Recent content by Sigma-LS

Build an armature of tubes and bits bolted to the shell, then sculpt over it with apoxy sculpt. That stuff is tough as sin. Smooth on also makes a lighter fluffier version with the consistency of biscuit dough.

Take it from someone who was born an asthmatic, has lungs that work at 50%, and is sensitive to the smallest things. Urethane resins are no big deal. Maybe half a step up from epoxies and acrylic paint, which are several steps below the smoke from burning your toast in the morning. Mid range...

Okay, so I know this one is really going to be out of left field but I'm wanting to convert an old Rapier Destroyer conversion to an RC pop ship. The model was originally intended to be electric RC convertible so she is seaworthy in every way she need to be. The top is separable from the hull...

Have you seen the Smoothcast 60D line? Seems pretty much what you are looking for. EDIT: Didn't look at the OP, banned and 2010, what a pointless necro.:behave

The visuals are fantastic. I don't agree with the design direction of the smurfs (mostly because they don't mesh with evolution of the local fauna), but I don't think anybody has ever slammed Avatar for being technically deficient. Honestly what I probably dislike most was all that "Earth...

Been awhile since I updated this but the engines are in and wired and the base is good to go. I just need to wrap up a few things on the bulb before final attachment and light test. Then I get to seal the cargo pod to the hull, finish the gears and get started on masking for the paint.

Not to jack the thread but here you go. http://www.therpf.com/f11/firefly-serenity-resin-kit-shiny-wip-172818/

Sinking $700 into my N-scale Serenity model was my coping mechanism for the movie whiplash. Still working on it slowly but surely. So many projects to fiddle with right now. Definitely worth the watch. Really, I enjoy it for the tech, universe, and banter.

Everybody uses bondo spot putty as the standard go-to for building resin kits. Works great, and way cheaper than tamiya. But that's spots and scratches and stuff. Anything more substantial and you'll want some kind of epoxy putty like milliput to do the job. Here's proof, made this guy...

I would be all over a Form 1 because it does exactly what I need in the size and resolution department. My only concern is the software. I can upload a model to Shapeways with more holes than a leaky bucket and it can usually make sense of it. I don't want to sink 3 grand into a machine only...

There are those of us who work on smaller scale mech stuff as well. N-scale is my preferred medium as I can have big battleships and spaceships while still having a few hundred robots in the same scale hanging around. Some new gundam stuff here before painting and such. There's big...

Just got a batch of this stuff to replace my old Chavant Hard for moldmaking stuff. (That Chavant is like 5 years old and somehow is giving me silicone cure problems. Probably years of collecting dust with sulfur in it from the refineries down here) So I figured I'd try this no-stick stuff...

Anybody else find it hilarious that they slammed Haliburton for oil management when their bread and butter is well logging and subcontracting?:popcorn

Bump to say this stuff is like magic! I know now why you guys say pressure casting is a must for tiny stuff. Vaccing the mixed silicone, then carefully pouring, then putting under pressure until it fully cured. No bubbles AT ALL. Abra-ca-perfect mold! I could cry. Fixing a couple of tiny...

You'd be better off just taking a 3D model and scaling and tweaking it for printing. 3D scanners are really only useful for art, historic objects and people. Like say you got your hands on access to the original studio scale bird. That would be worth the trouble of 3D laser scanning and...