erv
Well-Known Member
That one has been on the back burner for a long time. Too long.
Long story short, I didn't have the ressources back then to get vintage parts for that prop.
I got a Deck36 kit from spatcave on ebay. Cheap, like 60-70 USD from what I remember. Sounded like a good idea.
When I got the kit, some of it was nice, but some parts dislocated / changed of shape, like if the PU resin was still floppy for a while. Or just an aged kit, parts pressing on each other in the storage box they were in, even if I'm sure spatcave stored it the proper way.
Some parts I saved with a hot air gun (on low temp) and a lighter, getting the plastic hot and reshaping the parts. Everything was going well. Then the upper body mess. That part I could never paint it. I think the problem is called resin weeping or sweating. Since PU resin is made of a sort of "oil", if you don't mix properly with extra care prior casting, you can have either some oil OR some catalyst not mixed properly and it will go out for ever. I tried hot water, bath of acetone, vinegar, primer, resin, bondo, nothing will stay. Not on all the surface, just on a few spot.
The project waited until chimera bespoke (UK) and I talked about his armor & blaster projects, and since he's a fantastic caster, he re casted the part for me for almost free.
The issue is that the part was damaged a lot during all my attempts of covering it with various products.
Anyhow the cast was NICE. So I started over.
The project won't be very "accurate" due to the kit format & no vintage part. I could still get a vivitar flash and the flash calculator card but I would prefer to save that for a screen accurate project if I ever make one. Still I have big plans for the electronics, to make FAR better than the MR version.
december 2007....
The upper body mentioned above is the top part with the white/clear washer and the black rod inserted in it.
Sanding / bondo time...
[fast forward]
02/10/2010
the new casted part. Needed some filler.
I plan to have working switches here and there, so I placed one in the hama remote
Testing the placement. I knew from here that there will be a naughty seam between the upper and lower body, I used some bondo to minimize this but still... That's due the the part wall which bended inward. I forgot to fix that prior molding / casting. Too late.
ahhhhh... my mobile bench and painting cabinet. Sorry to be pleased with myself. The air exhaust is so nice, no more paint stinking in the basement, vapors are taken out almost instantly. I let the fan on during the oven pre heat then I bake the primed parts at 45-50°C (not really baking and it's not Powder Coating, just a way to get the solvents out quicker and it hardens the paint).
Visible results. I didn't search for brown bess, I don't have an airbrush. But I spotted some spray cans of special automotive plastic paint. Supposed to be "grey" but at the end it's an interesting tint midway between grey and olive dab. Matching very well my M-40 ammo box I got from Tommin/M41-A.com.
Making a battery pack. 2x16340 pre charged to balance the pack.
testing the future screen. That's the touch version for prototyping, the final thing won't have it of course.
Next is to start the electronics. I have many ideas. For now, collecting MT sounds. I'm seeing with XL also for a possible set of Flash videos.
Back in the day, I started a frame by frame work for a smaller screen. Not looking good I know. The new screen is 320x200 65k colors or something. It plays videos too.
Long story short, I didn't have the ressources back then to get vintage parts for that prop.
I got a Deck36 kit from spatcave on ebay. Cheap, like 60-70 USD from what I remember. Sounded like a good idea.
When I got the kit, some of it was nice, but some parts dislocated / changed of shape, like if the PU resin was still floppy for a while. Or just an aged kit, parts pressing on each other in the storage box they were in, even if I'm sure spatcave stored it the proper way.
Some parts I saved with a hot air gun (on low temp) and a lighter, getting the plastic hot and reshaping the parts. Everything was going well. Then the upper body mess. That part I could never paint it. I think the problem is called resin weeping or sweating. Since PU resin is made of a sort of "oil", if you don't mix properly with extra care prior casting, you can have either some oil OR some catalyst not mixed properly and it will go out for ever. I tried hot water, bath of acetone, vinegar, primer, resin, bondo, nothing will stay. Not on all the surface, just on a few spot.
The project waited until chimera bespoke (UK) and I talked about his armor & blaster projects, and since he's a fantastic caster, he re casted the part for me for almost free.
The issue is that the part was damaged a lot during all my attempts of covering it with various products.
Anyhow the cast was NICE. So I started over.
The project won't be very "accurate" due to the kit format & no vintage part. I could still get a vivitar flash and the flash calculator card but I would prefer to save that for a screen accurate project if I ever make one. Still I have big plans for the electronics, to make FAR better than the MR version.
december 2007....
The upper body mentioned above is the top part with the white/clear washer and the black rod inserted in it.
Sanding / bondo time...
[fast forward]
02/10/2010
the new casted part. Needed some filler.
I plan to have working switches here and there, so I placed one in the hama remote
Testing the placement. I knew from here that there will be a naughty seam between the upper and lower body, I used some bondo to minimize this but still... That's due the the part wall which bended inward. I forgot to fix that prior molding / casting. Too late.
ahhhhh... my mobile bench and painting cabinet. Sorry to be pleased with myself. The air exhaust is so nice, no more paint stinking in the basement, vapors are taken out almost instantly. I let the fan on during the oven pre heat then I bake the primed parts at 45-50°C (not really baking and it's not Powder Coating, just a way to get the solvents out quicker and it hardens the paint).
Visible results. I didn't search for brown bess, I don't have an airbrush. But I spotted some spray cans of special automotive plastic paint. Supposed to be "grey" but at the end it's an interesting tint midway between grey and olive dab. Matching very well my M-40 ammo box I got from Tommin/M41-A.com.
Making a battery pack. 2x16340 pre charged to balance the pack.
testing the future screen. That's the touch version for prototyping, the final thing won't have it of course.
Next is to start the electronics. I have many ideas. For now, collecting MT sounds. I'm seeing with XL also for a possible set of Flash videos.
Back in the day, I started a frame by frame work for a smaller screen. Not looking good I know. The new screen is 320x200 65k colors or something. It plays videos too.