Deagostini Falcon. Anyone seen this?

I feel really disappointing with the last 2 issues .- posters are absolute rubbish , the remote is a cheap thingy and I WE paid £9 for that?//
also even MR got the bits why in this one are missing few parts? that is bothering me a lot.-

what other parts are missing?.. anybody has check the full finished falcon?..

wall6.jpg~original.jpg
cheers
 
Hey Rahn420, you didn't happen to take any photos of the frame all together did you? Would be helpful to see the full frame by itself.

Yes I did, but the overhead lights cast SO many crazy shadows through the frame that the photos are kind of 'confusing'.

The frame is still together (it acts as motivation) as I have been working on the interior elements.

I will shoot some more photos under more ambient light conditions tomorrow.

If there is any particular area that anyone would like focused on, just let me know.
 
So, I'm curious--after more than 30 years, would the age of the original prop cause changes to the colors of the paintjob? They've kept it in good condition, but wouldn't it change just naturally over time?
 
To all who have already made some progress on the hull construction: Do you feel that the framework actually makes it stronger? From the videos on youtube, I get the impression that it is very soft and weak for its mass. As I already plan to do major changes to the structure, I'm playing with the thought to just weld the plastic panels together and do a completely new structure, more like the original one... I'm not interested in the interiour anyways and would rather be able to mount it on the original mounting points... any thoughts?
 
So, I'm curious--after more than 30 years, would the age of the original prop cause changes to the colors of the paintjob? They've kept it in good condition, but wouldn't it change just naturally over time?

It depends on what the conditions on how the model was stored, which includes lighting, but paint, generally degrades over time. Even paint that has additives to protect it from UV rays degrades. Camera flashes and general lighting causes problems. Who knows how many times those studio models were knowingly photographed not to mention unknowingly. Its impossible to tell how much the paint degraded unless the colour was recorded initially before painting, or the paint and mixing were accurately recorded, and the paint job being tested now.

TazMan2000
 
Anyone planning on doing up a really good paint tutorial for us noobs when painting this up?!

I'm sure many would appreciate it.

I would appreciate it!
 
To all who have already made some progress on the hull construction: Do you feel that the framework actually makes it stronger? From the videos on youtube, I get the impression that it is very soft and weak for its mass. As I already plan to do major changes to the structure, I'm playing with the thought to just weld the plastic panels together and do a completely new structure, more like the original one... I'm not interested in the interiour anyways and would rather be able to mount it on the original mounting points... any thoughts?

Although I am not really the right person to answer your question as i have not begun building the kit yet (still waiting until I have the whole kit first), I have thought a lot about exactly what you are talking about.

I do not see that just gluing the plates together is going to work very well, and you are probably going to still need to build a base structure to build those on.

As for mine, I too am not going to be using the interior or moving ramp (I will be staying as close to the studio prop as possible) and I have also been thinking on plans for an internal system in which to use for mounting, but I really see no reason to forgo the framework unless you are super worried about the weight. The full kit, interior and all, only weighs about 11 kilos (24lbs), which is not that much IMO, and there are several benefits from keeping it. The most useful benefit (for me) is that you can actually use the framework's given mounting points to build an internal mount (they were meant to be used outside but you can fill and patch those holes and still use the mounting holes from the inside). One other benefit of doing this is that by bracing the frame from the inside it will greatly strengthen it while creating optional mounting points where you may wish.

I have tossed around several ideas about a way to make an internal mount but one of the best ideas was from another subscriber who made a cross beam that attached to the internal mounting holes and came out the lower window (like the original prop), it looks very simple to make and would work great (I think he even sells these).

scan456_scaled50_00.jpg15056364_10154296729537690_6121918074109584668_n.jpg

Other ideas I have had are about how I could make mounts come out the sides as well as the lower window area...maybe something like this:

scan456_scaled50_01.jpg

One more idea is to just use a metal (or other strong material) plate to use as the internal mount, this one would probably be simple to do as well, you would only need to measure the hole placements and just bolt it to the frame (all of these mounts could be raised or lowered inside by putting spacers under the four internal mounting bolts) you could then screw into that thru the lower window.

scan456_scaled50_02.jpg

Just some ideas for you to look at really...

One thing that I don't like about the frame is the large hole they built into it for the removable panels over the hold interior, it worries me that by not putting the interior hold walls in you lose some of the structural strength along the top as those walls seem to actually brace the framework. I may have to do something about that as well
 
Although I am not really the right person to answer your question as i have not begun building the kit yet (still waiting until I have the whole kit first), I have thought a lot about exactly what you are talking about.

I do not see that just gluing the plates together is going to work very well, and you are probably going to still need to build a base structure to build those on.

Sure, a structure is needed, I agree. But I think the one provided is not optimal, if you want to have it strong and add mounting points like on the original. Especially, I don't like the way the mandibles are supported. I don't have a feeling for the weight and stability, that's why I asked. If I were to rebuild it, I'd probably try to adapt the structure of the original model as close as necessary, with all the mounting points.

Any thoughts of progressed builders?
 
Here are the photos of the naked frame.

P1010162_1_zpsbwkxvgmn.jpgP1010163_1_zpsbzcmh6do.jpgP1010164_1_zpserf8ogdj.jpgP1010165_1_zpszvtifzfi.jpg
P1010167_1_zpsvwkj9mfs.jpgP1010168_1_zpsqmyhzwgv.jpgP1010169_1_zpsxifapsoi.jpgP1010170_1_zps8dx9ucif.jpg
P1010171_1_zpswxnpjrht.jpgP1010166_1_zpsfwph6h9i.jpgP1010173_1_zpszrlds3b9.jpgP1010174_1_zps7hkuqoir.jpg

I think, overall, it's not too flimsy, considering once the hull plates are installed.

With the exception I mentioned about the right mandible, it's pretty rigid.

Once the plating it layered on, considering the plates join it different angles than the frame, it should stiffen up even more.

I had assembled the frame to assess if I wanted to use the photoetch gunner stations.

I am of the feeling that the gunner stations and their connecting tube act as the main support for the center of the model. I fear the photoetch would not provide the same support. I would have liked a PE set that would have acted as veneers on the existing plastic. I know the shape of the PE stations are more accurate, but I have concerns about support.

One photo shows the support beams at the rear. I would have liked to have see a few more of these arround the model. I know there are two more, but they bridge between hull plates, not the frame.

I would definitly only handle the model from the sides.

I would also think that even if you don't plan to use the hold, I would still install the walls for more support of the top.

I saw that on one of Ian Lawrence's builds, he laminted the inside with fiberglass.

I've considered, once the hull halves are built, running plastic welder along the inside plate seams.

I, too, have wanted an interior bracket to make a central mount, but I would want to be able to use the hold.
 
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I feel really disappointing with the last 2 issues .- posters are absolute rubbish , the remote is a cheap thingy and I WE paid £9 for that?//
also even MR got the bits why in this one are missing few parts? that is bothering me a lot.-

what other parts are missing?.. anybody has check the full finished falcon?..

cheers

Looks like we're missing a lot of details on the inner edges of the main hull for a start.:(
 
Can anyone verify the correct orientation of the 'boxes' on the gear struts?

DeAgostini has them assembled as...

98_131_zpsa9qbo0ky.jpg

While the old MPC kit has them as...

P1010175_zpsmo3xcbs3.jpg
 
Hmmm... It also looks like the rear pad should not have a toe. They seem a bit closer together and connected to each other, too.
 
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