3D Resin Printer First (attempt) print

It was difficult to tell what exactly happened. The video was poor as the camera tried to keep refocusing on the rocket.

TazMan2000
 
It was difficult to tell what exactly happened. The video was poor as the camera tried to keep refocusing on the rocket.

TazMan2000
Phrozen Sonic Mini.


My apologies. I was on my way out the door to go to work. :)

When I tried to remove the rocket from the printer, the supports just broke away anyway. That tells me they were really thin.

The FINS of the rocket are not perfectly straight, and jog a bit in the middle. Some other things slightly off of straight.


:love: :love: Love:love::love:_______ the smoothness of the print.
 

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It could be the bed height that is at issue. Perhaps a bit too tight. Use a slightly different thickness of paper when levelling. What was the orientation on the print surface? Fins toward or away from the print surface? Even though resin printers can do detailed parts, thin parts do not always come out well. Curing can cause thin parts to shift.

TazMan2000
 
Thanks for helping advice. Fins toward the print surface. Certainly, flipping it could produce different results. This was my first print ever, and I should have chose something simpler !

This is for a friend and will be painted silver, with a gold nose cone and on a dog tag style chain, as a replica from the movie, Mission to Mars.
 
I have had a lot of problems with printing with FDM and managed to work through them by mostly searching online for solutions. There were a lot.
With resin, the solutions are still online but not as plentiful. I find that I have the best of luck with printing something that has a large flat side against the print surface. You want a large contact area. Sometimes that’s not possible, so you need supports. You want to position supports on the side that will be least noticeable, since sometimes taking off supports leaves chunks or divots behind.
Really thin parts may not print very well. They are partially cured and are constantly going into a liquid and the partially cured layers are being removed from the FEP film. They do stick to the FEP and there is always a push-pull force on the object. Detail is pretty incredible sometimes but flimsy parts need a support structure to ensure they come out well. There is some give/take with that since the support structure may be thicker than the part you wanted in the first place. So cutting the supports off may damage the object.
Always a learning curve on these printers.

TazMan2000
 
I won't have another day for possible printing until Sunday, or Monday. Will try with the TOP of the rocket against the flat part. (flipped end for end from original print)
 
I used a silver leaf pen and gold leaf pen. The nose cone is a bit long, but I'll call it good. I'm going to glue both pieces together, and coat them in satin polyurethane since this would be worn. The coating will clear coat and help protect it when worn. I was originally going to print these in metal from Shapeways, but it would be costly. Since I ended up printing as 2 pieces, but didn't need to, since I used the same material, I could have printed as one piece and leafed top and bottom in 2 different colors.
 

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Yes !

And after looking at them further, I'm going to reprint it as one piece. I don't want it coming apart while my friend is wearing it. Since it was going to be printed in Rhodium, and brass for the top, that's the only reason I chose 2 pieces in the first place.

---------edit-----------

Also after printing, I realized that it is too narrow. The rocket needs to be beefier.
I'll bump up the size for the 3rd print.
I have the dog tag style chain for it already.
 

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