How to plastic coat foam costume pieces
- Thread starter XRobots
- Start date
XRobots
Well-Known Member
Looks amazing - you really wouldn't know that was foam.
docholiday78
Sr Member
Heres it is painted. Just need to finish bottom back piece but anyways a foam helmet CAN look as good as a paper and fiberglass helmet but in half the time using XROBOTS method. Not to take anything away from other route but for me folding paper is just to time consuming.
StarksWarehouse
Active Member
i have to say, that looks pretty damn sweet! Well done James (XRobots) for coming up with this genius method and well done Doc for doing such a great job with it!
I would love to try this with mine but im wanting to mold and cast mine out of resin like James has. plenty of time to change my mind at the minute though. time will tell
OMG... that is incredible! I can't believe that is foam. What is it like? Is it still cushy and flexible or is it pretty stiff like a regular pepakura build with fiberglass and resin?
I was sure I was going to build a suit the traditional fiberglass/bondo way but this is making me reconsider. I would love to see/feel this before I decide though.
Hey doc, you wouldn't happen to live in Houston, TX would you???
OMG... that is incredible! I can't believe that is foam. What is it like? Is it still cushy and flexible or is it pretty stiff like a regular pepakura build with fiberglass and resin?
I was sure I was going to build a suit the traditional fiberglass/bondo way but this is making me reconsider. I would love to see/feel this before I decide though.
Hey doc, you wouldn't happen to live in Houston, TX would you???
I've started the fibreglass route but I'm thinking of jumping ships myself.
Quick question (I hope), how flexible is this once set? I'm thinking of making a neck seal from foam and was going to cut a split in the back so I can wear it. Would it be flexible enough to let me do this?
Cheers.
docholiday78
Sr Member
wow! thanks for the compliments, means alot comin from the pros. Darkside you rock man! Im doing your Mark 7 at the moment with Xrobots method. To answer your question it is hard like a fiberglass helmet but can flex. I even spread the check open to put my head in and it returns back to its original form. I put 2 coats of rondo. After the first coat i smoothed all bumps out then put second for extra strength. If u get it pretty smooth after first coat the after the second not much sanding cuz it self levels. And the cool thing is unlike paper/resin helmets no need to add foam inside cuz hey its made out of foam lol, Im from Washington, clear on the other side but got family over there
docholiday78
Sr Member
oh and make sure u seal the foam perfect before adding rondo. I thought 3 coats of modpodge would do it but added 2 more for good measure. Not the modpodge by brush i used spray can. it might not be be as good of a coat like the brush but im lazy and didnt want to hassle trying to smooth it with brush. hope it helps u guys n any more questions feel free to ask
docholiday78
Sr Member
SimonK yup it would be flexible enough. Ive done tthe paper/resin and there was no flex to it at all well for me anyways, so if yours is the same youll be pleasantly suprised of the out come.
STEALTH
Sr Member
Heres it is painted. Just need to finish bottom back piece but anyways a foam helmet CAN look as good as a paper and fiberglass helmet but in half the time using XROBOTS method. Not to take anything away from other route but for me folding paper is just to time consuming.
are you kidding me?
thumbsup
oh and make sure u seal the foam perfect before adding rondo. I thought 3 coats of modpodge would do it but added 2 more for good measure. Not the modpodge by brush i used spray can. it might not be be as good of a coat like the brush but im lazy and didnt want to hassle trying to smooth it with brush. hope it helps u guys n any more questions feel free to ask
Thanks doc. I would love to see you post some pics of your build in my thread. Also, link back to this thread so people can see how you did it. I posted a link a while back but it is about time to to post it again... newcomers don't read the whole thread, lol.
Well, the quality of this helmet far exceeds that of a foam build... good job. What about the weight of the helmet... does this weigh more than the fiberglass/bondo method? I haven't had a chance to watch the video tutorial yet. Did you put the rondo on the outside on top of the D65 plastic? If not, give me a rundown of the layers (ie. foam, pva, D65, rondo, paint, etc).
docholiday78
Sr Member
Lol stealth my man! Your hero tutorials started it all for me. Thanks for making those helpd me big time.
STEALTH
Sr Member
Doc man, I'm mirin' your helmet big time. Not sure if I'd ever make a foam helmet with this; but damn does that helmet ever look legit.
In the event I ever do try, I'm with Darkside. What is the process you did in regards to all the materials to get to that point?
Thanks Doc
docholiday78
Sr Member
Will do Darkside, here are pics of flexibilty again srry for crappy camera lol and I used these products below. 5 coats of mod, mixed the bondo and resin (rondo) and if someone hasnt used rondo before there are many tuts on youtube, and i suggest watching them before hand. make sure its mixed very well before adding hardner. Add enough bondo hardner (red) not the resin harder (clear) until its a good redish pink color, I posted pic of coated helmet in here. sanded smooth, primed it and paint. put some clear glaze spray can from walmart, wetsand and wax/ buff n it will look like pic below. Good luck ya"ll. also workin on suit for my 8 yr old son its robo file modified by Mr. Stealth
docholiday78
Sr Member
oh and this resin, I went the poor mans route but if done right you can still have a good outcome.
LoveofCountry
Member
Very informative Tutorial, appreciate it a lot.
just one question,
in the video you mention plastidip while applying the PVA. Is this to say the Plastidip will bond better to the foam if you used it after PVA and as an alternative to smooth on 65? I though the purpose of using plastidip was to be able to seal the foam and get it to take metallic paints better to achieve the look you're talking about from fiberglass or plastic.
I'm just getting into foam builds now so I'm a little overwhelmed and the amount of information. Appreciate any help.
just one question,
in the video you mention plastidip while applying the PVA. Is this to say the Plastidip will bond better to the foam if you used it after PVA and as an alternative to smooth on 65? I though the purpose of using plastidip was to be able to seal the foam and get it to take metallic paints better to achieve the look you're talking about from fiberglass or plastic.
I'm just getting into foam builds now so I'm a little overwhelmed and the amount of information. Appreciate any help.
XRobots
Well-Known Member
Plastipdip is what I did my original suit in (after the PVA coat), but the finish will be nothing like using a plastic coating as shown.
Great... your son's suit looks awesome too! So did you use the D65? or just the Rondo? Are there any cracks in the paint from flexing the helmet? Is the inside just the soft foam (no coating)?
Also there is this stuff which might be really nice for filling seams...
http://www.amazon.com/Mod-Podge-Dimensiona...ref=pd_sim_hg_9
And this which sounds interesting..
Product Description
Mod Podge is 40 years old, but this classic decoupage glue still has its cool. Planning to decoupage a medium to large piece of furniture? This formula is perfect to create a long-lasting treasure. Great for projects that are frequently used such as chairs, bookshelves, room dividers and more. The hard coat formula dries to an extra-durable protective, clear finish. Quick-drying formula allows for multiple coat build up, sand between multiple coats for an ultra-smooth finish. Cleans up easily with soap and water. Certified AP non-toxic and water based.
http://www.amazon.com/Podge-CS11245-8-Ounc...ref=pd_sim_hg_9
http://www.amazon.com/Mod-Podge-Dimensiona...ref=pd_sim_hg_9
And this which sounds interesting..
Product Description
Mod Podge is 40 years old, but this classic decoupage glue still has its cool. Planning to decoupage a medium to large piece of furniture? This formula is perfect to create a long-lasting treasure. Great for projects that are frequently used such as chairs, bookshelves, room dividers and more. The hard coat formula dries to an extra-durable protective, clear finish. Quick-drying formula allows for multiple coat build up, sand between multiple coats for an ultra-smooth finish. Cleans up easily with soap and water. Certified AP non-toxic and water based.
http://www.amazon.com/Podge-CS11245-8-Ounc...ref=pd_sim_hg_9
