Photos to come (eventually), but I’ve been working on fine-tuning various details, and to install the printed nacelle grills and tiny secondary hull docking ports. I also decided to make use of the printed nacelle front-end master I’d previous received by carefully sanding and shaping it to fit the contours of the nacelles. Once that work is done, I can mold and cast the master in clear, tinted resin.
1/1000 PHASE II Enterprise
- Thread starter Gregatron
- Start date
PHArchivist
Master Member
Awesome build... Love seeing the lineage and progression of the three ships...
stevielewis
Sr Member
I hope the new parts get delivered this time. Good luck.
Thanks!
All new engine parts installed (except for the nacelle chinguards, which are still too thick, and need reworking). Nacelles installed and blended onto the pylons. Docking ports blended in.
Now I’m in the cycle of priming, filling/sanding imperfections, and re-priming.
But she’s coming together.
Now I’m in the cycle of priming, filling/sanding imperfections, and re-priming.
But she’s coming together.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Gorgeous...
stevielewis
Sr Member
Looks great just like that. 
Moving right along. Been applying the base gray-green color, then Gundam marker pre-shading, then the base color again in stages to create depth and bring out all of that detail in the engines and whatnot. Once that process is finished, it's on to detail painting, then the saucer grid, then decals.
ForbiddenOnion
Active Member
This is really coming together well. Love Phase II builds, still my favorite version of the Enterprise.
It really is awesome, isn't it? The design never quite clicked in my mind until I saw David Shaw's research and his study model. For years prior to that, people had largely just taken the blueprints and then added in a mix of details from the TOS and TMP designs to fill in the blanks. It sill irks me to see digital and physical models of the PHASE II ship (such as the Eaglemoss miniature) which stick the TOS sensor/deflector dish onto the front end, when that was clearly NOT the design intent.
Shaw's version is the first to give us an accurate approximation of what we would have seen, and to show what was obviously the design intent--the TOS ship, but upgraded. An actual refit, as opposed to the complete rebuild of the TMP version. As noted upthread, Jefferies took the opportunity to tweak and improve the TOS design, and he did a fabulous job. He wasn't beholden to the specific shapes and proportions of the TOS models or blueprints, but the resulting design still clearly said, "This is the TOS ship, but with new engines and a few other tweaks".
The TMP design is still very much an outgrowth of Jefferies' work (further tweaked and reskinned), but I would have loved to have seen the PHASE II version onscreen, at some point. The closest we ever got was the repurposed model used for the destroyed Refit in STAR TREK III, and the repurposed Bridge and B/C deck used on the Soyuz class ships in the TNG era.
Been working on painting. Had a few setbacks. I determined that the structural integrity of the nacelle pylons/secondary hull connections was lacking, because some cracks appeared near the base of each pylon. Determined to resolve this, I Dremeled trenches into the outboard side of each pylon (and into the secondary hull), then JB-Welded small bits of brass rod into the trenches. After that, Apoxie Sculpt was applied to cover the trenches, and then Perfect Plastic Putty over that. Just finished the first recoat of the base hull color over the pylons. Probably gonna need another coat or two, but the assembly is now very solid.
I also did some preshading of the model’s various nooks and crannies with a Gundam marker before painting the model with the basecoat, which brought out all of the detail on the nacelles and joints.
Meanwhile, I installed the upper and lower saucer domes, and drew on the upper saucer grid with a pencil, which is more controllable than the actual scribing I did during my first go-around with this model. Interestingly, Matt Jefferies’ blueprints for both the TOS and PHASE II designs feature 24 radial lines on the saucer, but the TOS filming model (and, from what limited reference there is, apparently the PHASE II) features 28. I went with 28, this time around.
After that, I misted the base color over the saucer to tone down the grid and blend it in, which helps provide a better scale effect.
As before, I’m inclined not to weather the model with pastel chalks (as David Shaw did with his excellent study model), since I would presume that the ship would have been cleaned up during its refit. I have a feeling that the PHASE II studio model would have been sans weathering, but you never know.
Once the nacelle pylons are properly repainted, the rest of the detail painting should be pretty quick and easy, and then I can FINALLY move on to decaling and get this (re)build finished.
Here are some quick and dirty photos:
I also did some preshading of the model’s various nooks and crannies with a Gundam marker before painting the model with the basecoat, which brought out all of the detail on the nacelles and joints.
Meanwhile, I installed the upper and lower saucer domes, and drew on the upper saucer grid with a pencil, which is more controllable than the actual scribing I did during my first go-around with this model. Interestingly, Matt Jefferies’ blueprints for both the TOS and PHASE II designs feature 24 radial lines on the saucer, but the TOS filming model (and, from what limited reference there is, apparently the PHASE II) features 28. I went with 28, this time around.
After that, I misted the base color over the saucer to tone down the grid and blend it in, which helps provide a better scale effect.
As before, I’m inclined not to weather the model with pastel chalks (as David Shaw did with his excellent study model), since I would presume that the ship would have been cleaned up during its refit. I have a feeling that the PHASE II studio model would have been sans weathering, but you never know.
Once the nacelle pylons are properly repainted, the rest of the detail painting should be pretty quick and easy, and then I can FINALLY move on to decaling and get this (re)build finished.
Here are some quick and dirty photos:
Now that is lovely.
There are some interesting refit designs being drawn:
www.tapatalk.com
I really like the Balson hull:
www.tapatalk.com
The eleventh image down shows an interesting Phase II…but I forgot who made it. He widened the 1/1000 saucer.
www.trekbbs.com
There are some interesting refit designs being drawn:
Member General Trek Art
Treknographics101-Please post member art work in this area.
www.tapatalk.com
I really like the Balson hull:
Treknographics101-Line drawing bashes
Here goes: My first attempt was just a refit saucer atop Aridas Sophia's Balson: I saw a wider saucer on the web and thought that balanced things out
www.tapatalk.com
The eleventh image down shows an interesting Phase II…but I forgot who made it. He widened the 1/1000 saucer.
Publiusr's Starship designs - LARGE IMAGES
Here is a little of what I have been working on My first attempt was just a refit saucer atop Aridas Sophia's Balson: [IMG] I saw a wider saucer on...
www.trekbbs.com
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That is coming out spectacular!!!
On that note: I had similar issues with the nacelle pylon connections on my 1/537 Refit build; I solved that by using Devcon Plastic Welder (two part syringe adhesive) and some brass rod. Worked like a charm!
There were two inherent problems, in this case: 1) This is a resin kit, so plastic-welding glues wouldn’t work; 2) During my original construction of the kit, I’d failed to notice that the stock UGH! Models pylons were too long and inaccurate. So, I had to cut and Dremel them out, shorten them, and reinstall them. They came with metal rods already embedded in them, but those were cut during the removal process. They clearly needed additional strength, but I only discovered this the hard way, after I was already into painting.
