Thanks! I’m still learning as I go. Lots of experimenting with different types of bulbs (ones that came with the soft boxes vs. household LEDs) and the camera settings on my phone.
Probe Droid Pod (232 version) *Updated 2/4*
- Thread starter Boxcar Bret
- Start date
What about weathering of the piece also. While the base color can be bright, it can change a lot after some “washes” & stuff… add to that the lighting g…. Who knows!
It was time for post-weathering. Post-weathering is a term I've coined for the process of aging the model to it's current, unrestored state in the archives. The dust and wear and tear of post-production life.
My medium of choice for weathering is oil paints. I love the control and forgivable properties of them as well as having the ability to create a sense of depth by building up layers of color. I also like the speed in which I can create an effect, give it a blast with a hairdryer and move on. It should be noted that I never use a clear coat on my models prior to using oils for two reasons. The first being I hate clear coats. They're gross. They add another layer that takes away the detail and they're a pain in the ass for me to spray. Inevitably dust or something sticks to it before it cures. The second reason is you really don't need a clear if you're not slathering on the paint like Van Gogh. The acrylic paint, fully cured, is very resilient and I have yet to not recover from any mistake that can't be erased with a brush and Turpenoid.
By no means am I an expert. There are tons of great videos out there if you want to learn how the pros do it.
The splattering effects were achieved by flicking different colors of diluted to different consistencies and flicking it with a pointed paint brush and a paint stirrer. This is where self control really comes into play.
The final step in my post-weathering is to break off the parts missing from the actual filming model and recreating the damage. After weeks of work this is always satisfying in a punk rock sort of way.
The damage is done. The model is finished. It's time to paint the base and take some proper photos.
My medium of choice for weathering is oil paints. I love the control and forgivable properties of them as well as having the ability to create a sense of depth by building up layers of color. I also like the speed in which I can create an effect, give it a blast with a hairdryer and move on. It should be noted that I never use a clear coat on my models prior to using oils for two reasons. The first being I hate clear coats. They're gross. They add another layer that takes away the detail and they're a pain in the ass for me to spray. Inevitably dust or something sticks to it before it cures. The second reason is you really don't need a clear if you're not slathering on the paint like Van Gogh. The acrylic paint, fully cured, is very resilient and I have yet to not recover from any mistake that can't be erased with a brush and Turpenoid.
By no means am I an expert. There are tons of great videos out there if you want to learn how the pros do it.
The splattering effects were achieved by flicking different colors of diluted to different consistencies and flicking it with a pointed paint brush and a paint stirrer. This is where self control really comes into play.
The final step in my post-weathering is to break off the parts missing from the actual filming model and recreating the damage. After weeks of work this is always satisfying in a punk rock sort of way.
The damage is done. The model is finished. It's time to paint the base and take some proper photos.
Attachments
Beautiful work, that weathering is incredible!
