Help: MPC Star Destroyer

I've been thinking of a cheat method for paneling. Gotta say masking panel after panel gets old.
Using a black marker to fill in panels then come in with final light grey coat and hopefully the filled
in panels will appear slightly darker. Not sure if it would work well or not.
I've had bad luck with black Sharpie markers not reacting well to acrylic paint. Haven't tried with enamels or lacquers.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I've had bad luck with black Sharpie markers not reacting well to acrylic paint. Haven't tried with enamels or lacquers.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I thought as much. Have to test some paint pens. What would be cool is if you could use a black pen and grey, and get various shades of paneling.
 
I had done some panelling with a pencil on mine then sealed it with a matt coat but the inaccuracies and the bulky rough details just don't cut it.
 
Here's my base coat. I used advice from steven giunta to mix vallejo acrylic white with a little bit of olive drab. I did a coat before this one but it was too thick and covered a good bit of the almost nonexistent detail so I removed that coat and added another with some acrylic thinner hoping it wouldn't glob up on the fine details.
Any criticisms or advice is much appreciated. Like what do yall mean by paneling?
20161224_224756[1].jpg
Also any advice on preventing this build up in the middle of my brush?
20161224_202808[1].jpg
 
I used just painters blue tape, it's not super tacky. Follow any natural lines the model may provide.
This is where an airbrush is helpful over rattle can paints, you can have precise control over a small
area so you don't need to mask off a large area.
 
This is where an airbrush is helpful over rattle can paints, you can have precise control over a small
area so you don't need to mask off a large area.

So you would use an airbrush for the panels instead of hand painting? Cause I can't really afford an airbrush right now and have been hand painting the whole thing.
 
Use what you have and you will get good with it. Soon, you will see limitations in what you can do with what you have and you will want to expand. That's when you start planning ahead and saving money for a bigger spray paint budget or airbrush set up. You don't need the most expensive stuff out there either. Buy a cheap one you can afford and then you can progress to a better one if you like using it.
 
So you would use an airbrush for the panels instead of hand painting? Cause I can't really afford an airbrush right now and have been hand painting the whole thing.

That should be fine for now, I agree with what was said above as you progress onto new projects.
The paneling should only be a little bit darker then the rest of the hull so a very thin coat hand painted should work, and that
will help to keep any paint from leaking under the masking tape.
Start with less is more thinking. The paneling has always been subtle on the Star Destroyers.
 
I know it has been a long while but I feel like I should explain why this thread has ended. I went on vacation shortly after my last post and while I was gone my dog had gotten a hold of my model. I don't have pics of the aftermath mainly cause I was pretty upset about it at the time. Hoping I can get a new kit and bring it to life!
 
If your looking to flex some detailing skills, I'd skip the MPC/ERTL kit and get the Revell kit. It is a much better base to work from and very nearly the same size (just a little larger) and also has much better details. Plus it will most likely be cheaper as well

Also the Zvedza kit has come out (and will soon be released by Revell of Germany as well) It is larger and more expensive, but it is worth it
 
If you are up for a challenge then this kit is it. I did mine before these new kits came out. I based it off photos from the 8ft studio model.
I got the following after market parts......
Resin engines from SSM
Resin Hangar kit from SSM
Shield array from Shapeways
Avenger bridge ace from Shapeways
I custom made the Turbolaser batteries. I also used a ton of evergreen styrene strips for all the added detail. I changed the super structure angles, trimmed the trench to be shorter in height,adjusted the bridge head angle etc.... It took me a few months to complete but I am happy with the end result. I didn't bother lighting as I was spent after all the styrene cutting and placing and couldn't be bothered going ahead with .25mm holes for fibre optics.
View attachment 20161012_131041.jpg20161012_131115.jpgView attachment 20161012_132823.jpg20161012_132842.jpgView attachment 20161012_133326.jpg
 
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