I agree - the button appears to be one of those from the 80s — I have at least a dozen Ant pins, along with Frankie Goes to Hollywood, Thompson Twins, FYC, The Clash, Duran Duran, Swatch, etc. Those pins were an easy way to wave the colors back in the day!
I printed the clan badge on transparency on 15 to 20 levels of shading at 1 3/4 inch wide from the image of the online sale item (originally silver). I then chose a level that I thought looked correct on the metal backing I used (biscuit tin end cap from a dough roll). I am loading the printable image here but cannot promote a specific shade level because it depends on how dark your laser printer makes transparencies. I printed at 100, 50 and 25 percent giving 24 full shades with 2 per. Make sure to print in reverse so the plastic is on the outside to protect the print. I then super glued this to the tin using a flood coat on the tin and then placing the image on it. I held it down with another smaller flat circle and a handful of kitchen bag clamps. This allowed me to use a completely transparent glue layer. When dry, I cut out the image using tin snips and a dremel.


and Adam's for comp:

Screenshot_20231029-235538_Samsung Internet.jpg
Apologies, forgot to mention my sizing research. The Ace of spades is 2.5x3.5 inch (standard card size for that brand). Using my screen measuring app, I came up with the clan badge circle diameter at 1.75 inch. I found an online, similar badge, showing the same.....

I have spent months looking for the russian flintlock (in Adam's right hand, no ram rod) but all of the listed ones on auction are sold and no company I have found makes this kit, currently. Making this gun one of the hardest to find of the movie used flintlocks. My uncle found the gun he had in storage. As usual, my luck is ridiculous and it is the same model. However, the people who first put the kit together, attempted to modify it for a ramrod holder. I will build the end barrel brass ring cover and also a ram rod faux kit so the gun can be used as his right hand gun in one pose and his left hand gun in another.


So, cheers again to being blessed beyond excuse.
I had to make the brass plate on the opposite side, as well. The paint on the parts is curing and I will spend some time buffing and cleaning and will add the parts tomorrow. I plan to make the ram rod from a sink stopper pull arm.
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With this post, I am officially seperating my flintlock research for historical weaponry from my attempts at cosplaying this album cover.

The guns built in the long distant past (the ones that might be pictured if originals) and the replicas of same (may also be what is pictured) both fall victim to one major flaw in cosplay and replica making: standardization vs custom hand crafted original works.

Replicas available during the photo shoot could have been from a replica manufacturer or could have been from a kit. Both sources fall on the sword at consistency, craftsmanship, available parts and personal choice. Anyone can choose half of one kit and half of another. Some kits even require the user to carve the stock which would mean no two would be the same.

But the ultimate downfall of flintlock replicas comes in at historical source images and physically available examples. The reason? Originals had the EXACT same problems in consistency. Variations run amok like children at a carnival.

Original source material (model, type, brand, maker, year, etc.) is based on:

1) The opinion of the historian
2) The guessing of a sales person
3) The absolute guessing of an auctioneer
4) The assumed year make
5) The assumed model
6) The skill of the original craftsmen
7) The availability of parts
8) Requested changes due to intended use
9) Requested model options
10) Military input for the new model
11) Military requests for the current model's modification
12) The use of nonconforming parts or substandard materials during creation of extraordinarily large fulfillment orders.
13) Multiple manufacturers building from general sketches for the same model.
14) The use of one model from one branch in a different military branch due to personal taste
15) Rem stock -The use of an 8.5 inch barrel on a ten inch gun because it is the last finished barrel that was at hand after cutting the previous 10 inch at 10.5, etcetera.

And now, for the mind blowing conclusion to this wonderful rabbit trail, the comparison pictures of the British Sea Service Short Version and the Light Dragoon pattern 1799 (with non standard but not actually rare two part brass ram rod kit).

Notable points:

1) Other versions of the Light Dragoon had a fully 3 dimensional cast flint holder, very curvacious and in no way flat. It did not contain a traced border line. This model has a flat stamped version. It also happens to be the EXACT same flint lock parts as the long running standard parts of the British Sea Service Short version. Especially noted in the two locations that the top connects to the bottom (the little circle section)


2) The butt plate, on a standard Sea Service, is one piece and is a, completely smooth and spherical, ball. The butt plate on a standard light Dragoon (like Adam's gun) is flattened on the bottom and covered by a large ring plate and screw, with the final appearance of an electric doorbell button. Many supposed Sea Service pistols, at auction, have this exact buttplate and are likely not Sea Service but may use non standard parts. Some are claimed to be "Officer's" pistols.

3) The Light Dragoon is historically noted to be a 10 inch barrel while the Sea Service is noted as 9. Keep this in mind when viewing the comparison pictures below as they do not meet those specs. It should have been one of the defining factors but is now unusable as a factor.

4) The British Sea Service Short version always has the two piece brass ramrod holder. The Light Dragoon usually has only one brass tube but has no brass at the point the rod goes into the wood of the stock. Many Light dragoons, when customized (either originally or in replica kits) used this two piece brass similar to the British Sea Service Short. Adam's shows a two piece.

5) The curvature of the grip of the British Sea Service Short is distinct in that it curves near the top but straightens in the hand section. The curve of the Light Dragoon does not flatten or straighten and is continuous throughout the grip. It is one of the true distinctions between these two guns.

6) Due to hand carving of every stock, the variations in shoulders, locations of ram rod parts, shape of wood near barrel end and the amount of barrel beyond the stock are all just variations in production. These variations do not cause the metal parts to misalign or gap so would not cause the unit to be rejected. They are expected in hand made items and cannot be used for gun type or model verification. Some of each type have no narrowing of the barrel end but others of both types show a narrowing shoulder within one inch of barrel end.

The guns below are the British Sea Service Short version (seemingly matching historical descriptions) and followed by the Light Dragoon with non standard two piece ramrod. To differentiate, you must look at grip curvature. You might say "Aha! The buttplates are different!" but many sea service, or claimed to be sea service, use the Light Dragoon butt plate.


The lighting and slight angle variations in the photos make them look to be at different zoom levels but the size of the central flintlock is nearly a match. Variation in girth or position of curves in the wood are not even similar among two guns of the same type, due to hand carving.

Below, I have morphed the two guns to show their similarity.


The only truly defining factor is the curve of the gun grip. Because Adam is holding the gun, this cannot be used to differentiate. This means that Adam could be holding:

1) An original, authentic British Sea Service Short version flintlock with custom Light Dragoon butt plate

2) An original, authentic Light Dragoon pattern 1799 flintlock with custom two piece brass ramrod holder or

3) A replica built with parts from either or both kits.

So, I am no longer vouching for any particular gun match with this pose.
Some work done on the first rendition. Added the side bar and polished the existing brass. I made the ring topper but will need to fill the attempted rod port and disguise it as wood.


I might ugly up the topper ring as well. I believe that it will pass for poses as long as I don't side by side it making the brass trigger guard differences too obvious. Adam's may well be silvered on some parts.
I am borrowing this gun so I cannot permanently change anything. I can only add adornments. I am also making it into two different guns so I need to fill the ramrod hole for one and complete it for the other.

I have completed the temporary fill using oven bake clay. Meaning it won't set during my project and can be removed. I colored it with shoe polish. Here is my current pistol build (main pistol already existed. I made minor adjustments):


as a replacement for this pose:


So, no more excuses. I will start laying out pieces. I have the coat (using only the collar), the cape (might need to add a second button as Adam's looks to have two??), the hat (my precious), and the earring and ribbons.
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The cape, I had in storage, had some button issues so I replaced two gold buttons with matte black. I removed a full set of hood attachment buttons and then removed the modern white manufacturing tags.

I am still needing to remove the arms from my failed online custom vest order (the one that showed up as a jacket) even if I am only using the top portion in the pose.

The mask, shirt, jewelry and the rest looked complete until I noticed the bracelet.


But, this is left hand and I can purposely do the right hand pose:

Great research and, just as details about your gun vs. Adam's go: the Frizzen spring on the right of the gun is longer on Adam's.
As you mentioned above, also; the trigger guard and its attachment to the underside is also very particular on his weapon.
Yes, as you've done your research; you've discovered the many pitfalls of collecting and identifying antique weapons:confused::unsure:
Great research and, just as details about your gun vs. Adam's go: the Frizzen spring on the right of the gun is longer on Adam's.
As you mentioned above, also; the trigger guard and its attachment to the underside is also very particular on his weapon.
Yes, as you've done your research; you've discovered the many pitfalls of collecting and identifying antique weapons:confused::unsure:
I ran across a lot of the spring issues when the real antiques had been repaired/smithed. The trigger guard issue runs afoul of the "available parts/options". Thank you for the close look. Appreciated.
Johnny Depp ripped him of big style...the original Jack Sparrow !
Yep, only Keith Richards could claim to be nearly as much an influence on Sparrow as Adam obviously was.... and is not credited. This is a lot like the level of uncredited influence "Forbidden Planet" had on Star Trek.
Not trying to kick a dead horse but I came across this bit of text when looking for a gun kit today. It clearly sums up most of what I had noticed and even confirmed the supposed 10 inch barrel was usually 9 on the light dragoon.

"This pattern (commonly referred to as the Elliot pattern) of flintlock pistol has a 9-inch 62 calbre barrel made with tempered seamless modern steel (type:BS970 no.080M40) with a tight breech plug. As the pictures attest, this is a beautiful pistol. Note the curve of the pistol grip/butt. This shape became popular in both the French and British armies in the 1760s. If it is not shaped this way it is not a Light Dragoon pistol."

The later 1799 pattern added the option for the double brass section in the ramrod holder.

Because the elliot is available on the market today (link in this post), it and the Sea service short (also, same link) are workable options for the Stand and Deliver videos with the noted options needed to be added (two piece buttplate and/or two piece brass ramrod holder available from same link). Be cautious of stain color if ordering as Sea Service is far too dark in the pictures listed. Ask for the appropriate standard brown stain, not black.

And now the dead horse can rest. Thank you for your patience.
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