11th Doctor wand company remote strip down / conversion help

Agentsmith350

Active Member
Hi guys

Im in the process of changing my wand company sonic to an extendable version eith CO electronics but have hit a wall , i cant for the life of me work out how to seperate these sections :

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Can anyone help please ?
 
OK so been working on the slider and think I know what I need to do , Still need help getting this bit apart though !

Also have no idea what to do with the claws if anyone can point me in the right direction.
 
will havoffo pry off the copper end cap. Stick a screwdriver between the end cap and the white handle and pry it off. After you get the End cap off the white handle should slide off. They sometimes glue it on so it may take some force to get it loose.
 
will havoffo pry off the copper end cap. Stick a screwdriver between the end cap and the white handle and pry it off. After you get the End cap off the white handle should slide off. They sometimes glue it on so it may take some force to get it loose.

Thank you that makes sense now :) Il give that a go tonight.

For the claws I have seen you used those springs but is there a reason we cant make them similar using the stock mounts rather than chopping away and the silver section and using brackets ?
 
Agentsmith350 If its glued i would suggest to point a hairdryer onto and into the the part for a minute or so before trying to take it apart. company's sometimes use hotglue to glue things together and the heat will make it lose...don't use a Heat gun.
 
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@Agentsmith350 If its glued i would suggest to point a hairdryer onto and into the the part for a minute or so before trying to take it apart. company's sometimes use hotglue to glue things together and the heat will make it lose...don't use a Heat gun.

Thanks , I feel a lot more confident now I have you guys tips

Just got to figure a way of getting these damn claws to be on the spring.

By the way can anyone tell me what Volt white LED i need to buy to replace the green one on the CO electrics ?
 
FYI if you end up needing a new white handle drop me a line. I have a few spares. TWC uses some form of super glue which can be a pain to deal with. Though only 1 in 3 I work with have had glue on the handle. If you need ideas on spring loading the claws, my build thread has pictures of the mechanism I use .
 
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FYI if you end up needing a new white handle drop me a line. I have a few spares. TWC uses some form of super glue which can be a pain to deal with. Though only 1 in 3 I work with have had glue on the handle. If you need ideas on spring loading the claws, my build thread has pictures of the mechanism I use .

Thanks I appreciate the help , yeah it was your thread I found the spring idea im just not sure how to do it using the standard mounting points as id rather not have to do the L bracket stuff.

I noticed you were able to change the emitter heads colour do you know what type of white LED i can use with the CO electronics ?
 
I used the 3mm white LED which are readily available just about anywhere. I get mine from e-bay in packs of 100 as I use those fairly often. I have been using them for most of my conversions and there has been no adverse effects while in use with the CO board.
 
I used the 3mm white LED which are readily available just about anywhere. I get mine from e-bay in packs of 100 as I use those fairly often. I have been using them for most of my conversions and there has been no adverse effects while in use with the CO board.

Do you happen to have a link you could send me in a PM ? Wouldnt like to fry my CO board with the wrong type !

Been trimming the upper section for the claws and just wanted to check I understood it , do you glue the brackets to it then fit the claws ( drilling the holes where needed ) and pop the spring in so it rests against the outside of the body ?
 
Iv ordered a pack of LED's to try , cut the hande off in the end was expecting to reveal a way to remove the insides of the handle but cant see how , do you just hack/drill the insides out ? Need to make some room for the CO bit
 
Ok so I had this thing loosely held together , gave it a test flick and the top silver section keeps popping right off the rails of the copper cage. Not sure whats happening as it was flicking fine before i put the CO innards in there :(

Anyone any info on how they have secured it ? I was thinking of either dropping a bit of epoxy in the holes of the CO tube where I had melted the little holes for the prongs but this prevent me from stripping it if I ever need to get it apart again. Or drilling out a 2/3mm hole and attaching it with screws like the Toy was since the holes are already there in the CO tube.

the other thing I have found is that when making the brackets for the claws I had hoped the CO tube would have stopped them opening to a 90* angle but it hasnt , anyone mind telling me how they get them to only spring out so far ?
 
Ok so I used the screws to attach the silver arms to the shaft and it works a treat , used the CO ring for the claws but some of them arnt catching it so have gone round it with epoxy and will try that next.

Had a bit of a disaster and one of the arms snapped off though when I tried to bend it tighter , Iv epoxy'd , araldited and taped but it keeps splitting. Has anyone got any ideas on how to get it secured back ?? Should be sorted once thats back on..
 
Iv ordered a pack of LED's to try , cut the hande off in the end was expecting to reveal a way to remove the insides of the handle but cant see how , do you just hack/drill the insides out ? Need to make some room for the CO bit

What exactly did you end up using to clear out the inside of the base?
 
Well had a bit of a disaster , tried to use durafix to repair the cracked arm and melted the whole section so now need a new metal cage / sonic :( :( :(
 
When you say cracked arm, are you talking about the aluminum cage or the copper cage?
If it's the copper cage, you might contact Nakedmolerat and see if you could pick up the 1st metal cage that he printed from my shapeways site and then plated. I don't think he's doing anything with it since he ended up ordering a second part that more closely resembled the model I drew.
 
When you say cracked arm, are you talking about the aluminum cage or the copper cage?
If it's the copper cage, you might contact Nakedmolerat and see if you could pick up the 1st metal cage that he printed from my shapeways site and then plated. I don't think he's doing anything with it since he ended up ordering a second part that more closely resembled the model I drew.

Unfortunatly it is one of the arms on the silver top section :/
 
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