Yes. Not scary at all. Just took my time.
Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)
- Thread starter lukebrynycz
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- back to the future
spider2465
Well-Known Member
Can anyone tell me if you order a replacement pair if you get to keep the broken ones or do you have to send those back in order to get the new ones?
cavx
Master Member
And a new blade
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So far it seems everyone gets to keep the broken shoes. Your replacement pair is $110 or $120USD including shipping.
cavx
Master Member
I have made three sizes for the V2 soles that are multi-piece that glue together and I will certainly be making my own parts when I get my V3 shoes. It makes sense to sell off copies of these parts as Silicone is not cheap and to make one pair costs more than the shoes themselves.
@WizzardBTTF has made replacement parts for his shoes. You would have to ask him if he is going to do these as a commercial run or not.
From what I can see, the base sole is two parts and there is a lip that joins the two parts. The base plate and inner wings is one part and the outer wing is another.
This is just a mock up using parts from my V2 molds that have been modded to look like the V3 soles. You get the idea of what the part should look like.
You do need specialised equipment (and skill) to do this and why every MAG owner out there is not doing their own. I have a large (30 litres) vacuum chamber and I need to get a pressure pot or rework my molds to be smaller.
Wizzard has both vacuum and pressure chambers and why his parts are looking stellar.
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Ok, that helps. The verticals, maybe not the instep vertical, are a separate piece that is attached to the bottom outsoles. I take it the outsole pattern on the V2's is different from the V3's.
I saw saw you mention flexible polyurethane was the material you used, can you point to the actual product? I can see that on the latest Nike Jordan V retro, they have the blue tint to the clear outsole sections undoubtedly to address the UV yellowing.
I saw saw you mention flexible polyurethane was the material you used, can you point to the actual product? I can see that on the latest Nike Jordan V retro, they have the blue tint to the clear outsole sections undoubtedly to address the UV yellowing.
sthebest1984
New Member
I just got got my replacement pair in the mail and got to keep the broken ones. That's why I didn't mind opening up the sole to see what was going on with the EL panel. Worst case scenario is that I cane glue them back and keep wearing them
RVLF
Sr Member
So if i understand you can order a pair and if they break you can ask for an additional pair for 120$ and keep the old one (that you can fix)... ?
Makes me think that these shoes could be sold for 250$ and they still would make profit.
Let's hope that a non electronic pair will show up somedays that would be under 200$ (nothing would break on these and if you're not happy with this, well, you can modify them as you wish them to be)
Makes me think that these shoes could be sold for 250$ and they still would make profit.
Let's hope that a non electronic pair will show up somedays that would be under 200$ (nothing would break on these and if you're not happy with this, well, you can modify them as you wish them to be)
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MrSouthpaw
Sr Member
That would be great if they get that low.
Egos13
Well-Known Member
im kinda happy mine broke. Hell I tried to break them. Gives me a reason to mod without guilt as well as I know how fragile they are now.
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im kinda happy mine broke. Hell I tried to break them. Gives me a reason to mod without guilt as well as I know how fragile they are now.
cavx
Master Member
Not sure of the exact product. It is a "water clear, flexible polyurethane" which I source through a local supplier and have to buy 8KG to get a price break. The stuff I use has been tested in the harsh Aussie sun for over year and whilst it went cloudy, didn't go yellow much at all. About the same about as what you can see in the pair above which are not the polyurethane I am using. Those are rigid epoxy.
The factory tread on the V2 is a waffle, the same as the sides. When I made mine, I sourced a pyramid mat and used that for the base tread instead. I really like the grip it gives as well as cool look it has. It also leaves awesome shoe prints.
I also have a UV inhibitor and if I want true water clear, will add a small amount of clear blue pigment to the Part B. My latest set of soles have been on my V2s almost a year now and they are still very clear, though they do have ground in dirt on the base.
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@Nzfly Here are the soles and partial molds, there are 3 clear parts which make up each shoe. Molding and casting is very rewarding and I really enjoy it, I love to see more people get into it and start making their own stuff! However, if you have no experience I would not recommend this to be your first molding project. Thin parts, the finish really matters, clear (will show bubbles)...and the originals are flexible. All of this has to be taken into consideration when molding these. The main issue probably being the bubbles, as @cavx said I have the equipment to make bubble free castings. Also as you said there is a learning curve, when I first started getting into molding and casting I wasted a ton of materials...which can be discouraging. If you stick to it and have the money to blow in the beginning you will eventually be able to make all kinds of stuff!
As far as selling these UV stable soles...How much interest is there in size US 10 and 10.5? I know the molds I have at the moment will fit 10 and 10.5 for sure...possibly 9.5. I can do completely water clear or as much blue tint as you want. (The ones In the photo look more blue in the photo then in person) As far as pricing goes they would probably be a little over the $100 mark for a set. Which is a bargin to what you would spend on molds and materials to make them yourself lol. I am still working on my own pairs, but soon if there is interest I can start getting size 10 and 10.5 and possibly 9.5 out there. Then later on could see about more sizes too.
As far as selling these UV stable soles...How much interest is there in size US 10 and 10.5? I know the molds I have at the moment will fit 10 and 10.5 for sure...possibly 9.5. I can do completely water clear or as much blue tint as you want. (The ones In the photo look more blue in the photo then in person) As far as pricing goes they would probably be a little over the $100 mark for a set. Which is a bargin to what you would spend on molds and materials to make them yourself lol. I am still working on my own pairs, but soon if there is interest I can start getting size 10 and 10.5 and possibly 9.5 out there. Then later on could see about more sizes too.
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cavx
Master Member
LOL V2 clear soles was what I learned on
And the budget blew out into thousands before I got it right and was able to make my money back.
yellowkobe
Active Member
This might sound really stupid lol but can some post a vid of the proper way to charge these? For that price I would hate to mess em up as soon as I attempt to plug it in. Just want to see how you all hold it and plug it etc just to be safe...if possible.
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Cavx; @[I said:
yep. Patience is key with this as in many things. I haven't tried taking my V3 soles off yet, but have occasionally had to separate things that are glued together quite well. It can help to soften the glue with heat, but once you get an edge separating, you can gradually pull the parts away from each other, the glue will stretch, and you can actually cut through the glue. One little slice at a time. If it gets frustrating, do some till you start to get annoyed and want it to 'hurry up and be done' - at that point, put it down and come back to it a few hours later or something.
making it hurry up always makes it hurry up and turn to crap.Oh, and WizardBTTF, I'd be interested in a pair to suit size 10, just so you know. No rush, just letting you know
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DragonGalvy
Sr Member
I found on my V2s that what's locally (in Australia) called 'hot melt glue' worked quite well for holding the charge port and switch in place to the back of the shoe. The epoxys I've worked with are 2-part mix and stir, and rather more annoying to work with, though they do hold stronger. Positioning the switch in a particular spot enables me to turn the shoes on while I'm wearing them by pressing the buckle. A little closer to the original, at least until the V3 came out and made all our V2s seem very ordinary
Vormz
Sr Member
Can't wait to see pictures of your finished pair!!
sthebest1984
New Member
spider2465
Well-Known Member
When you guys pay via Western Union do you usually have to fill out a form AT Western Union for payment? I tried doing it online and I can't put in the address, only the name.
