War-Machine MkIII - Redesigned!!!
- Thread starter Murdoch
- Start date
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
Lookin' good!
Lookin' good!
Murdoch
Sr Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
Hey guys, i did'nt want to start an wanted thread as this subject is related to my current build. So my wife asks me what would i like for christmas. I guess tools pertaining to the build would be cool. Problem is i don't know really all the goodies that i do need. Now don't get me wrong, i don't mean for this to sound selfish. But she did ask. I just thought if i had a small list of items under the $100. mark. All i have is a xato knife, a cheap dremel a few standard household tools. I know that i would need a soldering iron and maybe a better dremel. Please, if you have any thoughts chime in. Thanx guys, i should have some updates on my helm soon...GM
Hey guys, i did'nt want to start an wanted thread as this subject is related to my current build. So my wife asks me what would i like for christmas. I guess tools pertaining to the build would be cool. Problem is i don't know really all the goodies that i do need. Now don't get me wrong, i don't mean for this to sound selfish. But she did ask. I just thought if i had a small list of items under the $100. mark. All i have is a xato knife, a cheap dremel a few standard household tools. I know that i would need a soldering iron and maybe a better dremel. Please, if you have any thoughts chime in. Thanx guys, i should have some updates on my helm soon...GM
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
A good one I got for my birthday was a mini sander/polisher from micro mark. It's really good for rough shaping the bondo for a build. You, however, need to also have the power supply/transformer, which is sold separately. But I believe both together are under $100
A good one I got for my birthday was a mini sander/polisher from micro mark. It's really good for rough shaping the bondo for a build. You, however, need to also have the power supply/transformer, which is sold separately. But I believe both together are under $100
Murdoch
Sr Member
GhostMinion
Sr Member
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Murdoch
Sr Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
I was thinking about failed helmets of my past, and how my technique was flawed. I would always pep the helm, then coat the inside and out with resin then fibreglass. Now thats is the problem right there. I would always seem to goof up the fibreglassing as getting inside the helm was too difficult to get into. I don't wish to repeat this again. I had tried to find a thread on the right process, but i can be reading forever. So i had thought if i had did several coats of resin inside and out for stability and then cut the areas first, faceplate-jaw ect. and then re-resined spots that i missed and then fibreglass that should be a more effective. I would welcome any input from veterans in this area. Thanx folks in advace...GM
I was thinking about failed helmets of my past, and how my technique was flawed. I would always pep the helm, then coat the inside and out with resin then fibreglass. Now thats is the problem right there. I would always seem to goof up the fibreglassing as getting inside the helm was too difficult to get into. I don't wish to repeat this again. I had tried to find a thread on the right process, but i can be reading forever. So i had thought if i had did several coats of resin inside and out for stability and then cut the areas first, faceplate-jaw ect. and then re-resined spots that i missed and then fibreglass that should be a more effective. I would welcome any input from veterans in this area. Thanx folks in advace...GM
Beard
Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
Hello, first i want to say good work so far, I really dig it. Secondly as for your question of technique, upping the coats of resin, than cutting/fiberglassing, it sounds plausible. Forgive my possible ignorance of my next comment, but i've heard the term "slush casting" several times in various threads, including one way of resining both sides and than using a urethane plastic(smooth-on65D or a like product) on the inside. Not sure about this process, i could be missing some steps, but it kinda sounds like it could work. Like I said forgive my ignorance if said something that makes no sense, I have yet to try it but plan to in the near future. I hope I said something helpful, cant wait for future updates from you, keep up the great work
Hello, first i want to say good work so far, I really dig it. Secondly as for your question of technique, upping the coats of resin, than cutting/fiberglassing, it sounds plausible. Forgive my possible ignorance of my next comment, but i've heard the term "slush casting" several times in various threads, including one way of resining both sides and than using a urethane plastic(smooth-on65D or a like product) on the inside. Not sure about this process, i could be missing some steps, but it kinda sounds like it could work. Like I said forgive my ignorance if said something that makes no sense, I have yet to try it but plan to in the near future. I hope I said something helpful, cant wait for future updates from you, keep up the great work
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
Slush casting isn't done with smooth on, that has to be brushed in thin layers. Slush casting can be done with rondo, a bondo and resin mix. It works pretty good, but leaves a heavy helmet. But it is way faster.
Slush casting isn't done with smooth on, that has to be brushed in thin layers. Slush casting can be done with rondo, a bondo and resin mix. It works pretty good, but leaves a heavy helmet. But it is way faster.
Murdoch
Sr Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
Hey Ghost have you read my second last post? An thoughts...GM
Hey Ghost have you read my second last post? An thoughts...GM
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Re: War-Machine MkIII
I'm just a little confused. What do you mean by you "goofed it up"? What exactly went wrong?
The method I use is pretty solid, but takes forever. First thing I do, obviously, is resin the outside. Nice and thin. Then I'll resin the inside, just as thin. Then I lay bit by bit my cloth, and when I resin the cloth I also keep that layer thin.
Keep in mind, that I avoid the areas where the faceplate and rear of the helmet are clipped to the rest of the helmet. As to avoid "gluing" them together.
Then I do two thin layers of resin, then cloth. Then two thin layers, then cloth. It's slow, but avoids "goofing". Eventually, I unclip the faceplate and rear part, and then resin the borders and edges to all the parts.
I have recently been using some slush casting with rondo, and I've had good success with it. I can see how it could goof up a lid, but again, with careful and slow preparation, you can use this method and speed things up a little.
Trouble with this is, however, the helmet will get heavy quick. In my case, it's no bother because I'm gonna mold mine. But if you intend to wear the one your making, this may be a concern.
I'm just a little confused. What do you mean by you "goofed it up"? What exactly went wrong?
The method I use is pretty solid, but takes forever. First thing I do, obviously, is resin the outside. Nice and thin. Then I'll resin the inside, just as thin. Then I lay bit by bit my cloth, and when I resin the cloth I also keep that layer thin.
Keep in mind, that I avoid the areas where the faceplate and rear of the helmet are clipped to the rest of the helmet. As to avoid "gluing" them together.
Then I do two thin layers of resin, then cloth. Then two thin layers, then cloth. It's slow, but avoids "goofing". Eventually, I unclip the faceplate and rear part, and then resin the borders and edges to all the parts.
I have recently been using some slush casting with rondo, and I've had good success with it. I can see how it could goof up a lid, but again, with careful and slow preparation, you can use this method and speed things up a little.
Trouble with this is, however, the helmet will get heavy quick. In my case, it's no bother because I'm gonna mold mine. But if you intend to wear the one your making, this may be a concern.
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