So I've had the urge to weather my tfa graflex, any thoughts on the most accurate weathering(amount, colors)?
Mine is coming in from Roman today, but from the one I saw the immediate thing that stuck out to me was the pins. If you suspend the top half in a closed bin with ammonia it will dull those pins right down and make them look much more vintage. The bulb springy thing should be changed to brass, and other than that I think some light scratching will really set it off as accurate, to the wired saber at least and that's about all I'll be doing.
I will definitely be doing all this when mine is in and will update the thread. Waiting on the TFA kit from Roy at the moment.
Oh man, you're going to love this thing. I carry it with me everywhere. I think I'm going to let the pins age naturally.
Do you mean the actual spring inside of the glass eye needs to be brass, or do you mean filing down the knurling? I already filed the knurling and am not worried about anything internal that can't be seen.
I was mostly wondering if the Prop Shop replica was an indicator of how much weathering there should be. I know that it's a little over-done on that replica but maybe there is some kind of middle-ground amount of weathering.
So is there any way to get the roman grips off? Freeze them? Can I reattach them with the same adhesive back?
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IIRC, all the contact pins were silver originally it's just that, with use, the metal plate wore off over time, exposing the brass underneath on many units. It's why the brass looks so worn and scuffed.
Hey guys, I'm sure this has been covered somewhere in this thread but which clamp cover by wannawanga is more movie accurate? The slotted one or stamped cover ?
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Buy them both so your covered get it?! "Covered"
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Anybody knows who supplied the grips on tfa graflex?
It's rumored that they were 3D printed I think