Yep they're silver. 
Farnsworth Discussion
- Thread starter Gordon Gekko
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- warehouse 13
I received the new Switchcraft button described above and it works perfectly. I got it super low profile by removing all but 2 sections and snipping the screws shorter, and the height visible on the front of the plate is perfect, it doesn't stick out more than it should. I managed to get all the electronics in there AND keep the plate about 1/4" below the top lip. Here is the updated functionality. I changed it to have a 4 second delay, and different audio clips on answer when you turn the left knob to 1 of 4 positions.
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JakeTheLobster
New Member
Do you have an update on the bottom right switch?
DemonFire
Sr Member
Nice work on the faceplate, it came out looking great. Love the idle static sound you have when the farnsworth is activated, where did you pick that up from?
One thing I still want to go back on mine and do is the switch on the bottom left sticks up a little to high still and I can't fully close it comfortably. I remember already cutting down the post as far as I felt comfortable doing since it was my second one as I screwed up the first by cutting it to low. from what I can seeing there is a little "shelf" as I'm calling it on the inside of the knob that it it was just shaved down a bit I think that would solve it.
Has anyone else run into that? I'll post a pic later when I get home from work tonight.
Thanks! I made the static sound myself in Audacity with a combination of free static sounds i found around the net.
I'm having some trouble with the faceplate, I wanted to get that deep yellow color seen in the early season faceplates, which is also a matte finish, but the bluing started to eventually wear off the more i touched it. The yellowing color did start to appear though the more I let it sit. However i want to seal that patina in somehow, and keep it matte. I tried a matte clearcoat but it scratched off too easy so I took it off. I've found that there are satin brass lacquers out there, but nothing I can pickup locally i dont think.
I'm having some trouble with the faceplate, I wanted to get that deep yellow color seen in the early season faceplates, which is also a matte finish, but the bluing started to eventually wear off the more i touched it. The yellowing color did start to appear though the more I let it sit. However i want to seal that patina in somehow, and keep it matte. I tried a matte clearcoat but it scratched off too easy so I took it off. I've found that there are satin brass lacquers out there, but nothing I can pickup locally i dont think.
DemonFire
Sr Member
cool I might have to look at putting something like that together for mine. Right now I just have 3 settings on mine immediate ring, and 2 delayed settings.
So here is what going on with my switch, looking at it it looks like the copper(?) shelf ring on the inside of the knob is hitting the threaded part on the switch. I believe this is what holding it from going down further thus preventing me from closing it all the way. When the knob is attached its not even close to flush with the faceplate. Anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this issue?
So here is what going on with my switch, looking at it it looks like the copper(?) shelf ring on the inside of the knob is hitting the threaded part on the switch. I believe this is what holding it from going down further thus preventing me from closing it all the way. When the knob is attached its not even close to flush with the faceplate. Anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this issue?
JakeTheLobster
New Member
Do you have any recommendations for a faceplate? I want to use the Wheatley box and have tried to cut my own plate. Let's just say, it didn't work out well. If be willing to pay for a commissioned work?
JakeTheLobster
New Member
What is the name of this new button? I'd like to purchase this part!
PDT Momentary On On Pushbutton Switch Switchcraft Open Frame
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=209598
Demonfire: Did you seal your faceplate weathering with anything? I tried several clearcoats and even a lacquer spray meant for metal, any everything can scratch off with my fingernail.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=209598
Demonfire: Did you seal your faceplate weathering with anything? I tried several clearcoats and even a lacquer spray meant for metal, any everything can scratch off with my fingernail.
DemonFire
Sr Member
No I didn't seal the faceplate with anything, I'll try and rub it a little to see if any comes off.
As far as the knob goes, it's not hitting the hex screw at all but the top of the threading. Seems like I'll have to figure out a way to file down the inside of the knob or see if there is another position switch out there that will work for that.
What did you happen to use for that? Nothing was every spec'd when I was doing it so I just found something that suited the situation.
As far as the knob goes, it's not hitting the hex screw at all but the top of the threading. Seems like I'll have to figure out a way to file down the inside of the knob or see if there is another position switch out there that will work for that.
What did you happen to use for that? Nothing was every spec'd when I was doing it so I just found something that suited the situation.
BeachcomberBob
Active Member
It depends on a couple of factors. I don't have a 'wheatley' case here to take measurements from, and there are old antique ones that surface on auction sites, as well as new ones from their website etc.
Can you take accurate measurements of the case you have? I would need to have the inside width and height, plus the radii of the corners. It will have to be spot-on or you end up with nasty gaps when you come to fit it.
I would also need to know what size lens hole you want. Do you want it with the four rivets fitted, and would you want it as fresh brass or 'antique aged'?
From all this I could make up a fresh piece of artwork and etch a custom plate from brass sheet.
Then there's that awkward subject - money. I have been helping other crafters out with their Farnsworth builds in terms of my time & effort, but I have to cover the cost of materials and shipping. How far are you willing to go for a custom commission?
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So here's something Ive been trying to figure out. Has anyone ever seen a gold Wheatley box with the corner rivets? Ever? I have only ever seen them in silver, but we know that even the Farnsworths with rivets in the corners, on front AND back, still have the gold trim around the inside. If the rivets were only on the front I would say they just pulled out the hinge pin and combined different boxes, but that's not the case.
I know on some of the screen used photos, you can see that some of the boxes used were indeed silver, particularly where the hinge paint has worn off, yet they still have the gold trim around the opening. I guess its possible they painted that trim or transplanted it from another box, but the work of doing that and replacing the rivets that hold that all in place seems like a lot of work for something so random.
I know on some of the screen used photos, you can see that some of the boxes used were indeed silver, particularly where the hinge paint has worn off, yet they still have the gold trim around the opening. I guess its possible they painted that trim or transplanted it from another box, but the work of doing that and replacing the rivets that hold that all in place seems like a lot of work for something so random.
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BeachcomberBob
Active Member
For my first Farnsworth, I painted the alloy rim with brass enamel. Like you say, it wore off in places after a few times of opening and closing. For the MKII 'Warehouse Brown' one I'm presently building, and the Claudia 'Farnsworth's Farnsworth' that's currently on hold for want of a suitable tft screen, I drilled out the tube rivets and replaced the alloy rims with solid brass strip, cut to size. I sourced the tiny brass tube rivets from a Far Eastern supplier (a whole bag full) for not much money, and the setting pliers were a second-hand Ebay find. Yes, it's a bit involved, but the devil is in the detail, and not so bad with the right tool.
BeachcomberBob
Active Member
Here's what it looks like.
