buy it and maybe some helpful hints on using the stuff.

Let me say that my experience with higher end paints is fairly small... I've been mostly a rattlecan guy as far as props go, and was never that into models when I was younger.
I know these are designed to be sprayed so I'll have to invest in an airbrush... any tips for me there? Would something like those 60 dollar models at Walmart be an okay place to start or am I wasting my time?

I have a few projects in mind and would really appreciate any help you guys are willing to give out.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Gigatron]

I get my alclad fix from www.megahobby.com . Since they're relatively close to me, I get everything I order in about a day, 2 tops.

As far as airbrushes. go to www.dixieart.com and get an Iwata Revolution (about $65). If you're going to be spraying fairly small areas, get a gravity feed. For larger areas, a siphon feed. Iwatas are the caddys of airbrushes. I have a Revolution BR for small work and an Eclipse BC-S for larger stuff.

As for using Alclad, chrome and polished aluminium require a gloss black basecoat. All the rest can be sprayed over regular primer. It doesn't need to be thinned to be used, but it must be shaken/stirred thouroughly in order to get the metal flakes in suspension. Make sure you get some of the solvent as well to clean your airbrush when you're done. IIRC, Alclad gets sprayed at between 12 and 15 psi (normal acrylics and enamels can be as low as 5 psi). You can mask over it in an hour and it won't peel up. But make sure that if what you're painting is supposd to be a smooth surface, that you sand the daylights out of it, as high-shine finishes magnify every flaw ten-fold.

Make sure you have plenty of ventilation. And when you think you have enough, have more. Work outside with a spraybooth and a ventilator mask. Alclad can be some nasty stuff if not ventilated.

That's all I can think for now, but it should be enough to get you on your way.

-Fred

 

[prototype7]

Thanks gigatron... that does help!
I didn't expect this stuff to be so cheap! Granted, they only come in 1 oz bottles... unless someone can tell me where I can get my hands on a larger bottle???
Can it really be this easy? Some of the pics of Alclad covered peices I've seen here on the rpf are amazing... I'm so excited right now... a good metallic finish has been one of the things that has illuded me.

A few more questions for everyone... are there any other suppliers you guys would mention... I just like having options.
Will ANY gloss black base coat do or should I buy the one that alclad makes?
I was under the impression that I somewhere saw that it is reccomended to cover your materials in a good automotive primer. Am I wrong or is that the way to go? Primer, gloss black, then alclad?

Also, can anyone give me an idea of how far a 1oz bottle will get me? For instance... not that I'm planning to do this but just as a refference size... how many mark x tricorders could I coat with a 1oz bottle of this jazz?

Thanks again all... this truly seems like it will be some awesome stuff!

 

[Hirohawa]

How do you guys seal Alclad? What clear sealer will not dull the finish?

 

[Clerval]

I've never sealed alclad, I simply recommend not handling it much, though the finishes are tough. A lot of ventilation is a must and be sure to follow their advice for base and primer coats. Only diverge from their instructions in this way: you'll need to lay down more thin coats than they recommend. Have never got the results of the pure variety samples you see online or in shopps by spraying amounts they recommend, I usually have to go a bit deeper (not heavier coats, but more light ones)

 

[painter x]

Alclad is great stuff ,There black base is great but if you want a much better brighter and shiny finish. After you apply your black coat. Shoot some future floor wax over it then use your metal color. This really worked for me when I did the Terminator bust thats on my page. Hope this is useful.

 

[Gigatron]

Just for ease of compatibility, use the alclad gloss black. Though, in a pinch, you can use krylon gloss black. Prime the piece with regual auto primer, then the black, then the alclad.

Don't seal the alclad, it only kills the finish. Wait a week after painting to allow the paint to fully cure. Then you can buff it with a cotton cloth. After the first week, I've never had an issue with it coming off on my hands.

Trust me, a 1oz jar goes a loooong way.

-Fred

 

[prototype7]

Thanks for all the help guys! I can't wait to get me hands on some of this stuff! Color me metallicly excited! :cool

Maybe you guys could take a look at the items I am considering ordering and let me know if I'm on the right track???

http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Revolution_Airbrushes.html
BCR double action siphon - 94 R2001 Revolution BCRw/bottle assembly & hose
94 R2001 Iwata Revolution BCR with hose: $74.97

And for the compressor -
http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Silver_Jet_Air_Compressor.html

I'm just beginning and don't want to get in too deep on my first run... this might or might not be something I stick with ya know...

New Pistol Grip Filter
Attaching directly onto the Iwata airbrush, the Pistol Grip Filter is the final defense to deliver clean, dry air to your airbrush.
Click here to order: 94 FA450: Pistol Grip Filter: $20.95

Of course I'll need some bottles and I'm assuming I should buy the solvent proof ones??? I guess I'll need some basic cleaning supplies as well... any reccomendations there?

NOW - - - for the noob airbrush blunder hour - - somebody please talk me out of buying one of these at Walmart...

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/688805.asp

or at least explain to me why I shouldn't. Keeping in mind that I have never airbrushed a thing in my life and it may or may not become an obession for me. I found another site that says these little Mighty Mini's are rated around 15-18 psi which I think falls within the Alclad reccomendations.
Now I can already see for myself one difference that the cheapy is an external mix - which I have deduced refferes to when the air and paint get mixed together?? And the nice Iwata is in internal mix. There of course are obvious quality issues between the two and I'm not even beginning to say that one is not OBVIOUSLY better than the other. BUT - why would this be inappropriate for my first try? I guess that's a good way to put it.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help! This is truly a great community here!