The Winter Soldier - Costume Research Thread
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westarsmith
Active Member
The right side holster is made of .125" plastic sheet. Glued and screwed together. The guns are held on by screws from the back as is the benchmade, because they are all resin.
The gerber fits in a slot behind the COP .357 That I built into the holster during construction. The blade on the gerber casting is only about 1 inch (enough to keep it in the holster) and secured from behind with a screw.
The gerber fits in a slot behind the COP .357 That I built into the holster during construction. The blade on the gerber casting is only about 1 inch (enough to keep it in the holster) and secured from behind with a screw.
westarsmith
Active Member
No. It's resin but I got it on Amazon. It's called "Blade Runner Leon's pistol" or you can search with "cop .357". All I did was paint it and put real screws in the grip panels.
vonviolet
New Member
After a hectic week of rushing to get the jacket done for CTcon among other things, I want to relay things to do and not to do:
For sewing pleather here are some tips/sites I found handy:
http://ololi-makes.blogspot.com/2011/12/tips-on-sewing-with-faux-leather.html
http://craftfondue.com/how-to-sew-pleather-without-a-teflon-foot/
http://paradisodesigns.blogspot.com/2011/01/method-monday-tutorial-on-pleathervinyl.html
http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resour...sh-plush-trends-fabriccom-sewing-faux-leather
Some of my fav pics from the shoots we did:
Photos by: The Wasp's Nest, Junerevolver (middle 2), and Gingerjuju
Lots of fixes and additions need to be made, but it was a good first go!
3/4" snaps were hard to find, I used these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO67BGY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't use plasti-dip to cover them, it peals off the metal. The acrylic paint stayed pretty well but chipped when I hammered the snaps on.
I used a lace front wig, that is not my real hair! I got an Outre Lace Front Wig - Zenn, from divatress.com for $25. Unstyled you could see wefts when shook, so I made extra wefts from the hair I cut off and hand sewed them in. Though the wig was tight, the teeth clips inside did an excellent job keeping the wig in place all day.
- Give yourself more than 4-5 solid days (8hrs/day) to do the jacket (from patterning, to cutting and sewing, etc)
- Reinforce the spots where the snaps are or else they will rip out if you used cheap pleather like I did. (Bring safety pins if this happens.)
- Attach the ribbed turtle neck part to a shirt underneath. It just flopped around attached to the jacket.
- Do wear a cotton undershirt to wick away sweat, being in pleather in 80+ fahrenheit is murder. Natural fibers breathe, synthetic don't.
- Use a separating zipper, like the ones on rain coats. I hecked up and didn't realize I bought one with a stopper so I had to make my jacket slip over my head.
- Reinforce the high stress areas on the craft foam with duct tape or epoxy on the back side to prevent ripping. Or use thicker craft foam. My harness and side holster broke within hours. D: Duct tape saved the day this time.
- The hot glued metal parts on my glove fell off as time passed. I recommend drawing them on. To be fair, I took it on and off many times as I was doing drawing commissions.
- As recommend by RaMMYz (we met as con!) add extra hidden snaps on the harness so you can snap it to the coat so it won't ride up
- If needed rig the upper arm to the jacket or around your chest so it doesn't slip down. Mine kept slipping down, very annoying.
- If using paper mache as a base, line it with duct tap to prevent sweat from making the paper damp which increases the chance of ripping.
- Pad the pleather sleeve to match the metal arm. I ran out of time and had to skip this.
- 3" for the collar is a terrible idea, I hemmed mine down to 2.5"-ish.
For sewing pleather here are some tips/sites I found handy:
http://ololi-makes.blogspot.com/2011/12/tips-on-sewing-with-faux-leather.html
http://craftfondue.com/how-to-sew-pleather-without-a-teflon-foot/
http://paradisodesigns.blogspot.com/2011/01/method-monday-tutorial-on-pleathervinyl.html
http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resour...sh-plush-trends-fabriccom-sewing-faux-leather
Some of my fav pics from the shoots we did:
Photos by: The Wasp's Nest, Junerevolver (middle 2), and Gingerjuju
Lots of fixes and additions need to be made, but it was a good first go!
3/4" snaps were hard to find, I used these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO67BGY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't use plasti-dip to cover them, it peals off the metal. The acrylic paint stayed pretty well but chipped when I hammered the snaps on.
I used a lace front wig, that is not my real hair! I got an Outre Lace Front Wig - Zenn, from divatress.com for $25. Unstyled you could see wefts when shook, so I made extra wefts from the hair I cut off and hand sewed them in. Though the wig was tight, the teeth clips inside did an excellent job keeping the wig in place all day.
RaMMYz
New Member
Thanks for the shout out! It was awesome meeting you.
I haven't started my construction yet but I'm trying to help as many soldiers as possible with my knowledge. I helped start a fb page called The Bucky Birgade in hopes of extending a helping hand to fellow soldiers not on this forum. Please feel free to joining post!
On that note how many people are casting and thinking of selling the various knives?
The h-harness snap suggested came about when I noticed a few soldiers harnesses riding up from the weight of the attatched skorpion. Velcro on the back of the belt is a great suggestion to hold it in place as well as creating a bathing suit like piece on the jacket to help hold it down.
I haven't started my construction yet but I'm trying to help as many soldiers as possible with my knowledge. I helped start a fb page called The Bucky Birgade in hopes of extending a helping hand to fellow soldiers not on this forum. Please feel free to joining post!
On that note how many people are casting and thinking of selling the various knives?
The h-harness snap suggested came about when I noticed a few soldiers harnesses riding up from the weight of the attatched skorpion. Velcro on the back of the belt is a great suggestion to hold it in place as well as creating a bathing suit like piece on the jacket to help hold it down.
Last edited:
arivin923
Well-Known Member
Freakzter's right, you guys look great! RaMMYz, love the TFA Bucky! I've had mine almost done for a year now, just need to remake the jacket again to fit better (hoping to get it done for Boston Comic-Con).
Been gathering all the various bits and pieces (I've got most of the weapons now) while my friend's been working on the suit itself. Here's some shots of the mockup (obviously not the final fabrics):
Been gathering all the various bits and pieces (I've got most of the weapons now) while my friend's been working on the suit itself. Here's some shots of the mockup (obviously not the final fabrics):
Freakzter
Active Member
so i also ordered the metal buckle some time ago and it finally arrived yesterday. and also like the previous review, i took photos to try to show that it really is not as light colored as in the stock photos. if there was such a color as "black chrome" then this is it. it is very durable as i have already dropped it several times by accident, however the finish on it is not. as i toyed around with it trying to figure out how to attach it to a MOLLE belt (the buckle is not meant for belts this wide) i managed to nick the surface in some areas and the original (lighter and sort of yellowish) metal underneath shows. however it's not enough to really bother me as it doesn't really seem to show up in the photos. the nicks are very very small.
for the pouches, i am adamant about them actually being functional so i bought some q-tip holders and i am just going to paint those black and attach them to the belt with velcro or elastic. also i ended up attaching the buckle to the belt with yarn. the belt stays on very well but it is not screen accurate, more like "loosely based on it." i am more concerned with it being durable at this point and being made out of "real belt parts" so it could hold up to everything it had to carry (grenades, Y strap holster, tanto knives, etc)
for the pouches, i am adamant about them actually being functional so i bought some q-tip holders and i am just going to paint those black and attach them to the belt with velcro or elastic. also i ended up attaching the buckle to the belt with yarn. the belt stays on very well but it is not screen accurate, more like "loosely based on it." i am more concerned with it being durable at this point and being made out of "real belt parts" so it could hold up to everything it had to carry (grenades, Y strap holster, tanto knives, etc)
vonviolet
New Member
RaMMYz - No problem! Still can't get over how excellent you Howling Commandos Bucky is. Many thanks for the advice too! Will put it to good use. 
Freakzter - Thanks! Nice review on the buckle! If I ever do some serious upgrades I'll get one. Here are some photos of my finished harness (pre-convention).
*I repainted the silver part black because silver was very jarring to look at. Technically should be a dark grey, but I liked it black. I'll probably remake this out of fabric and foam since the craft foam ripped. I sacrificed some screen accuracy so I could make it adjustable and easier to snap on. I used 3/16 silver grommets (couldn't find black in stores near me) and to prevent fraying I used fray stop and or fray check so the cut spots didn't unravel. You will need a setter for the grommets, I used this one. I don't recommend eyelets because they won't secure all the fibers and rip out easier; grommets are 2 parts and hold better. The strap sizes are 1.5" and 2". This took about a full day to measure and rig, half the time I spaced out trying to figure out how to make this functional. @_@ Went though a lot of matches sealing the ends too. I used nearly all of the 5 yrds of 1.5" and maybe over a yard of 2". Hope this helps anyone looking to make the harness!
Also kneepads! Used my pattern and they came out pretty good using the cording suggestion.
The cording is 1/16" and I used 2 pieces per rib. I was going to use the cording for Corvo from Dishonored but I keep pushing it off. I used plasti-dip to cover the metal parts (came off again don't recommend), and 3/4" elastic and velcro to secure it. I velcrowed the backs with craft foam to provide actual padding. These came out very comfortable. I used some 10oz. bull denim (again for Corvo, never used it), but if I were to redo this costume I'd use black canvas/duck cloth.
After doing the jacket and sleeve thing I have refs/material suggestions:
The super close up looks kevlar but I think black canvas/duck cloth would be fine.
A lot of the underarm of the sleeve is fabric too:
Freakzter - Thanks! Nice review on the buckle! If I ever do some serious upgrades I'll get one. Here are some photos of my finished harness (pre-convention).
*I repainted the silver part black because silver was very jarring to look at. Technically should be a dark grey, but I liked it black. I'll probably remake this out of fabric and foam since the craft foam ripped.
I sacrificed some screen accuracy so I could make it adjustable and easier to snap on. I used 3/16 silver grommets (couldn't find black in stores near me) and to prevent fraying I used fray stop and or fray check so the cut spots didn't unravel. You will need a setter for the grommets, I used this one. I don't recommend eyelets because they won't secure all the fibers and rip out easier; grommets are 2 parts and hold better. The strap sizes are 1.5" and 2". This took about a full day to measure and rig, half the time I spaced out trying to figure out how to make this functional. @_@ Went though a lot of matches sealing the ends too. I used nearly all of the 5 yrds of 1.5" and maybe over a yard of 2". Hope this helps anyone looking to make the harness!Also kneepads! Used my pattern and they came out pretty good using the cording suggestion.
The cording is 1/16" and I used 2 pieces per rib. I was going to use the cording for Corvo from Dishonored but I keep pushing it off. I used plasti-dip to cover the metal parts (came off again don't recommend), and 3/4" elastic and velcro to secure it. I velcrowed the backs with craft foam to provide actual padding. These came out very comfortable. I used some 10oz. bull denim (again for Corvo, never used it), but if I were to redo this costume I'd use black canvas/duck cloth.
After doing the jacket and sleeve thing I have refs/material suggestions:
The super close up looks kevlar but I think black canvas/duck cloth would be fine.
A lot of the underarm of the sleeve is fabric too:
westarsmith
Active Member
Nice work, vonviolet,. Thanks for the practical experience observations. Very helpful.
Looks like you had fun, too!
Looks like you had fun, too!
Cameron1138
Well-Known Member
Finished making my vest, so here are the promised pics:
(I really love the lighting on my face in this, I look so evil lol)
Custom tag I made:
It's not super accurate, but I think it turned out decently well considering it was my first time sewing with a leather-like material. I made it by taking the sleeves off a cheapo $20 pleather jacket from eBay, hemming the armholes shut, cutting up the sleeves to make straps, and adding snaps.
(I really love the lighting on my face in this, I look so evil lol)Custom tag I made:
It's not super accurate, but I think it turned out decently well considering it was my first time sewing with a leather-like material. I made it by taking the sleeves off a cheapo $20 pleather jacket from eBay, hemming the armholes shut, cutting up the sleeves to make straps, and adding snaps.
Freakzter
Active Member
in case anyone is interested in the process of turning plastic containers into utility belt pouches.
first note that i have never painted plastic before. so i assumed it would need primer. i also wanted the end result to have texture to it so it didnt look like smooth plastic. i applied white gesso with a stenciling foam brush and this created the texture i was looking for. unfortunately it also left a lot of small air bubbles.
in the last picture you can see two different methods i used to paint them black. the first one is cheap spray paint. the second one is acrylic paint dabbled on the same way the gesso was. i personally think hand painting it on looked closer to what i had in mind, although it turned out a bit glossier than i wanted. i hope to fix this with a clear matte spray painting finish.
first note that i have never painted plastic before. so i assumed it would need primer. i also wanted the end result to have texture to it so it didnt look like smooth plastic. i applied white gesso with a stenciling foam brush and this created the texture i was looking for. unfortunately it also left a lot of small air bubbles.
in the last picture you can see two different methods i used to paint them black. the first one is cheap spray paint. the second one is acrylic paint dabbled on the same way the gesso was. i personally think hand painting it on looked closer to what i had in mind, although it turned out a bit glossier than i wanted. i hope to fix this with a clear matte spray painting finish.
samurai169
Active Member
I am just taking this chance to add to this thread here are a couple of screen captures that better answer the question of the two different thigh gun holsters but also raises more questions as to source material. The main gun holster is the same through the entire movie the second one is simply a knife sheath attached to the existing plates. If anyone can identify the sheath maker and blade the would also go with that sheath that would be great!!! I believe there is supposed to be two knives the main that is meant for the sheath and then the Gerber mark II sits right behind it. I also thought i would include progress on my gun belt design. As I have said I am trying to go as screen accurate as possible and if people are interested in me starting a run pm me.
Freakzter
Active Member
if you are asking about the knife in the first image, it is a Benchmade 176BK SOCP. also your belt looks AMAZING!!
