Airsoft DL-44 WIP

Fettbat

Active Member
Hey all,

my most recent project has been trying to make an ANH DL-44 on the cheap out of an Airsoft Mauser, the rupies DL-44 toy, a purchased 3D printed scope mount, and a whole lot of bondo, dremeling, sanding, kit bashing, and time. Here is the progress thus far.

Sorry for the picture orientation (I'm not sure how to fix that) and the sequence of the build is a little off but it's mostly as follows.

Started with ordering an Airsoft Mauser off ebay for around 18$ (I forget the company but I had to order two because the first one was far too small).

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Next step was the flash hider. While the metal ones are beautiful they are way out of my price range and the 3D printed ones are up there for me as well, so I decided to remove the flash hider from the Rupies DL-44 that came out a little while ago and try to clean that up.

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Once removed, I used bondo to flesh out where the divets are and to cover the hole left after removing it from the toy.

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The divets were then added to the base using a dremel.

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The whole thing was then painted with a base of flat black, then a coat of chrome, then rubbed a copper sharpie on a paper towel and "brushed" the flash hider.

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Next was to work on making the body of the Mauser more accurate, first was to cut down the barrel and remove the massive selector switch on the left side.

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Then glued a bit of styrene underneath to support the bondo that would fill the hole.

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The safety was also added at this point using more plastic and a hardware knob.

After that was done I "milled" out the spot and glued a rectangular bit of styrene into the space (I don't have a progress picture of that part apparently).

Next was cutting out the ejection port

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I used a tic tac box wrapped in Aluminum tape to make the new bolt(?)

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The Bull Barrel was made out a bit of PVC piping, with the bevels added via dremel and the bottom flattened out by sanding and then using a hobby knife to shape and level.

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Then a first put together to see proportions.

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Now the scope, first was getting a piece of metal piping (PVC was too large for the mount I had purchased)

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I wound up not using the PVC bit on the back end and using the back of a scope cut off from a plastic toy gun scope.
Then added the detailing to the front of the scope using a funnel (That was originally to be used for the back end).

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The last thing done was adding wood grain to the grips, done using sandpaper for the grain, spray painting brown, sanding again, "brushing" with black paint on a paper towel, then doing the same with a red expo marker (It's what was red and near me at the time).

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Lastly we have where the blaster is now with everything painted and attached.

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It's still a work in progress but I have a couple question on proceeding, the first being what is the best method for a more accurate metal look, I tried a variety of different methods and am still not totally satisfied with the finish. Also, what is a good material for the grill on the front of the blaster?
 
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Fantastic! I love what you did making the grips look more wood. I like your idea with using the Rubies flash hider.
 
t's still a work in progress but I have a couple question on proceeding, the first being what is the best method for a more accurate metal look, I tried a variety of different methods and am still not totally satisfied with the finish. Also, what is a good material for the grill on the front of the blaster?

Over on another thread, I asked a similar question about making a good metal gun look and got this answer about grafite vs a 3 coat paint method....

http://www.therpf.com/showpost.php?p=3983606
 
Great idea on the toy flash hider, having never seen one of those in the flesh it's been too much of a risk to lay down the funds and buy something that's going to turn out too small. Looks fine from here, is it about full-size?
I'd rather have plastic than resin, and much like yourself, a metal one's just not going to happen anytime soon.
 
Hey Wayne,
Thanks, and yea those metal ones can be tough to rationalize, plus I find there is a lot of fun in scrounging and building up a prop (It makes it feel like it's mine even if it does mean a loss of accuracy).
At one point in this build I did have a whole bunch of notes on the dimensions of the Rupies but I can't seem to find them anywhere. I do remember the difference in sizes between the actual and the toy being fairly close at least in length. It's somewhere between like .3 and .4 inches. I could be under or over shooting, but it wasn't that much of a difference.
I'm not around to measure mine either, but I will be able to later in the week and I can shoot you a message with some better pictures and dimensions if you'd like?
- AR
 
I'd be very grateful if you could. Over two militaria fairs during 2015 I picked up a Denix Mauser and some real wood grips (my friend collects bayonets etc). And they're just sitting around, gathering dust because of not knowing what to do with them.
A Doopydoos resin blaster might be good to harvest parts from, but the toy's way cheaper and should be less delicate. Watching this thread is very useful as it'll quite likely form a template for my attempt.
 
I can help with a size comparison between the doopys at the top

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and the modified rubies at the bottom.

The flash hider on the doopys is 32mm on the round with 36mm on the rubies :)
 
I'd love to see what you come up with Wayne! I'll definitely keep updating this thread with progress as things continue. Also thanks Spacebob for two things, 1. for the images and measurements, and 2. for reminding me it's rubies not rupies.
- AR
 
Small Update!
Things have been moving pretty slow on this recently but here is some recent work.

Scope and Scope dial:
As of right now it's pretty off, but the general shape is there I'm still trying to figure out a way to get the right dimensions and knurling. The original piping was removed for the scope and replaced with a the end of a plastic toy scope, then I used bondo to fill the seams.

The dial was done by using a bit of plastic lit heated with a cigarette lighter and formed into the right shape attached to a base sculpted from epoxy puddy. The dial itself is a dial from some airsoft M16 but it's horribly inaccurate so it will be changed eventually. After the base was made I milled out the area where the hex screw fits it (only because that's what size the hole that was already in the pipe was) and attached it.

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Then after that was done it was repainting the blaster mount and scope (Again: still not satisfied with these paint jobs!) and adding the disk.

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- AR
 
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