Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

cavx said:
WOW pair 3? Did you go the same size again? PM me your address again please and I will send you that GITD kit.
Click to expand...

Yep this will be the last of the V3's for me. Took a few months of saving to get them as my work gave me less hours lately. I'm trying 10.5 this time. Will PM you.
I will also be testing some blue dye I bought for my wear pair's soles, by mixing and painting it onto some other clear rubber I have here before I put it on the V3's. Haven't worked with dye for many years, and never tried to dye clear plastic/rubber before.
 
Let us Aussies know if you find the equivalent of sea glow. We have the synthetic RIT dye at Spot Light.

Need to redo my soles again. I did always say dying these soles is a band aid solution.

f8e6a4ef31e9b9ff8936f5ccdad7133c.jpg


This is my display pair that never sees the light of day.
 
FB_IMG_1488462953153-1.jpg

Guys, is there any solution to make the led bubble like RD ?
I saw tutorial and it seems that we need to open the circuit to make the led dimmer.
Is there an other solution with a spray, polish, any liquid?
If we make the bubble clear and not foggy, does it solve the problem ? Or at least is it better ?
 
cavx said:
Let us Aussies know if you find the equivalent of sea glow. We have the synthetic RIT dye at Spot Light.
Need to redo my soles again. I did always say dying these soles is a band aid solution.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170302/f8e6a4ef31e9b9ff8936f5ccdad7133c.jpg
This is my display pair that never sees the light of day.
Click to expand...
That's a pity they're yellowing already. I got some $15 'Dylon' dye at a Spotlight yesterday. Haven't seen anything like a seaglow in a physical shop here.
youngking59; you make the LED bubble clearer by painting a clear coat onto it. Lie the shoe down so the lights are facing up. Spray some clear spray paint into a container, then brush it carefully onto the ankle bubble, in a reasonably thick coat so you won't get brush marks. I used a cotton bud to paint it on with. The reason for lying the shoe down is that if you use a little too much paint, you won't get drip marks on the bubble. If you don't want it totally clear, use 'matt' finish. (i can't vouch for matt finish as I used gloss but it should make it less shiny) It helps, but doesn't completely balance the lights. Hence why I'm getting another pair with the updated lights. :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This thread is 429 pages long and almost impossible to search through. Can anyone advise on a tutorial which shows how to wire an EL panel to the battery that already is in the shoes? I have inverters at the moment but they are bulky and stuffed into the shoe making them uncomfortable to wear (plus I have to turn the strap on independently to the rest).

Also is there a tutorial on moving the button from the side to inside the white part of the ankle?

Thanks
 
youngking59 said:
Guys, is there any solution to make the led bubble like RD ?
I saw tutorial and it seems that we need to open the circuit to make the led dimmer.
Is there an other solution with a spray, polish, any liquid?
If we make the bubble clear and not foggy, does it solve the problem ? Or at least is it better ?
Click to expand...

f8e6a4ef31e9b9ff8936f5ccdad7133c.jpg


I did this to both pair and I used clear nail polish ($4.99 at a chemist or what you guys in the US call a drug store) and then gave it quick hit with 800 grit wet and dry sand paper, but only wet the paper. You don't want to wet the shoe. This is just takes the shine off the finish you've just applied without removing that layer.
 
youngking59 said:
Guys, is there any solution to make the led bubble like RD ?
I saw tutorial and it seems that we need to open the circuit to make the led dimmer.
Is there an other solution with a spray, polish, any liquid?
If we make the bubble clear and not foggy, does it solve the problem ? Or at least is it better ?
Click to expand...

If you are going for the closest to RD, I think its best to leave the bubble foggy and replace the board (or change the resistors yourself) the boards I make have the LEDS moved closer to the bubble which helps you see the LEDS better when the lights are off, that and resistors dimming them are probably the closest to RD. As cavx said though clearing the bubble also works. It makes them look better in person because you can actually see the individual colors when they are turned on (still wont show up correctly on camera though) Here's a comparison photo I did a few pages back to give you an idea of what looks you can achieve.
 

Attachments

  • MagComp.png
    MagComp.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 127
Last edited by a moderator:
FreddyTV said:
Wat did they upgrade on the V3s?
Click to expand...

They have altered the brightness of the LEDs, but I'm not sure I'd call it an upgrade. More like a just a tweak. Certainly nothing warranting a new ID number or anything. Some are calling this revised version (which is not available in all sizes yet BTW) V3.1 and I really think that is jumping the gun and will only cause more confusion than we currently have.
 
Hey everyone, who'd have thought Adidas would be the one to create something akin to the Mag, that's available to the public. I've just picked up a pair of these and the material they use as well as the bonding process to the rubber, is exactly what I'd expect to see in a public released Mag. Just thought I'd share this with you guys, can provide close ups of wanted

20170302_111927.jpg
 
That's kinda cool. Pity they didn't go with something other than laces, but still, not bad. The weave is a bit too coarse for my liking, but maybe that's just me. I did get an Adidas NMD a while back which has a very fine MAG-like weave. Pity they didn't come in a high-top at the time, that Boost stuff is awesome.
 
WizardBTTF said:
If you are going for the closest to RD, I think its best to leave the bubble foggy and replace the board (or change the resistors yourself) the boards I make have the LEDS moved closer to the bubble which helps you see the LEDS better when the lights are off, that and resistors dimming them are probably the closest to RD. As @cavx said though clearing the bubble also works. It makes them look better in person because you can actually see the individual colors when they are turned on (still wont show up correctly on camera though) Here's a comparison photo I did a few pages back to give you an idea of what looks you can achieve.
Click to expand...

do you have the boards available yet?
 
How are these wired? If all LEDs are wired in parallel, shouldn't there be 4 wires in total? I noticed that there is only 3 when I had my V3s apart.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
cavx said:
How are these wired? If all LEDs are wired in parallel, shouldn't there be 4 wires in total? I noticed that there is only 3 when I had my V3s apart.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

They are parallel with each led having its own resistor. 3 wires, but you only really need two since 2 of them are 3.7v and then 1 ground.
 
This thread is more than 3 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

Vadim
Back to the Future - Remote Sound SFX
Replies
0
Views
235
Vadim
Vadim
daniloferro
Does anyone know this Back To The Future jacket replica?
Replies
5
Views
1,039
daniloferro
daniloferro
VanOaksProps
Back to the Future II - Nike MAG tube bag 3D Model
Replies
10
Views
2,917
mhariush
mhariush
S
Question about Flux Capacitor from Back To The Future
Replies
4
Views
947
rjenkinsgb
rjenkinsgb
goldcylon
Factory Entertainment Back to the Future flux capacitor SE
Replies
12
Views
1,617
Coulombe
C
Back
Top