Space Marine Primaris Helmet

[Biskt]

Hello Everyone!

It's been a hot minute since I've posted here (actually almost a decade!!)
-allow me to re-introduce myself, I'm Biskt, I went by 'Blackout' back in the day.

I put the prop and model-making stuff mostly on hold when I started university to focus on my studies. I wanted to get a job in the film or videogame industry, and games ended up appealing to me more so digital artwork was/has been my focus for a while now.
Recently however I've been trying to make more time for creative stuff in the physical dimension- (which ironically of course these days can involve a lot of 3D printing and therefore 3D modelling!)

My most recent project is a Warhammer 40k Space Marine helmet which I'm planning to 3D print.

Below are some renders of the model at the moment: it's my take on the Primaris Variant of the helmet.
I wanted to go for a slightly more grounded look, but still maintain some of the proportionality and details that make the original design so Iconic.
I referenced various pieces of art from the codexes and other illustrations as they tend to have proportions I prefer to the more comical shapes of the actual miniatures.

Apologies for the watermarks, I've been advised that unmarked 3D print files and renders often get yoinked and re-sold

Orthos

Front view

Side View

Rear View

Underside

Viewport view

The reference used - I liked the red helmet's proportions the most, so that was a big influence.

And some material renders for fun. I hope I can achieve a similar finish when I build this for real

So yeah, thanks for looking!
I'm currently working on getting all the connections and tolerances figured out so it will be as breezy as possible to assemble when printed.
Assuming I'm satisfied with the quality of the build I'll probably make these files available for purchase if there's any interest.

 

[Biskt]

Reserved (do people still do this?)

 

[neophyl]

That's beautiful work. I for one would potentially be interested in printing one for the collection if you do end up selling the files.
Were you planning on making the model suitable to be wearable ?

 

[Biskt]

That's beautiful work. I for one would potentially be interested in printing one for the collection if you do end up selling the files.
Were you planning on making the model suitable to be wearable ?

Thanks Neophyl!

Depending on exactly what you mean by 'suitable to be wearable,' Yes, I have!
I've been considering the wearability(wearableness?) of the helmet from the get go as I built it to be printed.

There are a few changes I want to make from what's seen above however, like widening the opening and reducing the thickness of the neckseal (the neckseal is an optional part, however, and could be left out or replaced with a foam piece for comfort/flexibility)

Here's some examples of how I've designed the helmet with wearability/assembly in mind:

The lenses are small separate parts with alignment grooves/tabs. You could print these in tinted resin, clip the tabs away and mount a motorcycle visor, or i've even modeled a printable lens vac form buck for if the builder has access to that kind of hardware.

The helmet comes apart in a number of ways. I wanted to somewhat make sense of some of the shapes of the design, what actually is their purpose, etc. I think it lends believably to the design . I thought about adding sockets for magnets but I wouldn't want to force anyone into building this in a certain way.

As i mentioned above, the neck seal is a separate part and could be left out to create more space for a head or magnetized for display.

​

I'd like to include simplified variants of these parts too, the breather/facemask for instance, many people might not want to print the breather and faceplate separately as they will never take it off. Similarly some might have slow printers and just want to print the bare minimum.

 

[neophyl]

Very nice You have your design software mastered that's for sure.

Personally that black section on the back if it was removeable and attached with the afore mentioned magnets or similar you could easily get your head in , even with the neck seal if that was split at the same place into 2 parts. You wouldn't have to widen the neck opening then as the lower back would come off. I've seen other helmets use that technique with success. Just a thought.

I've done a fair bit of fdm printing and looking at how you have it split I think the most difficult bits to print on the entire design will be the ribbed tube sections. If they were separate you could orient the side facing the helmet down so that the support contact areas would be least visible, would make post processing easier.

The more I see it the more I want one lol.

 

[Biskt]

Very nice You have your design software mastered that's for sure.

Personally that black section on the back if it was removeable and attached with the afore mentioned magnets or similar you could easily get your head in , even with the neck seal if that was split at the same place into 2 parts. You wouldn't have to widen the neck opening then as the lower back would come off. I've seen other helmets use that technique with success. Just a thought.

I've done a fair bit of fdm printing and looking at how you have it split I think the most difficult bits to print on the entire design will be the ribbed tube sections. If they were separate you could orient the side facing the helmet down so that the support contact areas would be least visible, would make post processing easier.

The more I see it the more I want one lol.

Thanks again for the kind words!
And I think you'll be pleased to know that the back is removable, and the pipes are separate parts.

For the back plate, it's slightly recessed into the ears as well as the cowl/skull/'main top part.' I might remove the outer lip on the ear so that the back plate can slide out if not secured, as well as offering a sliced version of the neck seal.
For the pipe it was mostly for ease of printing but also that I/others might want to use actual rubber tubing, so at least you have the option. (they also have a bit of tolerance/give to ensure they fit well in their sockets)

The only other things i haven't mentioned is the metallic ear section is made of a few parts to get the negative space/shadow gaps I wanted, however I'll probs make a version that's all stuck together and a bit simpler for anyone who just wants the barebones.

That and the bolts are all separate too. Personally I'd prefer to print a plate of those at higher res, finish them up then glue them in. -Although again I think i'd like to provide a 'simple' version of the main parts in case anyone wants to print this at a smaller scale or just as quickly as possible.

Thanks again for the interest and feedback! It's helpful and much appreciated

 

[neophyl]

More parts the better for me I like to print things in as close to the colour as I can especially silver parts. There's a very nice silk silver I use from MKOEM that I just use straight off the printer. It really shines. Used it for this https://www.printables.com/model/59845-blakes-7-scorpio-clip-gun-blaster and lots of other stuff.

A lot of the stuff I print is used for outdoor lasertag events, so lots of sci fi guns/blasters with electronics in them as well as armour and helmets. We have been known to do the occasional WH40K game so a wearable helmet was ticking lots of boxes, although mainly as it just looks so dam cool.

 

[Biskt]

So i've got most of the tolerances and how parts join together sorted out now. I've split the 'cowl' (top part) into three sections for medium sized printers (like the one I have) which i'm looking to print next.

I printed a few faceplates in the end. The first at the original scale I designed the helmet at, the second I tried printing a little larger when I realised it would have been two small, and I also tried printing it the 'right way up' in an attempt to get a slightly better finish around the lower side of the eyes. However that print failed as it came unattached from the print bed (should have used a raft or better supports,) but I did learn from that print that it would also be too small for me.

The 3rd print came out a good size I think, it's about 110% my original size. I think I like helmets to be as tight as possible, I don't like the bobblehead look with costumes If i can help it, maybe it's my main experience with building Iron man costumes, and it's made a bit harder with this one as the cheeks come in quite tight to get the shape/profiles I wanted.

This one is snug, but fits okay though. I might provide a version of the front with the faceplate, jaw, and jaw tube intakes all merged into one and thinned out as much as possible for both faster printing but also if you've got a wide head like me but want the closest fit possible.

Also printed out the Lenses, they fit great. They aren't held in by friction, but they weren't designed to be, the notches are just for alignment to help with gluing them in.

Next is printing the Cowl/top part. and then probably I'll print one of the 'ears' and check how that comes together, and then the back plate, then finally i'll tinker with the details like the bolts and pipes.

 

[neophyl]

Besides my old Prusa MK3 workhorse I've now got a Neptune 3 max running on Klipper, so size isn't a problem with its 420x420x500 build volume.

I've got an analog of my head modelled up in Blender, so I tend to scale to that to make sure helmets fit. but of course getting a good 'generic' size to start with certainly helps.

btw if you ever need something larger printing lmk, looks like we are both in the UK.

 

[Biskt]

Besides my old Prusa MK3 workhorse I've now got a Neptune 3 max running on Klipper, so size isn't a problem with its 420x420x500 build volume.

I've got an analog of my head modelled up in Blender, so I tend to scale to that to make sure helmets fit. but of course getting a good 'generic' size to start with certainly helps.

btw if you ever need something larger printing lmk, looks like we are both in the UK.

I've got a scan of my noggin too for the same purpose, but it's hard to be sure sometimes. And as for the cowl/top part i'd provide the cut up and solid versions in the files, so anyone could choose based on the hardware available.

Thanks for the offer of assistance with printing larger parts, my first and other printer is actually an ender 5 plus but it just had issue after issue and it put me off the hobby a bit. I actually bought it 3 years ago and started modelling a halo infinite chief suit, but I ran into so many issues and saw how fast and reliable the bambu A1s are that i just took the leap for one of those.
I'm planning to sell the 5 plus I have and what little money I get back from it i'll put towards maintaining the A1 or perhaps one day grabbing an A1 max if they make one

 

[Biskt]

Got the Cowl printed up now! I printed it in 3 parts, which i've designed to go slot together with 'teeth.'

Really happy with how it has come out, nice and smooth, no visible polygons (i hate seeing that in prints, if the printer is doing a big chunk of the work, might as well print as perfect curve as the resolution will allow)

I also got one of the Jaw 'ports' (where the tube goes) printed out, really happy with the tolerance on that, it goes in with a little force and is held in by friction.

I was a little eager and pulled one half of the Cowl off the bed before it had fully cooled, and the base has warped slightly at either end.
Obviously it's not an issue if whoever else might print this has any patience or a larger printer, but still.
For me it's easily fixed with some filler, but i'm gonna be more patient next time, and add more tolerance to where the 'teeth' that join the two halves meet, just in case. (Although I am very happy with how the marts mesh together:

Up next is the ears, backplate, and then finally details!

Thanks for looking

 

[Biskt]

Practicing with sculpting in Blender (I've only used Zbrush professionally, and not for years) -in anticipation for a more heretical version of the helmet.

I love seeing damage/implying the structure below, naturally I went for the 'cool eye scar' damage

If I can combine these parts back together nicely, I might try and print some of these damaged variants as well

 

[Biskt]

Got almost all the main parts printed out now!I used up the ends of a few reels on the ear as i could be present to swap over the reels, so that's why it looks a bitch patchwork!
I'm really happy with how it is to put it together and how it looks! I spent a fair bit of time reworking some of the forms in 3D and i'm glad I did cause I think they hold up well in the real world! I've also just been experimenting with 3d printer resin as a way to finish FDM prints, so far I really like the process, so i'll probably do the same on this once I have it all printed out.

I'm away for a week so won't be able to print any more parts until i'm back, and i did get the other ear printed after I took these photos, and discovered the opening is a little too small for my head, even with the back panel being removable. So i may look at the 3d files and see if I can make some changes there before making the files available online.

​

Shoved a bit of bubble wrap in as padding, so it's sitting a little oddly, but can't wait to get this properly padded and sitting securely!

I did also get the chance to print a few of the details, like the ear cylinders, bolts and the left side tubing.

So yeah. Just gonna figure out how to make the hole a bit wider/split apart better, and then printing out the rest of the details ready for filling/sanding/painting.

 

[Biskt]

Hey all, I got a bit distracted with a new 0.2 nozzle, printing smaller scale stuff, but the 0.4 nozzle is back in now and i've printed new ear frames and a new backplate.
I tweaked the model to make the gap wider, and reworked the neck seal to be much thinner. I expect most would swap this out for a rubber or foam seal for comfort on an actual cosplay. I'll still have to hinge or magnetize the backplate, but other than that it fits quite well.

I also want to make some helmet icons, like a skull, and the ultramarine symbol, and finish the damaged frontplate, but those can wait until the base helmet is done. Chances are i'd like to make a few of these, and I have a bunch of spare parts from the iteration on this one i'd like to cobble those together into a battle damaged one in future.

Next week I should have a chance to start working on sanding and gluing the parts, really really looking forward to getting a coat of primer on this guy!

I'm also prepping the files to put them up on Etsy or something for sale, I'll post here once they're ready and I do!

 

[Biskt]

Spoiler: Edit: Etsy refused to reinstate my account and didn't explain why they took it down, so I'm now selling the files on Gumroad Instead.

Good news! I've finally got around to compressing all the files and setting up an Etsy store, so the helmet model is available there:

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewellery, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

Etsy's file limit is 5 files, and each has to be 20mb or less, I just about managed to squeeze in all the files!
I didn't want to sacrifice the model resolution as I've found it a pain finishing up other printed files with blocky looking 'curved' surfaces.

Gumroad link: Space Marine Cosplay Helmet 3D Files

Figured out how to render a nice turntable of the helmet to use for the listing too:

Mine is currently sitting in the garage, waiting to be glued together and sanded, i've been working on a mk7 halo bucket and that's been using up all my garage time atm.

In other news next on my list is to finish the 'damaged' faceplate version, and I'd like to take a look at making a crest or two for the forehead.
After that, I'd like to try making another helmet, this time maybe a little more _warped_ if you get my meaning

EDIT:

Etsy have just suspended my account and haven't communicated why. My first assumption might be IP, but there's plenty of other space marine helmets on there titled as such so i doubt it's that. Trying to get to the bottom of that/appeal... or I may have to find another place to sell the file.

 

[neophyl]

Roller coaster. Started reading and was like yay, lets head on over to Etsy, then carried on reading and was like #*&@.

 

[Biskt]

Sorry for the delay, I was away last week for my birthday
After 'careful consideration' (an immediate, automated response to my appeal) Etsy have decided not to reinstate my account, so i've made a gumroad account and will be selling the files there!

Here's the link:

Space Marine Cosplay Helmet 3D Files

3D Print files for a Space Marine Helmet(Digital files for printing ONLY)This is a premium 3D model for printing, authored in CAD software and is very high resolution for a beautifully smooth print even on very small nozzles or with resin printing.Files are provided in OBJ formatMy own take on...

bisktdesigns.gumroad.com

If anyone does decide to pick up the files, please do let me know what you think!
I'm always open to feedback, especially if it's something I can implement in whatever my next project is

 

[neophyl]

Hiya Bisket. Haven't really had time for a detailed look but I loaded them into Prusa Slicer (my slicer of choice) and there were a few issues flagged up.
The left and right ear caps have a few open edges (4) but nothing serious. However the tubing on both sides has 9214 non manifold open edges. Where each 'rib' joins the next one along. Looks like it still will slice though so I'm not sure how much its worth worrying about.

The biggest problem though is its kicking up a stink about scale. Most of the parts its saying are in metres and do I want to recalculate in mm. If I say yes and allow it to recalculate, the parts 'look' ok but I can't be sure that there's been anything funky done to the scaling when it does that.

The Full cowl though it says looks like its in inches, if I let it recalculate that to mm it end up being sized for an ant lol. If I say no then it comes in at 7.15mm in X, 8.77mm in Y and 5.29mm in Z. Maybe big enough for an actual minifig.
Blender basically has the same issue if I load them into it. The full cowl is showing as x=0.282mm y=0.345mm and z=0.208mm in size. Same with the rest of the parts. So I think scaling up by 1000 should put the scale to what it should be. Should the full cowl be 282mm across in X ?

 

[Biskt]

Hiya Bisket. Haven't really had time for a detailed look but I loaded them into Prusa Slicer (my slicer of choice) and there were a few issues flagged up.
The left and right ear caps have a few open edges (4) but nothing serious. However the tubing on both sides has 9214 non manifold open edges. Where each 'rib' joins the next one along. Looks like it still will slice though so I'm not sure how much its worth worrying about.

The biggest problem though is its kicking up a stink about scale. Most of the parts its saying are in metres and do I want to recalculate in mm. If I say yes and allow it to recalculate, the parts 'look' ok but I can't be sure that there's been anything funky done to the scaling when it does that.

The Full cowl though it says looks like its in inches, if I let it recalculate that to mm it end up being sized for an ant lol. If I say no then it comes in at 7.15mm in X, 8.77mm in Y and 5.29mm in Z. Maybe big enough for an actual minifig.
Blender basically has the same issue if I load them into it. The full cowl is showing as x=0.282mm y=0.345mm and z=0.208mm in size. Same with the rest of the parts. So I think scaling up by 1000 should put the scale to what it should be. Should the full cowl be 282mm across in X ?

Hey Neophyl, sorry for the delay in response, and thanks for picking up the model, I hope once you do get to printing it you enjoy the design

The non-manifold edges i've ignored as in my experience unless the model is actually badly built it will print just fine. These are all most likely two open edges on-top of one another which won't make a difference to most slicers as fundamentally they're just taking many cross sections of a model, and as long as there isn't a hole or overlapping polygon you'll get a clean layer. I can fix that however for peace of mind and update the files.

As for the scale, it is 'to scale' (as in, I've modelled it based on the print fitting my head with no re-scaling) but may be a decimal point or two off depending on what software you are using.
What I mean is that the modelling software i'm using appears to export it's objects scaled down to a factor of 0.001 (so try scaling it up by 100000%)

I have scale issues with OBJ model format all the time (I work in games) which is why we tend to use FBX format at work, but i decided to provide OBJs as that's what most slicing software can work with.

I'll repair the files, change the scale and reupload, however in the meantime if you want to start printing you can simply scale the parts up by 100000%, and as for worries with non-manifold edges when printing, I sliced my parts in bambu studio and as you can see from the pics posted previously, they printed just fine

 

[teragon]

Thing of beauty! I coud not resist. Will launch the printer horde tomorrow.